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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Everyone,

I have a 16 EX-L that has about 52k on it now. I bought it with 29k. I noticed after a trip back from Florida (45kish) that around 35-42mph and 1800(ish) RPM's that the van would vibrate. Felt like VCM was kicking in and out, or was right in the middle of a shift point. It's hard to explain, but definitely felt drive train related.

We were due for a oil change this weekend, so I made a note with the dealership to check "vibration around 35-42mph and 1800rpm". I fully expected them to say something like "we could not recreate the problem yadayada" but to my surprise when I picked it up, they said there was a TSB out on it, and they updated the software, and 3x drain and fills.

I will report back after a week! Just thought I'd share my experience in case anyone else is having the same vibration.
 

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I can't help but think that Honda, after being sued and tearing apart engines to replace piston rings would be nothing but ecstatic. The truth is, the first simple ones were so easy to take off, that folks would just do that before taking their vans in. Several folks have said they forgot and the dealer never said a word. If one is taking it in for regular service and not warranty work, the least trained person is going to be changing the oil and not looking over the whole van.
Unless Honda gets sued again, the 2014+ vans have no warranty extension.

Now the latest ones, that self adjust, need a wire run to the battery and are a little more obvious. And more involved to remove for service. Our resident mechanic, John Clark, likes the new one:


That reports the actual temp when idling for a given amount of time or in an overheat situation (pretty rare in a Honda)

The SVCM is the other one that self adjusts:


and also requires a wire to the battery. It also takes itself out of the loop if the engine gets hot and shows an increased reading at the gauge. (the temp gauge in any modern vehicle is never actual)

Verbatim's VCMuzzler has a variable resister that you can adjust.

The others, while much cheaper, are either fixed or come with different resisters to exchange.

The fixed ones can be just fine if you live and travel in similar climates. If you change climates while traveling, or live in a wide ranging temperature place, then the auto adjust ones are better.

All need to be added or removed on a cold engine only!
 

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Get a VCM Tuner II or S-VCM and just remove them before any dealer servicing; they'll never know.

The Muzzler lets your engine run on all six cylinders, all the time; a novel approach to engines! ;)

If removal is a real issue, I would get the Tuner II since you have to run a power lead to the S-VCM (save one minor step). My S-VCM has never been removed since installation, but no dealer servicing either (and it's been installed since last June IIRC).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I can't help but think that Honda, after being sued and tearing apart engines to replace piston rings would be nothing but ecstatic. The truth is, the first simple ones were so easy to take off, that folks would just do that before taking their vans in. Several folks have said they forgot and the dealer never said a word. If one is taking it in for regular service and not warranty work, the least trained person is going to be changing the oil and not looking over the whole van.
Unless Honda gets sued again, the 2014+ vans have no warranty extension.

Now the latest ones, that self adjust, need a wire run to the battery and are a little more obvious. And more involved to remove for service. Our resident mechanic, John Clark, likes the new one:


That reports the actual temp when idling for a given amount of time or in an overheat situation (pretty rare in a Honda)

The SVCM is the other one that self adjusts:


and also requires a wire to the battery. It also takes itself out of the loop if the engine gets hot and shows an increased reading at the gauge. (the temp gauge in any modern vehicle is never actual)

Verbatim's VCMuzzler has a variable resister that you can adjust.

The others, while much cheaper, are either fixed or come with different resisters to exchange.

The fixed ones can be just fine if you live and travel in similar climates. If you change climates while traveling, or live in a wide ranging temperature place, then the auto adjust ones are better.

All need to be added or removed on a cold engine only!
Thanks for Taking the time to write that up, Its a tough call, We drive from Ohio to warmer climates fairly often, but I like the idea of being able to remove it quick, so VCM muzzler with the correct resistor might be the way to go! Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Get a VCM Tuner II or S-VCM and just remove them before any dealer servicing; they'll never know.

The Muzzler lets your engine run on all six cylinders, all the time; a novel approach to engines! ;)

If removal is a real issue, I would get the Tuner II since you have to run a power lead to the S-VCM (save one minor step). My S-VCM has never been removed since installation, but no dealer servicing either (and it's been installed since last June IIRC).
Thanks Andrew, I think I will looking into the TunerII just for ease of removal. We have 4-6 more years of warranty I think
 

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There may be a loss in mileage in local, start stop driving; maybe? I'm not sure, we muzzled our '16 EXL so quickly I didn't really clock it. But compared to our '02 EXL it gets better mileage in that environment anyway.

