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Literally just finished my 2nd timing belt job. First done at 90k miles. Second done at 171k miles. 2010 Honda Odyssey LX. Here's my write-up while the thoughts are fresh...

New issues:
1. There's a "thunk" now when I start to drive away that I've never noticed before. I did not notice it each time I did a stop-and-go, but I did hear it maybe 40% of the time when pulling away from a stop. I was driving carefully with the windows down and did not try a hard take-off to see if I heard anything differently. I have not researched it yet, but could it be the motor mounts? Not sure...
2. There were two loud "pops" as I was backing out of the driveway: one as I went over a bump while reversing and one as I started to turn the van left while reversing. I did not hear these pops again on my test drive. It sounded like I ran over an acorn, so I'm hoping that's all it was.
3. There are two fans, driver and passenger side, in front of the engine. When I came home from my 5 minute drive, the driver-side fan turned on literally the second I turned off the engine, and it stayed running for about 2-3 minutes with the car off and the keys in my pocket. I don't recall this ever happening before. The first thing that comes to mind is that I have not replaced enough radiator fluid, so maybe the car simply was hot. I added a little over a gallon, which brought everything up to full (full at both the radiator and the overflow tank), but I believe one gallon is not enough. Both fans spin freely. The passenger-side fan did not come on, just the driver-side fan.
Edit: I checked radiator fluid level about an hour later; it was low (expected). I added another 2.5 quarts to bring the level back to full in the overflow tank and at the proper level at the radiator itself.

Replaced both times: serpentine belt, drive belt, drive belt auto-tensioner, idler pulley, timing belt adjuster, water pump, serpentine belt (accessory?) auto-tensioner, and radiator fluid. I did NOT replace any bolts on purpose - I actually tried to buy the recommended "replace these" bolts at my local Honda store, but the parts counter told me they didn't replace them so I shouldn't bother buying them, plus he didn't have them in stock anyway. (If there's a next time I'll probably order new bolts online anyway.) Did anything appear like it needed replacing? Not really. After removing the old parts, the water pump seemed fine, so did the drive belt and the serpentine belt. The drive belt auto-tensioner had begun to leak a bit but was still operable. I'll probably keep the old serpentine belt in the under-floor storage in case of emergencies.

Problems and solution - in no particular order - so that you may learn from my mistakes:
1. One of the bolts to the drive belt auto-tensioner broke. It sheered off right at the block. I ended up cutting a groove into the surface with a Dremel and then using a flat screwdriver to turn it out. Praise God it actually turned with minimal effort; I don't know what I would've done had it not come out. While I worked to get it out I sent a buddy to Ace Hardware to buy the same size bolt using the non-snapped bolt as a guide, then I installed two new bolts. I was actually using a torque wrench I had rented from my local parts store, so I was especially angry. However, after this I didn't trust it anymore and just snugged everything by hand. I did torque the lug nuts though...
2. I put the covers on before I reinstalled the side chassis mount. After I realized my mistake, I then had to take off all the cover bolts, which was a huge waste of time.
3. I installed the serpentine belt auto-tensioner before re-installing the covers, so I had to take it back off, install the covers, then re-install the auto-tensioner. Another huge waste of time.
4. The serpentine belt (accessory belt?) was a pain in the butt to get off. I wasted a lot of time and next time will probably buy the serpentine belt tool down at "the Harbor" instead of relying on a 3/8" wrench with a cheater bar.
5. One of the cam sprockets skipped a tooth after I installed the drive belt. I noticed it after I rotated the engine by hand in order to inspect the timing marks. Crankshaft was in line. Front cam sprocket was in line. Rear cam sprocket was off. I rotated the engine again and yep, it was now an additional tooth off. I re-compressed the drive belt auto-tensioner using one of the bolts from the battery in order to give myself enough play to spin the rear camshaft sprocket back into line. I didn't begin reassembly until I had rotated the engine a few times and observed everything lining up correctly each time. Funny observation: now I can't use the bolt for the battery because the nut won't screw on, but tomorrow I plan to make a cleaner cut using the Dremel to see if that will help. For now I'm just using a zip tie to keep in place the bracket that goes over top of the battery. The zip tie's working fine for now.
6. I like my floor jack, and I was using it to hold up the engine while I took off the motor mounts. However, sometime into the job I noticed the jack had lowered just enough to no longer provide any type of support to the engine. Thinking I hadn't tightened the jack enough, I jacked it up again until it was again supporting the engine, but darn it the thing didn't lower again juuuuust enough so that it wasn't providing any lift. I don't know if this did any damage to the other motor mounts, but I am hearing a soft "thunk" or "thud" now that I don't remember hearing before I did the belt job.

Kudos:
1. I had all my tools lined out the night before.
2. I used the search feature on this site and downloaded some guides, then re-read them all a few days before beginning the job.
3. I made sure I had someone available to make a parts run for me in case something broke.
4. When the auto-tensioner bolt broke, it came out easily, so thank you, Jesus, for your infinite mercy on this poor soul.
5. I rented the crank holder tool from my local parts store, and the crank bolt actually came out without my having to use the "bump the starter" method. I had my foot on the brake disc and thought I was going to snap my 1/2" breaker bar, but it actually came out.
6. The only reason I noticed that the drive belt had jumped a tooth was because I followed the "rotate the engine and re-check the timing" tip I had read somewhere. I imagine the engine would have destructed immediately had I not followed that advice.
7. Use jack stands. My floor jack, I now know, slightly loses pressure and will not hold a load. I use jack stands anyway, but this was a reminder to myself to continue using them. I actually used a 3rd jack stand under the front just in case one of the other two broke, and seeing my jack lose pressure like that is making me want to continue using that backup jack stand just in case.
8. I drained coolant using the outlet at the engine block, just above and behind the oil filter. Last time I removed my water pump it dumped fluid everywhere, even though I had drained fluid using the petcock at the bottom of the radiator. This method, using the outlet on the engine block, seemed to get way more fluid. When I removed the water pump, I didn't even get all my paper towels wet - it made it much cleaner.
 

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When you first start the van, the ABS system will do a diagnostic check when you hit 10 or 15 mph or so. This is like a "thunk" that you can feel. It only happens after you start it up, though. Might be what you're experiencing.
 

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When you first start the van, the ABS system will do a diagnostic check when you hit 10 or 15 mph or so. This is like a "thunk" that you can feel. It only happens after you start it up, though. Might be what you're experiencing.
You know, I read that after searching the forum, but it was happening multiple times. Example: If I start the van and drive through five stop signs (drive to the sign, stop, begin driving to the next sign, stop, without turning off the van, etc.), I will hear a "thunk" at maybe two of them as I begin driving forward from a stop. I'm going to keep researching.

Interesting note: I think I discovered my power steering pump is leaking, but not through the two hoses where most people on the forum identify leaks. That is my next project.
 

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The thunk sound, does it started happening after you did the timing belt?

The side engine mount, is it tight? Try to wiggle the engine from left top side. See if you can reproduce the sound. About the power steering pump area. Even if the bolt is tight, there may be still some movement.
 

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As someone getting their ducks in a row for #1 on a modern Honda Thanks!(y)

Your two little side trips will be noted at that time of the procedure.
Here's hoping your motor mount is ok and yes, I too thank God for small blessings. I don't think dealing with stubborn stripped bolts lead to better enlightenment.
 
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