Ok here are the steps followed to replace tailgate control module:

1) Remove the B18 fuse ( called backup) under hood
2) Remove the rear trim panel and driver rear side panel, some of those instructions are here, only steps 4 and 7 are needed:
http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/A20-012.PDF
3) Control module is located on the top of rear fuse box :

4) Disconnect the three cables attached to control module
5) Use number 10 socket to remove control module mounted on top of rear fuse box
6) Install the new one and attach the three cables back
7) Install the removed trim panel back and side ones
8) Insert the B18 fuse
9) Press the tailgate button located under the rear camera


** B18 fuse will reset the control module, try this first before replacing the control module.

 

Ok here are the steps followed to replace tailgate control module:

1) Remove the B18 fuse ( called backup) under hood
...

This is very helpful. I'm having the same issue. What does the B18 fuse control? Since it's the dead of winter here, I'm thinking about pulling the fuse and using the car normally, except the tailgate. Would like to wait until it gets warmer, then actually fix it and seal it.

 

If you find that it’s due to a leak in rear driver side area (like I did) would be helpful to record the issue. It seems like a common problem that can be traced to manufacturing failure. Here’s a link: Report a Safety Problem | NHTSA

 

Our 2018 control module had the same control module issue due to what appeared to be water damage

 

Is it possible the fuse to remove is called A18 not B18 - as it seems to be in Engine Compartment Fuse Box A? Please confirm.

 

Look for you car book and locate fuse diagram. The diagram is also on the case of the fuse box located in the hood of the car. Fuse # 18 is the one you want (also called Back Up). It is a 10 amps fuse. Mine was red. Hope this helps.

 

What happens if you do not remove this fuse first? I replaced my power tailgate module without pulling the fuse first. Checked fuses and none are blown but my power tailgate still will not work. Replaced control module because there was visible water damage. Anything else I need to replace with it I didn’t do?

 

Hi,

I'll need to replace the PTG module as well. Could you share how you went about removing the rear qarter panel? The link above from the discussion starter did not work. Thanks.

Dan

 

Search for the 2014 service manual, the link has been posted here many times. It should guide you on how to remove those panels.

 

Hi everyone I got 2021 odyssey and been in rear accident and I had the tailgate motor replaced but it doesn’t work .. it need reprogramming or other tricks.?

 

Sorry if this is a repeat post. Didn't see my first one after I hit submit. I am in the process of doing the same thing as you. Did you find a solution for your issue?

 

@elrashidy999
Call your Insurance company and tell them that after receiving the ODY back from body shop that the rear tailgate motor was replaced however the tailgate does not open (does it open manually?) The body shop should have verified it's operation before releasing it. However, if your ODY was left outside and it rained... You may have to replace the tailgate control module due to it getting wet and possibly shorting out on the solder side of it's card.

 

My tailgate just started doing this after some rain. It looks like the seal along the tailgate window rail is cracked all the way across and is probably letting in water. It's 55,000 miles on a 2019 odyssey EXL. Seems like a manufacturing issue. Anybody know if Honda is repairing these or has any TSBs or anything? Seems like we shouldn't be stuck with dead tailgates just a few years old.

 

Any luck ? I have the same issue

 

@UsedToBeCoolTX
No known TSB's on this. I agree 1000% that Honda should be replacing any circuit card that get's wet. They should be applying conformal coating on these PCB's.

 

PLEASE report this to the NHTSB so that we can get a recall done.

 

Had the same issue occur yesterday, Honda Odyssey 2018 EX-L .. have submitted a report to the NHTSA

 

Just swinging by to report that my 2018 EX-L is suffering from this problem as well. The tailgate beeped incessantly for my entire drive this morning, both inside and outside the van (embarrassing). When I brought it in to service the battery died in the service lane and it had to be jump-started. The tech wrote that they found evidence of water intrusion and damage to the control module.

Not interested in paying the exorbitant costs reported on this forum. I told them I'd fix it myself. Ordered a new module from Majestic, just under $200 shipped ($270 MSRP). Thanks to @johny for the instructions above, looks pretty simple.

Thankfully I was able to unplug the bad module by reaching up above the fuse box, and now it has stopped beeping. I imagine the parasitic draw is now fixed but I'll bust out the multimeter to be 100% certain. I pulled out the rear-most plug.

 

they found evidence of water intrusion and damage to the control module.

Don't forget to seal the leak(s) so that this damage doesn't happen again.

 

Finished this up today. Yesterday I pulled up the roof gutter and observed several cracks underneath, as well as the area between the roof and the hatch. I used Permatex RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant, item 80050 and sealed the cracks as best I could (no after photos, sorry, though the second photo shows the results of some of that work).

Using the instructions from the rear accessory TSB in the OP, I pulled the interior panel off and replaced the control unit. Old part number was A11, new one is A12. Sure enough, now the power tailgate works great again. I did pull the "Backup" fuse before doing the work, not sure if that's a requirement or not.

The old A11 part has severe water damage. I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did. I will be reporting this to the NHTSA for sure, and my Service Advisor was also curious so I'll fill him in as well.

 

@CMK
You might want to remove the Permatex RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant, this will not stay bonded very long in time. What is really need is some butyl rubber. I will try to locate again the list of suitable sealants and post to you later. Silicone is great in certain application but on metal, painted surfaces or other adhesive it does no have a long term bond and will skin it self loose.

 

If you can find that list, I'd greatly appreciate it. I found some sealing tape that might do the job but I'll hold off for now.

