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Discussion Starter #1
Was driving down the highway last Friday and my CEL started blinking. Car went into limp mode. Prior to this, car was driving fine, no issues. Had it towed to dealer and it showed a misfire code, I think they said 4th cylinder. They said the VPS switch was causing the misfire, and I had a valve that was staying open. Replaced VPS switch and then call to tell me I have a spool valve (front bank rocker??) bad which is causing the valve issue and oil is going where it shouldn't. I can't get anyone to tell me why this is happening on such a new vehicle, and I'm concerned if I don't know the root cause it will keep happening. My husband is deployed, I don't know too much about cars or all the different names for these parts and I feel like I'm paying a lot for parts and labor with no real answers. Any guidance is appreciated. Mileage is around 54k.
 

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Oh man, you’re being charged for this? Shouldn’t you still be under the 5 year, 60k miles warranty?

I’m not familiar with failing switches or spool valves. My worry here is that this may be caused by Honda’s VCM system (variable cylinder management). Your van has a feature that turns cylinders off to increase gas mileage in certain situations. Cylinder 4 is one of those. The problem with this system is that the piston rings can align and get stuck. Piston rings are what keep the oil down below and out of the top end of the cylinder. Oil can get past the rings if they are aligned, causing oil to foul the spark plug and cause misfires.

Ask the dealership if the spark plug on #4 was fouled. Also ask why your powertrain warranty isn’t covering these repairs. This shouldn’t cost you a dime IMO. Hopefully the dealership is making a correct diagnosis. Your 2016 would be the first I’ve read about having the problem I’ve described.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I asked about the warranty because I thought so too, and of course my husband is livid wondering what the warranty does cover if this isn't. The lady I speak with on the phone tells me she looks up the parts to determine warranty coverage and none of these fall under it, only powertrain and drivability. But isn't this a drivability issue?! I have been pouring over tons of posts, I wasn't sure if my 2016 had the VCM or not since the extended warranty for that issue only extended through 2013 or 14 from what I could tell?
So I guess I probably need to get a muzzler. Normally I would have my husband do it but since he isn't here... is this something the dealer does? Where do I get the muzzler?
 

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I’d open a case with Honda customer care to try and get these costs covered. Maybe somebody can correct me if I’m wrong on if misfires are truly a drivetrain issue...

The class action settlement applied only to 2011-2013 Odysseys as that’s what was involved at the time. Unfortunately this is continuing to rear its ugly head for newer models. It’ll take another class action lawsuit to get newer models covered. I wish I knew for sure if this was the cause for your issue because if it is the dealership is just throwing unnecessary parts at the van and charging you for it.

If it is a stuck piston ring issue, unfortunately for the service center the fix is new piston rings to the tune of several thousand dollars. I’m sure they’ll say that’s not a drivetrain issue either lol.

Dealerships won’t install a muzzler. It’s an unofficial modification that they would likely use as an excuse to void your warranty. You’ll want to purchase and install it yourself when this is said and done. No tools are required for the simpler ones (VCMuzzler, VCM Tuner, etc). You unplug a sensor following the included directions and you plug the muzzler in line with the sensor. As long as you don’t tug on the wires vs the connector, this is something you should be able to do on your own :D
 

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I’m went back and reread the powertrain warranty for grins and giggles (and because I have a 2017). It says it covers the head of the engine with all internal parts, intake manifold, etc. I’d get with the service manager immediately and play the deployed husband card. I’m livid for you lol.
 

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Get this resolved first, then we'll talk about a Muzzle. As per the above, easy to do and it will help the vehicle in many ways (this being one of them!).

I love their selective choice of when a warranty applies; unreal.

Don't pay for anything, get this all in writing and call Honda North America and tell them what's up and that your husband is deployed and maybe they'll be kind and do the right thing. Arrghh!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok guys, so when I call Honda I tell them what the dealership is saying and what is being done, and inquire why it isn't covered by warranty or if it should be? Or what would be the best approach? I apologize for my ignorance on this, I've never had to do anything like this and surely didn't think I would with such a newer model of vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm on the phone with North American Honda now.. they're saying not covered either. She's asking "what exactly do you want from North American Honda at this point?" 🤔
 

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No need to apologize, this is incredibly stressful. Get them up to speed with what’s going on. It’s your understanding that you are covered by a powertrain warranty but the dealership says they won’t cover the parts. The powertrain warranty clearly states it covers the engine, the head (and all interval parts), so why isn’t the service center billing this service on internal parts to warranty?

