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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I want to see if anyone has experienced this issue...

First -- Not a tire balance issue..

When accelerating through 25 mph and 30 mph my 2018 Elite starts shaking. It's coming from the front end. The dealership thought it was the Throttle body and they cleaned it but it's still shaking...

Martin
 

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I have noticed it sometimes, seems to be the case when it’s in higher gear and low rpm. Dealer here in Canada wanted to charge me $100 for diagnostic fee so I didn’t get them to look into it. It doesn’t happen consistently.


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I am not sure if same as mine. it vibrates and loud hums (I hear the humming because my noise cancellation is disable) - I can duplicate when coasting around 1800 - 2000 rpm gear does not matter. it goes away when apply gas or shift gear.
 

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I believe what you are feeling is the VCM activating. Push the throttle a little and all cylinders will activate and it should disappear when that happens. When the cylinders unload I think you are feeling the vibration from that.


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It’s a complaint I’ve seen come up on here a number of times. My wife and I found there was a noise that sounded like we were driving over rumble strips, at around the same speed. Took it to the dealer and on their first or second attempt they fixed it. The vibration is still felt though, even though I haven’t heard the noise for a period of time now.


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Martin when you went to the dealership, what were their progonosis on
  • front caster numbers?
  • active engine mount?
  • All open TSBs?
 

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It’s a complaint I’ve seen come up on here a number of times. My wife and I found there was a noise that sounded like we were driving over rumble strips, at around the same speed. Took it to the dealer and on their first or second attempt they fixed it. The vibration is still felt though, even though I haven’t heard the noise for a period of time now.


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any record of what was done to fix humming? thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #10
This issue is a "Shudder" / Vibration that feels like it's coming from the transmission. The "Hum" was an annoying issue that happens around 1500 RPM's. I was one of the first to really push a fix for the "Hum" that was finally diag'd as a bad Active Noise Cancellation system (They made a TSB for that... and my dealership never notified me.. )

The Shudder feels like I'm going over bumps in the road. It starts building at 25 MPH and gets stronger and stronger till I hit 30 MPH than it goes away. Its stops if I let off the gas while it's happening. It happens most of the time but always. The biggest thing is that this is NOT a normal thing. Honda first said it was the Throttle Body.. They cleaned it and it still didnt fix the issue... Now they are saying its becuase the car is switching from 3 cylinders to 6 and than back again..

I'm at a loss.. The dealership can't fix it..
 

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This issue is a "Shudder" / Vibration that feels like it's coming from the transmission. The "Hum" was an annoying issue that happens around 1500 RPM's. I was one of the first to really push a fix for the "Hum" that was finally diag'd as a bad Active Noise Cancellation system (They made a TSB for that... and my dealership never notified me.. )

The Shudder feels like I'm going over bumps in the road. It starts building at 25 MPH and gets stronger and stronger till I hit 30 MPH than it goes away. Its stops if I let off the gas while it's happening. It happens most of the time but always. The biggest thing is that this is NOT a normal thing. Honda first said it was the Throttle Body.. They cleaned it and it still didnt fix the issue... Now they are saying its becuase the car is switching from 3 cylinders to 6 and than back again..

I'm at a loss.. The dealership can't fix it..
What the guy said above, VCM (Variable Cylinder Management).

Did they say it’s an issue or normal?


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Discussion Starter #12
@Pjones you mean humming while VCM is activated (how annoying)? is it on every Ody or just some? I didn't experience it in my 2009.
It's not. The shudder is bad. This also kicked off right after the Transmission Service. I didn't put it together because I thought it was a tire balance issue.
 

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Hi there. I have first hand experience of your problem. I've had both the Honda Accord 2.0 Automatic and still currently own a 2.4 Executive Automatic. The problem to which you refer is under very light load, immediately before a change up into 3rd gear, more often on a level road surface. The problem is old, broken down Automatic Transmission FLUID, and the lack of a downward-facing oil plug for drainage purposes like an engine oil sump pan has. Only god knows why auto transmissions do not have a drain plug on the bottom face of the case. I suppose it could stem back before the days of use of a dipstick, when filling of the transmission case was done via a side plug, until oil drips out, before re-assembling the plug. The problem for most is that the standard procedure Honda use for changing the ATF is to not change the entire oil contents of the transmission to get the very last remnants of the old stuff out before putting the new stuff in. Therefore one single ATF change results in an improvement, as in both my cases, but not a complete cure. All I can suggest is that you change as much of the old stuff out as you can by temporarily changing the ATF much more frequently - like the same time as the engine oil is changed, or in my case, do the job yourself and do it even more frequently than that - until the Honda silky-smoothness returns! Obviously you must run the car for at least a couple hundred miles in between changes in order to sufficiently mix the new stuff up with the remaining old stuff each time. After 3 or 4 times, you will end up having replaced such a high percentage of the old ATF that the transmission begins to work perfectly smoothly once again. Obviously expensive if you get Honda to do this for you, but I'm just highlighting the problem as this has worked on both my cars. It's actually not that expensive if you can do it yourself, but fiddly for a DIY job. Accessing the drain plug: Lift only under the centre cross member (arrowed), but lower the car BACK TO THE GROUND (even better on a (slightly!) forwards downhill) to perform the actual draining, once the plug has been slackened off a bit first. To replace the engine guard cover, take one plastic pushpin from it, measure it up, and then buy loads of them cheap on ebay first!, as old ones are brittle and break when you remove them. Remove those easily using narrow end-cutter pliers that you might have to grind down to fit perfectly - or a flat blade screwdriver. Soooooo much easier once you've done it twice before! This procedure does eventually cure the shaking problem, but you're in it for the long haul on time, money and effort, depending on each individual's circumstances. Or just make ATF maintenance a more frequent, thorough and longer term consideration. Perfectly clean ATF should last about 10 years or so between changes... Hope that helps!

