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Doesn't matter where you buy the vehicle... it's where you register the vehicle that determines the sales tax.
 

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2020 Odyssey Elite
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Trim: Elite
Purchase Price (incl. fees) Price: $43599 (see below about finders fee/transport)
Price Paid (out of the door, including taxes, titling/registration and fees): $46792 includes finders fee to transport the color we wanted, I think $500, but it wasn't split out, might have been in sale price.
Exterior Color: White
Interior Color: Beige
Add Ons: wheel locks, nitrogen, mud flaps, cargo net (all negotiated for or included in price)
Date Purchased: 07/10/2020
City: Philadelphia
State: PA

It wasn't quite as low as the Elite average, but I checked a bunch of dealers and couldn't get anyone lower, I don't think I left much at all on the table, plus got the 0.9%. 43k flat was the best quote I got but they were playing games and wouldn't put it in writing. Best in writing was 43172 but they couldn't secure the color, and that didn't include the transport to get the color.
 

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Trim: EX-L with Nav and RES
Purchase Price (incl. fees) Price: $34,624(includes $1,000 loyalty)
Price Paid (out of the door, including taxes, titling/registration and fees): $35,560
Exterior Color: White
Interior Color: Mocha
Add Ons: None
Date Purchased: 07/13/2020
City: Portland
State: OR
It seems I missed out on the Costco incentive last month and dealers aren’t really negotiating as much because of limited inventory in my area.
 

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Trim: EX-L
Purchase Price (incl. fees) Price: $32,360(includes $1,000 loyalty)
Price Paid (out of the door, including taxes, titling/registration and fees): $34721
Exterior Color: Black
Interior Color: Mocha
Add Ons: None
Date Purchased: 07/12/2020
City:
State: VA
Have been lurking and doing the online price compare gig for a long time. Found a dealer about 4 hours away thanks to another post above. Got a good deal from them AND they agreed to drop the car off/pick up the trade. Great all around experience.
 

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Trim: EX-L
Purchase Price (incl. fees) Price: $32,360(includes $1,000 loyalty)
Price Paid (out of the door, including taxes, titling/registration and fees): $34721
Exterior Color: Black
Interior Color: Mocha
Add Ons: None
Date Purchased: 07/12/2020
City:
State: VA
Have been lurking and doing the online price compare gig for a long time. Found a dealer about 4 hours away thanks to another post above. Got a good deal from them AND they agreed to drop the car off/pick up the trade. Great all around experience.
Well done!
 

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I would go to the Costco verification site here:https://www.costcoauto.com/offers/incentives/redemption.aspx
And fill it out. Then follow up in a few weeks with Costco.
it costs the dealer nothing but a few minutes of time and I’m sure Costco being Costco will be able to honor it by you producing paperwork or something if the dealers won’t do their part.
Not only that, but my dealer-who didn’t know anything about the Costco coupon until I brought it up, thinks that he actually gets a little SPIF when it processes. It’s a win/win.
 

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Trim: EX-L
Purchase Price (incl. fees) Price: $34,521.71
Price Paid (out of the door, including taxes, titling/registration and fees): $37,000
Exterior Color: White
Interior Color: Beige
Add Ons: None
Date Purchased: 07/17/2020
City: Frisco
State: TX
 

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Hello,
Bought a New 2020 Odyssey EXL today in Austin, TX. Got the finance rate for Odyssey at 0.9% for 60 months. The van is getting delivered by the dealer to my home.
Trim: EXL
Price Paid (base + destination): 32,687
Price Paid (out of the door): 35,892
Add-ons (if any): Kahu, Nitrogen (1yr tire warranty), First place finish
Exterior Color: Deep Scarlet Pearl
Interior Color: Beige
Date Purchased: 04/10/2020
City: Austin
State: Texas
Hey there! I'm new to this. Never purchased a vehicle at all. This is a great resource. Anyway, i'm in Austin, wondering which dealer you went to for this? Was it pre-owned? I got a pre-approved rate of 1.95% from credit union. Wondering if the dealer will be able to go down to around 0.9% for myself as well. Thanks, any other tips you have are welcomed!
Chris
 

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.9% financing is a current Honda special to get you to buy and finance through Honda. If you have goos credit, you should get that offer.
 

