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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello. Does anyone know if a 6 ton A-frame press from HF would be enough to separate the hub/breaing from the knuckle? I needs to replace both lower ball joints. Thanks.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Y do u need to separate the hub and bearing to take out the lower ball joint?
I said separate the hub/bearing from the knuckle not separate the bearing from the hub. I need to get the hub/bearing assembly out of the knuckle because it blocks the ball joint from coming out
 

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Hereafter the back of the ody wishbone. I don't see where your hub/bearing is in the way of the lower ball joint
 

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I replaced my Ody's lower ball joints last month and, yes, the wheel bearing assembly sits about 1mm over the ball joint. You have to remove the bearing to remove the ball joint. The good news is you don't need a press to remove the bearing. I removed the 4, 12mm bolts. Then, I placed a 36mm socket (you'll need this 36mm socket to remove the axle nut anyway) on the opposite side of the bearing and hammered it a few times to get it out. Not too hard at all. I take it your ball joint is shot already so, once you remove the bearing, you can hammer at the b-joint to get it out. I found a nice trick to get the new b-joint installed is to freeze it. I put mine in the freezer for a couple of hours, put a dab of grease around it and it went into place fairly simple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I replaced my Ody's lower ball joints last month and, yes, the wheel bearing assembly sits about 1mm over the ball joint. You have to remove the bearing to remove the ball joint. The good news is you don't need a press to remove the bearing. I removed the 4, 12mm bolts. Then, I placed a 36mm socket (you'll need this 36mm socket to remove the axle nut anyway) on the opposite side of the bearing and hammered it a few times to get it out. Not too hard at all. I take it your ball joint is shot already so, once you remove the bearing, you can hammer at the b-joint to get it out. I found a nice trick to get the new b-joint installed is to freeze it. I put mine in the freezer for a couple of hours, put a dab of grease around it and it went into place fairly simple.
So a 36mm socket would work? Tried using four longer bolts in place of the stock ones and beating on them evenly. That did not work at all. I'm going to try this. Is this a safe way for to separate the hub from the knuckle? I would prefer not to damage the wheel bearings
 

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A friend who is a Honda certified mechanic suggested using the 36mm socket over the bearing to hammer it out. You need to hit it firmly and as evenly as possible. A single, hard, solid hit works better than many uncontrolled bangs of the hammer. Also, hold the socket in place so it doesn't "bounce" when you hammer it. It takes a bit of effort but it does come out.
 

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When I did it this summer, I did it like Eric_The_Car_guy in the video. Where he used the 4 long bolts, I used the 4 stock bolts partially threaded in. Put an impact socket over it and an impact extension and hit it with a 3lb hammer. Worked, but mangled the extension end where I was hammering. If I do it again, I think a deepwell impact socket would work better or, better yet, buy some bolts like Eric uses.

I did not remove the bearing all the way, just moved it out of the way of the ball joint flange. It only has to move about 1/4 inch to get the ball joint out.

I was afraid to hit it on the bearing and wanted to push out with the bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
This is the most frustrating Honda I ever owned. My old accord would have been done a long time ago using the four longer bolts method.Parts are hard to come by for this thing. It has it's own special distributor(that's leaking once again), just a royal PITA when things go wrong. Does anyone know from experience whether 2000+ Acura Cl knuckles will work? This is my final attempt, I cannot justify spending more money on this van.

I'll also look for a shop to press out the spindle but if they screw up these bearings I'm just going to drive it to the automall and get my $50 towards the purchase of a newer car. One of my coworkers had a prism and all he had to do was unbolt three bolts and voila. ball joints out. How about this Honda? If you insist on these obnoxious designs of blocking ball joint removal with wheel bearings then those ball joints should never have to come out. They should be bullit proof.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I went to HF and actually looked at that 6ton press. what a joke. I seriously doubt that thing could penetrate Jenna Jameson let alone press out rusted out hubs. So I got the 20 ton shop press instead. It was a good price. great bang for buck. So I brought it home and set it up. Those knuckles were literally welded on with that rust. I just kept pumping and PLLIINGGGGGG. The bearing/hub assemble fell out. My method was a little unorthodox but it worked.You would be MUCH better off using thick gauge steel than these super big prybars.lol. This thing gets the job done. So now my ball joints are nice and new. I'm keeping this thing around.




 

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That's some drastic measures you took there .. Still, I must confess, this would have made my job of removing/replacing the ball joints a lot easier.
 
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