NB:
The 2.0 was a 16 year old with 82,000 miles up, and that was its first ever change - and was almost 100% perfectly smooth after one Honda change, but 100% smooth after just one more - done by myself about 1,000 miles later.
The 2.4 was at the time 11 years old, but only 39,000 miles up, one old-age owner from new. Perhaps it needed thrashing a lot more! However, that one required 4 changes - by myself - I used the Honda ATF from Honda, and checked that it was the exact same ATF they used for the 2.0 service they performed just a few weeks earlier. Change interval on the 2.4 was just a few hundred miles between each change. That was 2 years ago now - and it's still running Honda perfect!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi iPedro,

The unfortunate thing is that with the new 10 Speed Transmission it's next impossible to check or change the fluid without going in for service. I cant even check to see the trans fluid level. I had a transmission service done and I think they used the wrong fluid.
 

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I also suspect a change in ATF specifications for greener fluid requirements as time goes by in these crazy, nonsensical ozone, environment bothering times. I feel sure it's not as good as it used to be, too! ATF is only mineral oil, and as it's in shorter supply (because oil lasts longer in a transmission) than run-of-the-mill engine oil, it's over twice the price. In light of manufacturer's keen loyal cartel of sponsors, I wouldn't mind trying the use of fully synthetic, top quality engine oil for use in an AT. Don't treat this as gospel as I don't want to be responsible for causing the destruction of your AT, but even though I'm a perfectionist and only a home DIY mechanic, I don't buy all this critical use of Honda part ATF - Honda hasn't made it anyway - it's probably someone like Castrol! Check out the YouTube videos on proper mechanics who've done loads of AT changes using top quality fully synth ENGINE oil, over long term testing. There are quite a few! It doesn't sound like they're either lying or even reckless. Mineral oil is just slippery stuff, like engine oil. How does the AT know you're not using a Honda-labelled slippery product? A Honda AT is only made out of the same steel belts and orbital gears as any other AT, is it not? For an older vehicle, I'd definitely try it out, but please don't take my word for it. I have never tried anything other than OE spec.
 

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I also suspect a change in ATF specifications for greener fluid requirements as time goes by in these crazy, nonsensical ozone, environment bothering times. I feel sure it's not as good as it used to be, too! ATF is only mineral oil, and as it's in shorter supply (because oil lasts longer in a transmission) than run-of-the-mill engine oil, it's over twice the price. In light of manufacturer's keen loyal cartel of sponsors, I wouldn't mind trying the use of fully synthetic, top quality engine oil for use in an AT. Don't treat this as gospel as I don't want to be responsible for causing the destruction of your AT, but even though I'm a perfectionist and only a home DIY mechanic, I don't buy all this critical use of Honda part ATF - Honda hasn't made it anyway - it's probably someone like Castrol! Check out the YouTube videos on proper mechanics who've done loads of AT changes using top quality fully synth ENGINE oil, over long term testing. There are quite a few! It doesn't sound like they're either lying or even reckless. Mineral oil is just slippery stuff, like engine oil. How does the AT know you're not using a Honda-labelled slippery product? A Honda AT is only made out of the same steel belts and orbital gears as any other AT, is it not? For an older vehicle, I'd definitely try it out, but please don't take my word for it. I have never tried anything other than OE spec.
If it was better for the transmission why wouldn’t they use it from the factory? They have people that specialize in oil design this stuff. Surly they have consulted with them through the design process one would hope.


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Now they are saying its because the car is switching from 3 cylinders to 6 and then back again.
I thought the VCM only kicked in at higher speeds like those used on the highway, not in-town speeds. I'm unsure of my facts on this. Maybe they changed that?

Martin, is your van still under warranty? Before trying all kinds of home remedies, I would persevere with the dealer over this. It's their problem. I always thought that changing the ATF on these vans required the correct temperature and a pumping system that completely purges the old out while being replaced with new. Dealerships have been doing it this way for years now. Someone also mentioned placing the van in maintenance mode before attempting this procedure? Just my thoughts :).
 

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This was my front end issue.


Had to have the front subframe replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I thought the VCM only kicked in at higher speeds like those used on the highway, not in-town speeds. I'm unsure of my facts on this. Maybe they changed that?

Martin, is your van still under warranty? Before trying all kinds of home remedies, I would persevere with the dealer over this. It's their problem. I always thought that changing the ATF on these vans required the correct temperature and a pumping system that completely purges the old out while being replaced with new. Dealerships have been doing it this way for years now. Someone also mentioned placing the van in maintenance mode before attempting this procedure? Just my thoughts :).
I thought that was the case also. The shudder comes during acceleration. Also, I thought the VCM kicked in when cruising. The biggest problem I have is that the issue is intermittent. I can't seem to figure out exactly whats causing it to start and why sometimes doesn't do it at all.. From the engine read out it shows the VCM kicking in and they say thats perfectly normal. My Van didnt do this before the Transmission service..
 
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