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Hi everyone, my husband and I live in KY and are completely new to this. We’ve been looking at the Honda Odyssey Elite for a few weeks and finally sat down and got a quote today...and then promptly walked out. I had read this discussion forum prior to going so I knew their quote was high (OTD at 48,570). My question is, how the heck do you get a good deal? This guy was adamant it was the best they could do. However, I talked to another dealer and they confirmed it was definitely overpriced. (Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to buy from this other dealer because they were unable to obtain the color I wanted.) I can’t stand the thought of being ripped off or taken advantage of. Any recommendations?
 

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Are you willing to travel? If so, cast a wide net and go through dealership websites to get quotes via their Internet sales departments. I live about 500 miles from Virginia, but was able to get prices several thousands lower there than in my home state. On each dealers website you will find info on the vehicles they have in inventory (including color). My strategy is to look for the large volume dealers and copy/paste the same RFQ. Good luck!
 

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2020 Odyssey Elite
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You can also use a written quote from somewhere else as leverage with a local dealer. They might not get all the way there due to local market conditions, but they might get close enough that you don't have to travel.
 

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I did not speak to any dealer on the phone until I had what I thought was the best price and then I called them to finalize the details. I drove to the dealer two days later to pick up the car. Very stress free negotiation.
 

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How much work are you willing to do? I bought a new Odyssey today using all of the strategies described above.

Once I knew what I wanted, I spent 15-20 hours over the course of about a week to get the best deal. Read through this thread and especially the associated Google Sheet so you know what people are paying near you (if you want to filter by a few states and/or a particular trim model, select Data > Filter Views > Create new temporary filter view). Also make sure you know what you want in terms of the car -- trim, accessories,etc. The spreadsheet will help you come up with a decent price. Obviously you want to aim for the low end of the price spectrum. You may not hit it, but you will never know if you do not try. Other factors to consider include how you plan to pay for the car and whether or not you plan to trade anything in. Also make sure you know what incentives are currently being offered. Some are corporate offers from Honda of America and others are local promotions. For example, some dealers are offering discounts to military, first-responders, and healthcare professionals. When you look at the spreadsheet, be sure to factor in that some people are getting discounts that might not apply to you.

After I knew what I wanted, I contacted every Honda dealer within 200 miles of my house (there were more than 20). My preference was to do the discussions only via email so I filled out forms on their websites and gave a non-working phone number. They constantly emailed and asked for my phone number but I just ignored that and focused on the price. Doing the negotiations via email allowed me to keep things more organized and also respond on my schedule instead of theirs. I also turned off image loading in my Gmail settings so they could not use tracking pixels to know when I had read their emails (one guy emailed me twice to ask why I was not reading his emails).

Timing is always important when buying a new car. The end of a month/quarter/year is always going to be more favorable for getting a good price. At these time periods the dealers might be willing to take a loss on an individual vehicle in order to meet some larger corporate sales incentive for the month/quarter/year. December 31st is probably the best day of the year to buy a new car. End of month or end of quarter can be good too, especially when they need to move inventory to make room for the next model year. You never know what they have going on internally so casting a wide net will increase your changes of finding a good deal.

I used a spreadsheet to keep track of their various offers -- base price, how much they charged for options and accessories, etc. Their initial offer is essentially meaningless and is just a starting point in the conversation. Once you have multiple offers, start to play them off each other (this works well if one offer is lower than the rest). If all of them are high (this was the case for me), wait a day or two (sales associates hate it when you go silent) and then make up a price that you think would be great for you and just put it out there. This past Sunday night (six days before the end of the month) I sent a one sentence email to all of the dealers I had been talking to: "If you can do $x out the door for an EX-L with wheel locks, mud guards, and the cargo tray included (color either Modern Steel Metallic or Obsidian Blue Pearl), I can come to your dealership on either Wednesday or Thursday to finalize the paperwork and pick up the van." When the end of the month is approaching, showing that you want to buy now is important. The target price I chose was about $75 higher than the lowest price on the Google Sheet for my state but I also asked for two accessories that the other guy did not get. I thought none of the dealers would accept my offer but I also thought it was a way for me to take control of the discussions. Several said no but car dealers are not going to stop talking to you just because you ask for a price they cannot offer. A few others dealers asked me where I came up with that price. To my great surprise, three (!) different dealers said yes to my low-ball offer. Maybe it should have been even lower. The closest of these was 90 minutes away.

