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Ok guys I have turned 34,000 miles on my 2018. The transmission jumps when up shifting or down shifting during 23 to 28 mph steady driving range. This happens usually in metro area traffic not at take off. I have only have this van to Honda for service. I had the transmission flushed at the 30,000 service. I complained then and they said the flush might help. It did not. Now the service foreman and service manager says this is normal for this year van. The jump in and out of gear is so pronounced everyone in the van will feel it. Anyone else with this?

Bob
 

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Ok guys I have turned 34,000 miles on my 2018. The transmission jumps when up shifting or down shifting during 23 to 28 mph steady driving range. This happens usually in metro area traffic not at take off. I have only have this van to Honda for service. I had the transmission flushed at the 30,000 service. I complained then and they said the flush might help. It did not. Now the service foreman and service manager says this is normal for this year van. The jump in and out of gear is so pronounced everyone in the van will feel it. Anyone else with this?

Bob
9spd or 10spd?

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Lots of discussion about the 9 speed in other threads. Honda has eliminated it for 2020. Here’s an extract from Consumer Reports way back when they first road tested the 2018


The 280-horsepower V6 engine belts out healthy performance and has more than ample reserve power for merging in traffic or climbing hills. It remains well mannered even at high revs. Fuel economy has improved, with the Odyssey now achieving 22 mpg overall. Most Odysseys, including our EX-L, come with an unobtrusive nine-speed automatic transmission, which won't win any prizes for smoothness or responsiveness. Top-trim Odysseys come with a more pleasant and refined 10-speed automatic.
 

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Check to make sure your transmission fluid is within the proper limits. Also check to see if your van qualifies for TSB 16-087 - Transmission End Cover Leaks (9-Speed A/T).

Hopefully you did not do the 'transmission flush' as you indicated, it is probably a single fluid exchange. What may help is a 3x DNF, give it a shot and see if that helps.

The only other way to combat this with the dealership/Honda, if the problem exists, is to get the Freeze frame Data through an OBD scanner.
 

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Check to make sure your transmission fluid is within the proper limits. Also check to see if your van qualifies for TSB 16-087 - Transmission End Cover Leaks (9-Speed A/T).

Hopefully you did not do the 'transmission flush' as you indicated, it is probably a single fluid exchange. What may help is a 3x DNF, give it a shot and see if that helps.

The only other way to combat this with the dealership/Honda, if the problem exists, is to get the Freeze frame Data through an OBD scanner.
Well I did get the flush at 30,000. They recommended that so I did it. Now the foreman and mechanic all claim this is normal for this transmission. If so I am one pissed off owner.
 

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Ok guys I have turned 34,000 miles on my 2018. The transmission jumps when up shifting or down shifting during 23 to 28 mph steady driving range. This happens usually in metro area traffic not at take off. I have only have this van to Honda for service. I had the transmission flushed at the 30,000 service. I complained then and they said the flush might help. It did not. Now the service foreman and service manager says this is normal for this year van. The jump in and out of gear is so pronounced everyone in the van will feel it. Anyone else with this?

Bob
I'm not much of a car person... but I can say this is happening EXACTLY to my 2018 EXL-Nav. It will jerk so hard sometimes. The first time I thought I was hitting the brake even!
I worry taking this into the dealer - I have about 28,000 miles on mine. But being a woman, I worry they won't take me seriously when I bring up this concern with service.
My brother (who isn't familiar with Honda's) suggested I just trade it in. And my dealer keeps sending me emails and letters in the mail to trade it in for a 2019. :unsure:
 

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Well I did get the flush at 30,000. They recommended that so I did it. Now the foreman and mechanic all claim this is normal for this transmission. If so I am one pissed off owner.
It very well could be "normal", as crappy and unacceptable as that is. The ZF 9-speed transmission uses dog clutches in some of its gears, and sometimes they aren't all that smooth. Here's an article that describes what's going on. They talk mainly about what they're observing in the Chrysler product they have at the time, but the transmission is the same one as in the 2018-2019 Odyssey.


