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Great job! Looking at your pictures, I notice that you install the speakers horizontally instead of vertically. Is there any particular reason why you did it that way?
You should really consider installing an amplifier to drive those 6x9's, it will make a huge difference in sound.

-Harry
 

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Nice job on the install ! How's the sound of the 6x9. Just curious, you have those switches that select between the stock 4" and the 6x9, are there any particular reason why you did not wire those 6x9 with the stock 4" so all of them would sound together ? ( I don't know anything about sound system, just curious
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Wow! Great pics Dorhn! Now about that Auburn plate...


Maybe I'll see you at a game this season. I'm an LSU alum and a good friend is an AU alum so we'll probably be going to the LSU-Auburn game this year.

I'm getting a SS as well so I like to see pics of nice shiny SS vans on here!

PS I like all your mirrors...any drawbacks you've seen to this point? I really am looking to make this the safest vehicle I've ever owned even if it means sticking on a few extra mirror doo-dads.

[This message has been edited by nyvram (edited 06-17-2001).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Guys
These particular speakers have a very large diameter magnet and need at least 3 1/2 inches of mounting depth. The three things that I had to consider when trying to decide where to mount were:
1)Will the speakers fall within the recessed area of the plastic interior panel so that they will be on a flat mounting surface?
2)Is there room in one of the tailgate cavities for the speaker magnet?
3)Will all 4 speaker mounting screws tap into the metal tailgate structure? This is very important because the interior panel is very flimsy and only held on with snaps!

Taking these criteria into account and after a lot of measuring, the location you see is the ONLY place these speakers would fit. And they had to be mounted horizontally in order to achieve #3.
The 3/4" spacers provide just enough added clearance for the magnets and also prevent the plastic interior panel from bowing in when everything is tightened down.I used 2" screws to mount the speakers. They go through the speaker mounting flange, the plastic interior panel,the spacer and tap into the metal tailgate structure. This pulls everything down tight.
These babies vibrate everything, even the tag, so while you have the panel off, tap on everything in the tailgate looking for rattles and do the "Chuck thing"! When I have time, I want to go back in the tailgate and deaden the interior side of the sheetmetal with Stinger RoadKill spray to cut down on vibrations. Also I want to try and create 2 distinct enclosures within the tailgate. Maybe a couple of pieces of tubular pipe insulation placed vertically on each side of the square center hole where the latch is located? Another interesting experiment would be to cut some tuned ports in the lower right and left corners of the plastic interior panel and turn the tailgte into a bass reflex enclosure.
I don't know if the speaker selector switch was really necessary. You could just unplug the wires at the 4" speakers and extend them on back to the tailgate. I probably won't switch to the 4" speakers anyway. I don't think it would be a good idea to wire them in series with the 6X9's.
These speakers are very efficient (93db) but they are WAY back there and screaming for more power! I'm using the stock head unit but now I've got the hots for an after market unit with lots of clean power! That would really bring these speakers alive!
I installed these speakers mainly for sounds from the rear of the van when we are standing around behind it with the liftgate up. When driving I prefer the soundstage in front, but dialing these in just a little does wonders for the overall sonic effect!
With the third seat up, some of the highs are absorbed, but not to the extent I expected.
OK,one of you guys take this to the next level. Install a set and spend some time deadening and tuning the tailgate enclosure so that they go as deep as possible. Install an amp and a low pass filter, rolling off everything above say 200Hz thus creating a built in sub. Flip a switch to loose the low pass filter and, bingo, back to full range.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
A couple of other points concerning this 6x9 speaker installation I should make:

Be sure to cut the padding away on the back side of the plastic interior panel just where the 3/4" spacers go. Then trim away the ribs on the back side of the panel in this area. This is so the speakers have a nice flat rigid surface to tighten down onto. Otherwise, the panel will distort and the speakers will not seal properly when tightened down. Worse yet, if you did not do this you might distort the speaker frame causing the voice coil to rub and ruin the speaker. Once this is done, stick the spacers in position on the back of the panel with a little adhesive caulk to facilitate reinstallation of the panel.

Secondly, I wired the 6x9's IN PHASE with the front 6 1/2" door speakers. I need to go back and flip them out of phase with the fronts, then listen for reinforcement or cancellation when played in conjunction with the fronts. Wouldn't surprise me if wiring them out of phase doesn't reinforce the low frequency energy. Wonder if Honda has the little 4" speakers out of phase with the fronts? I'll check this later and let you know.
 

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Great job dlh2! Could you and/or Toyman comment on the effects of the 6x9's mounted on the rear door, which in my case is opened and "banged" shut often? I cringe thinking about the physical beating they are taking and wonder how adversely it might affect them over the short/long term. TIA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
sdp
I worried about this too. That's why I keep stressing the fact that the plastic interior panel is very flimsy, only held on by snaps, therefore the speaker mounting screws MUST tap into the metal sub-structure of the tailgate. Also adjust the rubber bumpers on the tailgate properly (see Chuck's photos). I have seen a lot of vehicles that have factory speakers mounted in the tailgate and would think that auto speakers are designed to handle this type of abuse assuming that they are SECURELY mounted. Consider also that speakers mounted in the front doors have to handle these G-forces much more often over the life of a vehicle than those mounted in the tailgate.

[This message has been edited by dlh2 (edited 06-26-2001).]
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by sdp:
Great job dlh2! Could you and/or Toyman comment on the effects of the 6x9's mounted on the rear door, which in my case is opened and "banged" shut often? I cringe thinking about the physical beating they are taking and wonder how adversely it might affect them over the short/long term. TIA.</font>
TIP:

If you are worried pressure and have an EX, open the doors, close your back door then reclose your side doors.



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dlh2,

How did you mount the storage bin to the aftermarket deck that you put in? There are no slots for the storage bin brackets on aftermarket decks........

Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
kirby
The pioneer unit I installed had some existing recessed screws in the same area as the slots on the factory unit so the little bin brackets hooked into these recessions and were held in place when the big mounting brackets were installed on the Pioneer. Picture # 35 shows this. The bin was a little loose until the new unit was mounted and the dash trim panel reinstalled, then everything was nice and tight. If your aftermarket unit has no place to hook the bin brackets into, I would suggest fabricating some new bin brackets that can be held on by the same screws that are used for mounting the big brackets.
http://www.fototime.com/inv/35BDA4B52725BB7
 
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