My preference all along had been to buy from the local dealer in my town because they offer free oil changes for as long as I own the van and I live ten minutes away. This is a benefit I expect to use for the next 10+ years. Based on the initial offer and a few back-and-forth emails, I felt the local dealer was not going to give me a good price unless I had a competing offer in hand. So I forwarded them the quote I had from the dealer 90 minutes away and told them I was going to go and buy it on Wednesday unless they matched it. It was a last ditch effort but it worked. I was definitely willing to drive 90 minutes to go and get the van but in the end the local dealer agreed to match it so I got the price I wanted along with free oil changes for as long as I own this van. I was concerned they would do something funny with the numbers so I made them send me a copy of the purchase agreement via email before I went in to the dealership to sign the documents.
 

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Trim: EX-L
Price Paid (base + destination): 31,196
Price Paid (out of the door): 34,077 (veteran discount 1k, honda loyalty 1k)
Add-ons (if any): None
Exterior Color: Modern Steel
Interior Color: gray
Date Purchased: 6/29/2020
City:
State: MD
Do you mind sharing which dealership? I am looking for an EX-L in Maryland as well. Did you use the Costco car buy service? Thank you!
 

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How much work are you willing to do? I bought a new Odyssey today using all of the strategies described above.

Once I knew what I wanted, I spent 15-20 hours over the course of about a week to get the best deal. Read through this thread and especially the associated Google Sheet so you know what people are paying near you (if you want to filter by a few states and/or a particular trim model, select Data > Filter Views > Create new temporary filter view). Also make sure you know what you want in terms of the car -- trim, accessories,etc. The spreadsheet will help you come up with a decent price. Obviously you want to aim for the low end of the price spectrum. You may not hit it, but you will never know if you do not try. Other factors to consider include how you plan to pay for the car and whether or not you plan to trade anything in. Also make sure you know what incentives are currently being offered. Some are corporate offers from Honda of America and others are local promotions. For example, some dealers are offering discounts to military, first-responders, and healthcare professionals. When you look at the spreadsheet, be sure to factor in that some people are getting discounts that might not apply to you.

After I knew what I wanted, I contacted every Honda dealer within 200 miles of my house (there were more than 20). My preference was to do the discussions only via email so I filled out forms on their websites and gave a non-working phone number. They constantly emailed and asked for my phone number but I just ignored that and focused on the price. Doing the negotiations via email allowed me to keep things more organized and also respond on my schedule instead of theirs. I also turned off image loading in my Gmail settings so they could not use tracking pixels to know when I had read their emails (one guy emailed me twice to ask why I was not reading his emails).

Timing is always important when buying a new car. The end of a month/quarter/year is always going to be more favorable for getting a good price. At these time periods the dealers might be willing to take a loss on an individual vehicle in order to meet some larger corporate sales incentive for the month/quarter/year. December 31st is probably the best day of the year to buy a new car. End of month or end of quarter can be good too, especially when they need to move inventory to make room for the next model year. You never know what they have going on internally so casting a wide net will increase your changes of finding a good deal.

I used a spreadsheet to keep track of their various offers -- base price, how much they charged for options and accessories, etc. Their initial offer is essentially meaningless and is just a starting point in the conversation. Once you have multiple offers, start to play them off each other (this works well if one offer is lower than the rest). If all of them are high (this was the case for me), wait a day or two (sales associates hate it when you go silent) and then make up a price that you think would be great for you and just put it out there. This past Sunday night (six days before the end of the month) I sent a one sentence email to all of the dealers I had been talking to: "If you can do $x out the door for an EX-L with wheel locks, mud guards, and the cargo tray included (color either Modern Steel Metallic or Obsidian Blue Pearl), I can come to your dealership on either Wednesday or Thursday to finalize the paperwork and pick up the van." When the end of the month is approaching, showing that you want to buy now is important. The target price I chose was about $75 higher than the lowest price on the Google Sheet for my state but I also asked for two accessories that the other guy did not get. I thought none of the dealers would accept my offer but I also thought it was a way for me to take control of the discussions. Several said no but car dealers are not going to stop talking to you just because you ask for a price they cannot offer. A few others dealers asked me where I came up with that price. To my great surprise, three (!) different dealers said yes to my low-ball offer. Maybe it should have been even lower. The closest of these was 90 minutes away.