I'm not much of a car person... but I can say this is happening EXACTLY to my 2018 EXL-Nav. It will jerk so hard sometimes. The first time I thought I was hitting the brake even!
I worry taking this into the dealer - I have about 28,000 miles on mine. But being a woman, I worry they won't take me seriously when I bring up this concern with service.
My brother (who isn't familiar with Honda's) suggested I just trade it in. And my dealer keeps sending me emails and letters in the mail to trade it in for a 2019. :unsure:
If you're going to trade your van in, go for a 2020 model. Honda is eliminating the 9-speed and going with only their in-house 10-speed in all trim levels. The 10-speed seems to be waaaay better than the 9-speed.
 

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If the Maintenance does not require it (as published by Honda) you can disregard any 'recommendations' that the service adviser gives you. It is equivalent to getting robbed.
I'm not much of a car person... but I can say this is happening EXACTLY to my 2018 EXL-Nav. It will jerk so hard sometimes. The first time I thought I was hitting the brake even!
I worry taking this into the dealer - I have about 28,000 miles on mine. But being a woman, I worry they won't take me seriously when I bring up this concern with service.
My brother (who isn't familiar with Honda's) suggested I just trade it in. And my dealer keeps sending me emails and letters in the mail to trade it in for a 2019. :unsure:
Do you come to a stop, with the brake pedal depressed, engage the parking brake, and then place it in park. Does that do the jerking you describe still?

Those mailings are just a marketing ploy. You will be losing $$$$ with this 'deal'.
 

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If the Maintenance does not require it (as published by Honda) you can disregard any 'recommendations' that the service adviser gives you. It is equivalent to getting robbed.


Do you come to a stop, with the brake pedal depressed, engage the parking brake, and then place it in park. Does that do the jerking you describe still?

Those mailings are just a marketing ploy. You will be losing $$$$ with this 'deal'.
Oh I completely aware it is a marketing ploy ... we get them pretty frequently and usually disregard them. The dealer we bought our van from is pretty sleazy - so we won't be using them again in the future. LOL

My van does come to a complete stop when I brake, use the parking brake, and place it into park. However it does quite a bit of rollback, regardless if I am parked on a flat surface or a hill. But that is not the issue (at this time) that I am referring to. I am talking about my vehicle jerking when I am in the high 20's or low 30mph range and driving (not stopping, not turning).
 

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Oh I completely aware it is a marketing ploy ... we get them pretty frequently and usually disregard them. The dealer we bought our van from is pretty sleazy - so we won't be using them again in the future. LOL

My van does come to a complete stop when I brake, use the parking brake, and place it into park. However it does quite a bit of rollback, regardless if I am parked on a flat surface or a hill. But that is not the issue (at this time) that I am referring to. I am talking about my vehicle jerking when I am in the high 20's or low 30mph range and driving (not stopping, not turning).
Did your VIN qualify for any transmission programming recalls?
 

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We have a 2017, but our 2008 Honda did the same. We did a drain/fill of the ATF, but still did it. Honda ended up replacing the torque converter and the problem went away. The problem started around 35k and the TC was replaced right at 59k. Van ran smooth for another 80k before we traded it in on our 2017.

You might also try the VCM Muzzler II sold by user Verbatim. It will help smooth out the engine by cutting out the annoying VCM. The improvement is very noticeable for many in the 25-45 mph range. Our 2017 had a noticeable kick-in/kickout when it went into deactivation. Even if it doesn't solve your problem, every Honda with VCM needs a muzzler, IMO.
 

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If the Maintenance does not require it (as published by Honda) you can disregard any 'recommendations' that the service adviser gives you. It is equivalent to getting robbed.


Do you come to a stop, with the brake pedal depressed, engage the parking brake, and then place it in park. Does that do the jerking you describe still?