 

@CMK
Here is something that will fit your project and be locally purchased.
Goggle this to see who has it in your area... 3M 8368 Seam Sealer

 

Heya! Did you happen to find a solution to your problem?

 

Take your car book and look at the fuse diagram for the hood. You can also open the fuse box and the fuse numbers are labelled on it. It will be fuse #18. Red 10 amps fuse. Hope this helps. Just fixed mine.

 

For any of you who have reported to NHTSA, what form did you use? On their website they have a form but only for safety issues, Is there another agency we should use to report this clear lack of quality control?

 

Did you ever fix this or find a work around? I did exactly what you did and it is not working for me. Spent 300 bucks on the control module replaced and nothing

 

Did you have any luck with a fix. I bought the control module replaced it just like you and same thing happened. Wondering if fuse 18 does reset and do the trick as I didn't pull that before replacing. Any help would be appreciated

 

Did you reset the tailgate by Press the tailgate button located under the rear camera? (That is the button you use to open the tailgate when it is completely closed.) Hold it for some secs and it should beep. If this does not work, reset by taking off the #18 fuse in the hood. Should by a 10 amps fuse. Redo the process of disconnecting and reconnecting the module.(check steps from discussion #2 of this thread). Let me know if this helped. I might just put a video on youtube.

 

@KenJWC
In removing this B18 fuse takes away the voltage for almost all the watchdog circuits in the ODY. Just one example would be security, if you locked the doors on your ODY it will not beep to confirm the doors or locked or rapid beep if not locked. These items are called watchdog or if you want to call them monitoring circuits. I think but could be wrong, the remote features will not work as well. Here is a better list of items:
Normally this is removed and replaced after the vehicle is in transport from the manufacture location to it's destination dealer location.

*1: With shutter grille system
*2: Without automatic wiper and with automatic lighting
*3: With automatic wiper
*4: With multipurpose camera unit
*5: With decoration light
*6: With hands free access power tailgate
*7: With rear entertainment
*8: Without auto idle stop system
*9: With auto idle stop system
*10: With DPMS
*11: With power tailgate
*12: With wireless charger
*13: With front power windows AUTO UP/DOWN function
*14: With all power windows AUTO UP/DOWN function
*15: With HomeLink
*16: 10-speed A/T
*17: With power sliding door

 

@KenJWC
In removing this B18 fuse takes away the voltage for almost all the watchdog circuits in the ODY. Just one example would be security, if you locked the doors on your ODY it will not beep to confirm the doors or locked or rapid beep if not locked. These items are called watchdog or if you want to call them monitoring circuits. I think but could be wrong, the remote features will not work as well. Here is a better list of items:
Normally this is removed and replaced after the vehicle is in transport from the manufacture location to it's destination dealer location.

View attachment 188406
View attachment 188407


*1: With shutter grille system
*2: Without automatic wiper and with automatic lighting
*3: With automatic wiper
*4: With multipurpose camera unit
*5: With decoration light
*6: With hands free access power tailgate
*7: With rear entertainment
*8: Without auto idle stop system
*9: With auto idle stop system
*10: With DPMS
*11: With power tailgate
*12: With wireless charger
*13: With front power windows AUTO UP/DOWN function
*14: With all power windows AUTO UP/DOWN function
*15: With HomeLink
*16: 10-speed A/T
*17: With power sliding door

Thank you for the information. Super helpful.

I pulled the fuse, and charged my battery. (Surprisingly, it's at 12.8 (AGM) now after starting at 2.6 V or so.) But, sadly, the car does not seem to function without B18. The ignition light glows, but nothing happens when I push it. (Remote also nothing.) Hopefully the ECU is not burned out. Kind of want to try putting B18 back in to see what happens, but worried about causing further electronic damage. Not quite sure of my plan now. I may just try to cover the roof area where people are saying that it's leaking, and wait a few weeks for warmer weather. I tried to lookup the minimum curing temperature for the 3M 8368 Seam Sealer, but couldn't find anything. I'm hoping 40s will be warm enough. I suppose in the meantime I should go ahead and order a new control module.

 

Please put your name on the list for the class action against Honda. The link to the law firm that is handling the case, is: Honda Odyssey Power Tailgate Failure - Class Action Investigation | Sauder Schelkopf
Honda needs to be held accountable. If you replace the parts yourself, save your receipts. In the event they ever go to court, if Honda is forced to recall, they usually include reimbursement for those that can prove they purchased parts to fix it themselves. Sadly, I'm not a handy person and we paid dearly at the dealer to have it done.

 

@KenJWC
I would leave the connector plugs off from the Tailgate Module and put back in the B18 Fuse. You just would not have any locking or opening/closing of tailgate and would probably flag several errors on this module being gone. I have a 3M pdf for you they are saying roughly 30 minutes before it can be sanded and painted if need be.

 

@KenJWC
I would leave the connector plugs off from the Tailgate Module and put back in the B18 Fuse. You just would not have any locking or opening/closing of tailgate and would probably flag several errors on this module being gone. I have a 3M pdf for you they are saying roughly 30 minutes before it can be sanded and painted if need be.

Just FYI, I finally got everything fixed, more or less. Thanks for your help! I replaced the module months ago, but decided to wait till the weather got warmer before sealing the leak. In the meantime, I just kept van covered with plastic. Seems to be not leaking anymore. In my case, the leak was just a tiny crack, as far as I could tell. Used the 3M sealer you recommended.