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4th Gen Alternator output?

2.7K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  phattyduck  
#1 ·
So I just fixed that shitty spool valve leak. Went with a new valve. Ouch.......anyway.
When the van was out for a few days, I charged the battery to 100%. It's only 1.5 years old.

Started it up and the oem denso is putting out 14.5-7 volts at idle. Warm engine. No head lights on, interior fan on low.

What kinds of volts are you guys getting?

Thanks
 
#2 ·
sounds about right, sometimes will drop to 13.9 at idle.

if you have an ammeter for fun put it on the positive wire from the alternator to the battery.

I did this and turned on every damn thing possible, and opened and closed all the power sliders, subwoofer blasting.

couldn't get it past 115amp draw.
which isnt bad since the denso outputs 130max.
 
#3 ·
Sounds normal. It may drop to upper 12s or lower 13s when in low charging mode, but when first starting that looks good.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
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#6 ·
14.x V sounds good to me.

Are you concerned that the ELD control is not dropping the voltage?

If you are, and you have a VCMuzzler, you may need to disconnect that to let the ECU (PCM) drop the charging control setpoint. I found that in my 2011 LX, with a home-brewed, switched, 77 Ohm resistor doing the VCMuzzling, the system voltage hardly ever would drop to the lower value.

Then one day, during very rare easy+hot conditions, it happened (voltage dropped to 12.x V), and I found that switching the resistor in and out of the circuit would trigger the ECU's control switching. From that, I infer that the ECT1 reading needs to be sufficiently high (among a few other requirements) to allow the ECU to drop the charging setpoint from about 14.x to 12.x V (not charging).
 
#7 ·
14.x V sounds good to me.

Are you concerned that the ELD control is not dropping the voltage?

If you are, and you have a VCMuzzler, you may need to disconnect that to let the ECU (PCM) drop the charging control setpoint. I found that in my 2011 LX, with a home-brewed, switched, 77 Ohm resistor doing the VCMuzzling, the system voltage hardly ever would drop to the lower value.

Then one day, during very rare easy+hot conditions, it happened (voltage dropped to 12.x V), and I found that switching the resistor in and out of the circuit would trigger the ECU's control switching. From that, I infer that the ECT1 reading needs to be sufficiently high (among a few other requirements) to allow the ECU to drop the charging setpoint from about 14.x to 12.x V (not charging).
Thanks.
I am going to monitor output for the next few months.
We travel in May.......Covid allowing of course.