Those mailings are just a marketing ploy. You will be losing $$$$ with this 'deal'.
I don't completely agree with that. The Ody thrives off fresh ATF. More frequent changes outside of Honda spec have been documented to improve transmission performance. Several members do a 1x drain/refill every other oil change. I think the ATF is the exception to that rule, everything else I likely agree the dealer is taking $ out of your wallet.
 

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I don't completely agree with that. The Ody thrives off fresh ATF. More frequent changes outside of Honda spec have been documented to improve transmission performance. Several members do a 1x drain/refill every other oil change. I think the ATF is the exception to that rule, everything else I likely agree the dealer is taking $ out of your wallet.
I haven't seen any confirmed techniques on how to do the ATF yourself. Is it possible or does the dealer really need to do it? Someone wrote about having to put the car into Maintenance Mode first?? Is there a drain plug? Where is the refill hole? Many thanks.
 

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I was in for an oil change and transmission flush on my 10 speed yesterday. When I went to pick it up an embarrassed service advisor told me they were out of the proper fluid for the 10 speed. The good side is they didn’t charge me for the oil change nor will they charge me for the transmission fluid change when they get it lol
 

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I don't completely agree with that. The Ody thrives off fresh ATF. More frequent changes outside of Honda spec have been documented to improve transmission performance. Several members do a 1x drain/refill every other oil change. I think the ATF is the exception to that rule, everything else I likely agree the dealer is taking $ out of your wallet.
You are indeed titled to your opinion, however the fact is you do not need it to change it more than recommended intervals. 'Fresh' everything is always nice, but they do get your wallet rather light and does nothing to extend the life of your torque converter. What does affect it, is the neglect of changing the ATF at warranted intervals or improper ATF (formulation) aka non-Honda specified ATF. Newer Honda transmissions are sensitive to these than the older ones.
As long as the ATF is experiencing normal driving conditions, it is fine to change it at the MM intervals. If the conditions warrant, extreme cold, extreme hot, or frequent towing (not really applicable to an Odyssey), you may want to change often. As long as the ATF does not experience extreme high temps, its shear strength is intact with the modifiers alive and well. I have a 230K+ Ridgeline (2010) and used to tow a 3500lb trailer about 40+ times a year for 6 years averaging 27K mi/yr. I average around 18K miles a year now and the ATF gets changed at warranted intervals. Mine uses the same DW1 that many Honda/Acura vehicles use on their transmission and I have no shifting or abnormal issues. Though the transmissions are apples and oranges, what I am expressing is the MM procedural followup.

I haven't seen any confirmed techniques on how to do the ATF yourself. Is it possible or does the dealer really need to do it? Someone wrote about having to put the car into Maintenance Mode first?? Is there a drain plug? Where is the refill hole? Many thanks.
It is possible.

9spd ATF change >> 9-spd ATF change. The drain bolt is similar to many other Honda drain bolts that are recessed 6-point socket style than typical 'bolt' and is located on the bottom of the transmission housing. The fill bolt is located to the right of the 'park lock shaft on top of the transmission housing. 9spd uses Type 2 fluid. Level check hole is by the outboard axle.

10spd ATF change >>>> The fill bolt is a traditional bolt in the front of the transmission (next to the TCM) Though it (92800-20000) is labelled as a drain bolt in the parts catalog, it is actually a fill bolt. The drain bolt is the magnetic drain bolt, used in 1992+ Hondas and seems to be located on the bellhousing side (by TC). The fluid is a Type 3.1.

There is no 'dipstick' on these transmissions as they use a method similar to the transfer case and rear diff fluid level/quantity method. You have a level check bolt that needs to overflow and that tells you that the transmission has adequate fluid. Granted the vehicle is level. This is the method, per FSM, I have to use on the Ridgeline to fill the rear diff and transfer case.

I was in for an oil change and transmission flush on my 10 speed yesterday. When I went to pick it up an embarrassed service advisor told me they were out of the proper fluid for the 10 speed. The good side is they didn’t charge me for the oil change nor will they charge me for the transmission fluid change when they get it lol
How many miles on the Ody? What service code did you get?
 
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