Edit; what you want from them is to open a case and determine why these internal parts in the drive train aren’t being covered under warranty under the terms they set forth. Internal parts in the engine are failing, why aren’t they covered under the terms? That person you’re speaking to doesn’t make the final call, somebody else does. Force them to open a case.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I opened a case. She said it would be reviewed internally and there would be no communication back to me unless a warranty extension or recall was issued. Does that sound right?
My biggest concern, although I definitely don't want to pay money out of pocket, is that this is the car I drive my children in and no one can tell me why it happened, in my opinion very prematurely? So is it going to happen again or is there a risk my car could catch fire?
I think it's also noteworthy I had my oil changed and new tires put on at a Firestone 2 days before this. Prior to this, I'd had no problems except noticing the juddering or rpm hesitation intermittently. Could something done at Firestone have been a catalyst for these issues do you think? I just don't know enough about any of it.
 

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It sounds like they aren’t doing anything for you. It looks like they believe you are out of warranty too. If they get enough complaints like yours, perhaps they’ll decide to extend the warranty to the parts they don’t want to cover for you or issue a recall (recall not likely). Your problem was noted: now go pound sand.

I’ll have to wait for others with more experience to chime in. I’m still confused how the powertrain (engine) isn’t covered by the powertrain warranty.

I don’t think the work Firestone did would cause these issues. An oil change shouldn’t cause a switch and spool valve to fail (if done correctly anyway).
 

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Do you know what the Check Engine code was? On reading misfire I may have cried wolf too early on VCM. I was doing a little research on it and found a similar issue over at the Pilot forum. It sounds like if you may have had a p3400 code, the dealer replaced the VPS switch as it may have failed and caused your van to run on limited cylinders.

This forum also suggested to check the oil level. They said low oil could trigger the P3400 code too. Without ruling out Firestone just yet, can the dealership verify that the oil level is correct in your van?

Still not sure what the spool valve has to do with anything yet. I wonder if cylinder 4 shows fouling.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just talked with them as I hadn't asked the actual codes..the first, for the VPS switch, was p0304. And then the spool valve one was p3497.
 

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A couple of comments in this video say that the code threw right after an oil change just like yours did...
I know this thread is about an older model but John Clark, who is full of Odyssey knowledge, mentions the use of a crappy oil filter as being a problem and it is a coincidence that you just had Firestone change the oil, and they probably don't use a quality filter. My guess is that a clearing of the trouble codes with a Honda oil and filter change may get you back up to speed...
Also what part of the country are you located in so maybe we can help you with a referral...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I just called the dealership back that has the vehicle in service and asked them to go ahead and change the oil and filter..she said there is an aftermarket filter on there so like you said, maybe that's something?
 

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I just called the dealership back that has the vehicle in service and asked them to go ahead and change the oil and filter..she said there is an aftermarket filter on there so like you said, maybe that's something?
Yes, and it's the cheapest way to start out and may possibly be the root cause. Can't hurt to change the oil and filter at this point with OEM.
And thank your husband for serving, my son is USMC vet.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thank you, and thank your son as well. You must be very proud.

Thanks for all the responses. They tell me I should be able to pick up the van tomorrow so I'll update then. I will probably also be back with questions about the muzzler.
 

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Wow, a crappy filter could potentially cause all these issues?!?! Noted! I sure hope this turns out to be the case, easy fix and I'll be sure to ask what filters I should buy before my next oil change.

Once this is done, error codes reset and you're back up and running THEN we'll talk Muzzles. Search on VCMTuner II and S-VCM and here (and on the Interwebs) and you'll find some details. Basically, it allows your engine to run on all six cylinders all the time; novel I know! What happens now is the ECO-mode kicks in and out which shuts off half of the cylinders, slightly better gas mileage but it stresses the motor mounts, the transmission and it "can" put more wear and tear on those shut down cylinders. Some have run 200k+ miles with VCM/ECO on, others have had major troubles (engine rebuilds, etc.). To me it's not worth 0.5 mpg more if it's potentially going to wreck our very expensive vehicle, one S-VCM later and our judder/shutter/clunky shifting is gone, well plus a transmission fluid swap. And this is something you should consider doing as well as the transmissions need extra love. The fluid swap is easy as heck DIY but you may just have to take it to a dealer and pay the price but this too is critical to protect your Odyssey (long term).

Good luck and keep us in the loop!
 

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I had been looking into the juddering and fluid swap as I have been noticing that when I accelerate, my Rpms have that sort of hesitation or stutter. I thought for sure when my CEL started blinking that my transmission must be going out. I was hesitant to do the fluid drain because I've had lots of people tell me they NEVER do a fluid drain and swap because once you do, you're almost guaranteed to need a new transmission sooner than later?? But I've read on here and it seems like most do it and are supporters of it?
One more question... as far as the computer codes being reset..is this something the dealer should automatically be doing since they are fixing my vehicle for the codes showing, or is it something I need to ask them to do? 🤷‍♀️ still learning
 
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