My preference all along had been to buy from the local dealer in my town because they offer free oil changes for as long as I own the van and I live ten minutes away. This is a benefit I expect to use for the next 10+ years. Based on the initial offer and a few back-and-forth emails, I felt the local dealer was not going to give me a good price unless I had a competing offer in hand. So I forwarded them the quote I had from the dealer 90 minutes away and told them I was going to go and buy it on Wednesday unless they matched it. It was a last ditch effort but it worked. I was definitely willing to drive 90 minutes to go and get the van but in the end the local dealer agreed to match it so I got the price I wanted along with free oil changes for as long as I own this van. I was concerned they would do something funny with the numbers so I made them send me a copy of the purchase agreement via email before I went in to the dealership to sign the documents.
Thanks so much for all that info! I've been on the phone/email with 5 different dealerships this morning and already have the offer down to 44,370. So much better! Anyone know how to get the 500 dollar Costco cash card?
 

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I used some tactics above and obtained prices via website/email from the nearest 8 or so dealerships. All over the board, some high some low. Created a spreadsheet to keep track of price, dealer add on accessories, and doc fees. Started with the dealership closest to me for a test drive and talked numbers in person. First offer I said I wasn't really interested in the dealer accessories they put on every car, as the script goes the boss came out and dropped the price another $1k, I basically said now we're talking, need to go talk to the wife(great excuse to walk out without being pressured into putting down a deposit) I knew they were at least willing to play ball. Offered me a fair number for my (non-Honda) trade that they will be able to sell on their lot and not ship to auction. Went to another local dealership, same thing, their best offer was better than first place but lower trade in by $500. Got an offer from CarMax for $1k more than original dealer offer, but that made the sales tax difference an exact wash. Figured it was good to have another card to play if needed I could take out the trade from the deal. Emailed dealership A(who I liked better) and told them to beat it and said the price I wanted. Stoked their ego a bit by praising them for working with me and said I am serious and ready to buy, make a sale before the end of the month, etc and that I liked the salesperson I worked with. They accepted along with full original offer for my trade, which probably helped in getting me a lower number since they will make some $ on my trade. Final negotiated price difference and first offer from them was about a $1500 gap. Some other dealerships I got quotes from offer free oil changes but are 1 hour away, and for me with a family and busy schedule it's just not worth my time. If I was single I wouldn't mind taking the drive. Might have been able to push them even harder but they had the color I wanted and they worked with me and were not overly pushy, I'll take it and call it a day. But it seems like the dealers I talked to were willing to deal. I wanted to wait till the 2021s come out but they seem like they will be delayed, and I know they won't be as willing to deal on them and I'd have to use the USAA/TruCar route. Plus 0.9% is great.

I'll post my final numbers after I get delivery tomorrow but my base price for an EX is 30504 plus 695 accessories. Nearly all the dealers around South Jersey put "required" accessory packages on their cars and won't sell you one without it. Both places dropped their numbers quite a bit when I said those accessories do nothing for me, and I feel like I'm forced to buy them. Doc fees also very high here, most places in the $400s with one an hour away in the $300s. Also NJ makes you pay for 4 years of registration up front which is like $300+.

One note on the Costco program, I was put in touch with a dealer but the nearest one was 1 hour away over in the Philly suburbs. They would not release the pricing sheet to me via email, after offering to send a pic of my membership card. So I told them fine I won't do business with you. Asked what the best price I was getting, I told them, and they said "take it". Not sure whose rule it is to only disclose the sheet in person, theirs or Costco. I was put off by this.

I guess between COVID, end of month, end of model year, and a clean trade in all let me get a great price. Couldn't take advantage of the loyalty discount unfortunetly right now both cars are Toyotas.

Also to the poster above, the $500 Costco card offer expired in early July.
 

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I tried both Costco and Sam's car buying programs. Costco program worked a little better as they had 3 nearby dealerships contact me. 2 of the 3 gave me prices via email. The other insisted I come in to the dealership...not my style. Sam's had only one contact for me. They gave me a high price via email. Prices varied by as much as $2000. All were much higher than I got in VA. The SC market was not competitive to prices I got in VA.
 
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