95 Ody-lifetime fuel filter?
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Lots of info previously. NOT lifetime, should be changed every 30,000 miles, give or take.
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=43017&highlight=fuel+filter+change
Can be a bear to change, bolt comes out from the top and a flare nut wrench for the bottom line.
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=43017&highlight=fuel+filter+change
Can be a bear to change, bolt comes out from the top and a flare nut wrench for the bottom line.
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249 Posts
I believe it is a maintenance interval item listed in your manual.
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725 Posts
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=39339
need to re post pics the links are dead now . but you will need a flare nut wrench/ also called crows foot 14mm to remove the metal line on the bottom of the fuel filter.
need to re post pics the links are dead now . but you will need a flare nut wrench/ also called crows foot 14mm to remove the metal line on the bottom of the fuel filter.
I changed mine at 110K miles. I did notice a change in performance, responsiveness.
Now at 152K, I am not sure if I need to change it again since performance is still good. I still get 26 to 27 MPG on the highway with full camping gear load.
It is a pain to replace and almost impossible to do if you don't have a claw wrench.
Now at 152K, I am not sure if I need to change it again since performance is still good. I still get 26 to 27 MPG on the highway with full camping gear load.
It is a pain to replace and almost impossible to do if you don't have a claw wrench.
other info
I spoke with parts mgr at my dealership-used to be service mgr. He said official word was lifetime but he personally would change it. He also came outside to show me where it was on the car but said it was not an easy job.
Then I called a well respected independent shop. He said since 94=modern fuel injected era he has had no cars come in dead. Worst case is greatly reduced top speed. He said if you can drive 75 mph fuel flow is adequate.
I will look for pictures on DIY. I would hate to be driving 30 mph on a highway far away.
I spoke with parts mgr at my dealership-used to be service mgr. He said official word was lifetime but he personally would change it. He also came outside to show me where it was on the car but said it was not an easy job.
Then I called a well respected independent shop. He said since 94=modern fuel injected era he has had no cars come in dead. Worst case is greatly reduced top speed. He said if you can drive 75 mph fuel flow is adequate.
I will look for pictures on DIY. I would hate to be driving 30 mph on a highway far away.
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725 Posts
Re: other info
this is true but will put extra work on the diaprham in the fuel pump and would cause it to fail early.b moe said:
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122 Posts
Fuel filter is not life time the only reason that Honda in the US call it life time is because its a pain on LHD cars to change. In the UK and Japan its every 24k miles. The steering column on the LHD cars causes the problem. The top and bottom pipes are a little difficult to get to but the real nightmare is the 10mm bolt into the bulkhead that holds the filter in place. I would recommend changing it every 2 years but it will be abit of a tight space to work in.
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17 Posts
Oh boy, I am tasked with the challenge of replacing this fuel filter. The van has about 300K miles on it and the other day it died while driving @ 45 MPH.
It has in the past stuttered, stumbled and then eventually came back around. This time it didn't and wouldn't start. It cranks just fine but no fire and the plugs are only a couple of months old and it has a new air filter. I did pull the upper fuel line off the filter, placed it in a container and cranked the engine. The container had about a cup of fuel after just two 5 second cranks. This leads me to believe it is not the pump.
-The rotor turns when cranked as well (I disconnected the electrical before cranking). Dizzy cap obviously off
-Tried wiggling and jiggling the key but no change. It's never had an ignition problem that I'm aware of.
-I checked all fuses and relays too.
So do you all think this points to a terrible clogged filter? It's probably the original or the second at best.
Before I forget, I also snagged a fuel pump of amazon for $18.00. Here it is: Amazon.com: Autobest F4230 Electric Fuel Pump: Automotive I know I may not need it but for $18.00 I couldn't pass it up.
Any help or guidance is much appreciated. I do know about the crow foot 14 MM wrench and accessing from under and behind but it's still a major PITA to get at. Thanks in advance.
The van has about 300K miles on it and the other day it died while driving @ 45 MPH.It has in the past stuttered, stumbled and then eventually came back around. This time it didn't and wouldn't start. It cranks just fine but no fire and the plugs are only a couple of months old and it has a new air filter. I did pull the upper fuel line off the filter, placed it in a container and cranked the engine. The container had about a cup of fuel after just two 5 second cranks. This leads me to believe it is not the pump.
-The rotor turns when cranked as well (I disconnected the electrical before cranking). Dizzy cap obviously off
-Tried wiggling and jiggling the key but no change. It's never had an ignition problem that I'm aware of.
-I checked all fuses and relays too.
So do you all think this points to a terrible clogged filter? It's probably the original or the second at best.
Before I forget, I also snagged a fuel pump of amazon for $18.00. Here it is: Amazon.com: Autobest F4230 Electric Fuel Pump: Automotive I know I may not need it but for $18.00 I couldn't pass it up.
Any help or guidance is much appreciated. I do know about the crow foot 14 MM wrench and accessing from under and behind but it's still a major PITA to get at. Thanks in advance.
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17 Posts
Thanks for your write up on the other thread, it really helps get an understanding of the task at hand.
Cheers
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Well, after a long fight with the piss poor design, I have it replaced.
The SOB still won't start.
The SOB still won't start.
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17 Posts
For those of you who have yet to do this job buy a good set of crowsfoot wrenches don't just buy this cheapo set from Autozone. They aren't very well made an will slip off.
Spend the extra $10 and buy a set that doesn't have a flat rear portion like these from Amazon.
Once my ordeal was done, I lightly sanded the distributor rotor (to clean it up). Well it wouldn't start so I stopped at Autozone and bought a new one for $13. As soon as I installed it the little van that "once could" is back at "now can" again.
Spend the extra $10 and buy a set that doesn't have a flat rear portion like these from Amazon.
Once my ordeal was done, I lightly sanded the distributor rotor (to clean it up). Well it wouldn't start so I stopped at Autozone and bought a new one for $13. As soon as I installed it the little van that "once could" is back at "now can" again.
not sure what is meant by flat rear portion? Are these the ones you think are better?
https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.blackrocktools.com%2Fmedia%2Fcatalog%2Fproduct%2Fcache%2F1%2Fimage%2F9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95%2Fj%2F4%2Fj4924hfl-1_2_1_3_1_1.jpg&f=1
Or are you talking about the 12 point type?
https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u...eflarenutcrowfootwrenchsetno_10106673.jpg&f=1
https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.blackrocktools.com%2Fmedia%2Fcatalog%2Fproduct%2Fcache%2F1%2Fimage%2F9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95%2Fj%2F4%2Fj4924hfl-1_2_1_3_1_1.jpg&f=1
Or are you talking about the 12 point type?
https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u...eflarenutcrowfootwrenchsetno_10106673.jpg&f=1
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