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I'm sure I'm not more experienced than you. I've only been working on AC for 4-5 years but have done lots of self-teaching, reading &research, and YouTube (both on how to do it and how not to do it.) I picked up a Robinair Cooltech 34788 machine at the beginning of the year, for a steal, on Craigslist and it is fantastic. Before the machine, I've been quite successful charging systems with gauges and cans and using a scale. I have NOT been successful trying to charge or "top off" just using gauges. So many say they can do it but I tried early on doing that and killed a system that had no issues to begin with when I got my first set of gauges. I was experimenting a bit with the gauges set when an o-ring blew in the service port coupler on the cheap gauge set I was using and I lost a bunch of refrigerant before getting it shut off. I estimated how much I thought I lost, tried to top it off until the pressures looked good and let it go. A few months later the compressor gave out. I replaced the compressor, condenser, and receiver drier and motored on. The compressor quit a month later and I found a bad expansion valve. Another new compressor, condenser, drier, and expansion valve and the system has been working flawlessly since then.

Lessons:
1. Do NOT try to charge with only gauges. Charge only by weight.
2. If the compressor fails don't try to cheap out and replace only what failed. Go the extra mile and replace the metering devices and flush when necessary.

There are enough people who get lucky and don't kill their compressors that everyone things it can be done. I guess it can but it can get really expensive when it doesn't work out as planned.
I top off a few cars every year with tiny leaks. I have the charging scale that you put the 30lbs Freon tank on. And charge with liquid With the system off then start and very slowly add Freon on the low side until the return at the compressor stays cold with the cabin fan on high. It’s easier when really hot outside otherwise it’s a guess unless I Add dye, vacuum it down for an hour and charge back to spec.
Glad it was easy. I took it from your first post that you had repaired the motor, reinstalled it and it worked after that. Then later on this problem came up. Oh well, glad you're fixed.

Yeah, in the future, don't put anything but pure unadulterated R134a in your system. If it needs oil, put in the proper oil in the proper amount, but nothing but oil and R134a. A small amount of dye is OK, if needed, too. Sealers and other stuff are bad.
Also I agree only use pure R134A. If you fill the system with something else and then take it to a shop? Shop will hook up a Freon detector. If it’s not 99% (don’t know the exact #) the shop will turn you away by law they can’t put it in their recovery machine!! Also Please don’t touch a hybrid A/C system If you own any hybrid car or truck or electric car!! You’ll find out how expensive a complete replacement of every component may cost. And have any of you heard about the newest refrigerant R1234yf? It’s flammable! We haven’t had to use our R12 machine in years now we have to buy a 2nd A/C recovery machine. Ugh
 

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I have a detection tool that detects up to 95% purity. I couldn't afford the machines that test up higher than that and figured it's probably good enough. I also have a sealer detector kit.

Yeah, the 1234yf puts us all out of business on the newest cars for now.
 

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Last summer the AC on our 99 was weakening. Also, the blend actuator was making a clicking noise almost constantly. Following a YouTube tutorial I cleaned it and regreased it. That resolved the clicking. Before a long road trip to TX from IL I added refrigerant but possibly overcharged the system. During the trip it would cool and then switch off and blow very hot. Then it would kick back on and blow cold again. We dealt with this during part of the summer. In case it maybe had something to do with the blend actuator, I replaced that. It didn't seem to help but we were soon out of the summer months. During the winter months it has also been acting strangely. At the lower temperature ranges on the dial, it blows the hottest air. Moving up to the higher temperature ranges it is cooler but still hot.

Currently, the system will not blow cold at all. The refrigerant appears to be low. It registers about 25PSI on a refill gauge at the low pressure port. Also, the compressor will not engage at all.

Is there a comprehensive troubleshooting thread available here in the forum somewhere?

Is there any advice on where to start? We're taking our annual TX trip in a few weeks.
 

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I had a very similar experience with my 2003 oddy last year....I got prices from dealers from $700 to $1,800....I decided to do a bit of research and on U-Tube I found the answer.....Under the glove box there is a resistor or transistor I don't remember the correct name is...I can't give you any further clues cause my computer crashed with all the info....The receipts are in my trailer in Clearwater and I am in N.E. for the summer.....BTW the price for the part at the dealer was
$168.00......I found a site on line that sells original Honda parts for $56.00....It took me less than an hour to change the part.
You will not be able to recharge your A/C until you replace the part as the compressor will not work till you replace the part.
Good Luck...Vitto
 
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