On the highway we see the opposite, I don't understand why completely but we're pulling better gas mileage on the highway with the Muzzler installed. We have a family trip loop we do, in and out of two towns and 90+ miles of 65-70 mph driving and we routinely pull 30 mpg (loaded, five people). I've gotten as high as 31.7 mpg indicated. Now how "accurate" is Honda's computer in comparison to reality? When I've spot checked it it's been pretty darned close, sometimes it's be off in the other direction but usually within 1 mpg. I can only do these "test runs" and comparisons when I'm running solo (without the spousual unit) because "...we need to stop so I can geek out" isn't a good enough reason. ;)

I did a write up on this a few months ago, since I have an S-VCM Custom I can engage/disengage the Muzzle in the cockpit while driving. So I did and have done so since with the same results, I turn on ECO mode and we watch the gas mileage numbers drop and drop and drop.

Good luck!
 

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Basic VCMuzzler from @verbatim. You can p.m. him. I think he sells a much more advanced version now along with most others. They report a true temperature to the gauge in the IP but they are a little bit harder to install. I may not be the best person to ask, so if anyone else wants to chime in please do so.

Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Basic VCMuzzler from @verbatim. You can p.m. him. I think he sells a much more advanced version now along with most others. They report a true temperature to the gauge in the IP but they are a little bit harder to install. I may not be the best person to ask, so if anyone else wants to chime in please do so.

Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
Thanks man, appreciate the response. There is so much info on this site regarding the muzzlers, its easy to get lost.
 

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Hey Everyone,

I have a 16 EX-L that has about 52k on it now. I bought it with 29k. I noticed after a trip back from Florida (45kish) that around 35-42mph and 1800(ish) RPM's that the van would vibrate. Felt like VCM was kicking in and out, or was right in the middle of a shift point. It's hard to explain, but definitely felt drive train related.

We were due for a oil change this weekend, so I made a note with the dealership to check "vibration around 35-42mph and 1800rpm". I fully expected them to say something like "we could not recreate the problem yadayada" but to my surprise when I picked it up, they said there was a TSB out on it, and they updated the software, and 3x drain and fills.

I will report back after a week! Just thought I'd share my experience in case anyone else is having the same vibration.
I just had the same service performed on my ‘`6 Ody Touring Elite, 62,000miles. Dealer did it b/c of service bulletin and to address a hesitation problem that has developed whenever I accelerate normally. I couldn’t make the connection between to two and still can’t but the hesitation is gone. For how long, we’ll see. Forever I’m hoping. Anyway, if anyone can explain how the two are related, please post it. (Maybe the hesitation was actually the tranny slipping?)
 

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Just note: at 62,000 miles, you should have had two normal drain & fills by now. The service interval is 30k or every 4th oil change using the oil life service required codes. Trans fluid change is sub code 3.

I experienced the trans issue as more of a hunting for the right gear. Because the upper gears lock the torque converter, the software addresses how the lock up clutch works. Since the software, I find the trans will stay in a gear longer and the shifts seem firmer. (this is probably a perception of the torque converter locking up)

The VCM also is going in & out as well. Disabling it is another way to smooth out the driving experience.
 

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Dealer did it b/c of service bulletin and to address a hesitation problem that has developed whenever I accelerate normally. I couldn’t make the connection between to two and still can’t but the hesitation is gone. For how long, we’ll see. Forever I’m hoping. Anyway, if anyone can explain how the two are related, please post it.
The hesitation you were feeling was the torque converter attempting to lock, then unlocking, then attempting to lock, about every half second. So, this forces the engine RPM up and down a few hundred RPM which is felt as a surging/hesitation. The 6-speed transmission can lock the torque converter in every gear from 2nd to 6th, and the surging is most noticeable in 2-4th gears. The medium throttle aspect of the problem happens because at very light throttle openings, the torque converter can lock without problem and and high throttle openings, the torque converter stays unlocked. At medium throttle is where it has problems - locking is attempted but not achieved.

-Charlie
 
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