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Discussion Starter #1
Allow me to preface this by stating that I have read other threads on this topic for hours...I just bought my first ODY today (8/26/2010). The dealer told me he had just put in a rebuilt transmission. I test drove it a couple days before on mostly flat roads and it was great. After making the purchase, I experienced a shifting issue. It only occurs between 1st and second gear, either from a dead stop on an uphill grade, or when accelerating a bit more aggressively on flatter terrain. The transmission stays in first gear too long, and then seems to slam into second. I wouldn't call this "slipping", which has been referred to in other posts. The dealer did tell me that the trannys have been notoriously bad due to inferior 'glues' used in the manufacturing of the original plates. He said the newly installed transmission has plates that shouldn't fall apart. This makes me think that the screens may not be clogged, but perhaps someone here could help me out a bit more. Why would my tranny hang up in a gear until it suddenly grabs the next?
Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Wow! I continued reading and found an old post from user 'Theojo'. Although he owns a '98, it could all possibly relate. Does anyone know of any major differences are between a 98 and 99 4 speed auto transmission?
 

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Thanks Greg. Just curious why it will shift hard for the first 1000 mi.? Your thoughts? As far as the cooler, would that be mounted (follow me here) between the grill and radiator, or radiator and engine, or elsewhere....it looks fairly small, providing many possible mounting locations.
 

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Have an 01. Yes under anything less than light throttle, 1st gear revs higher (3500-4000RPM) than other shifts (2500-3000RPM) at same throttle position. According to the owners manual ( I think thats where I read it) it has to do with emissions control. I've always been bothered by it, but don't know if its possible to reflash ECM to change. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Your description sounds like what I'm experiencing. Is your transmission rebuilt or original?
Your thought on flashing the ECM is interesting. I own a diesel truck that I use for my tree service, and have it tuned for fuel economy. I understand that there is a procedure called 'live tuning' in which a progammer will connect a computer to the ECM and ride with you as you navigate various driving conditions. Adjustments can be made to set the ECM properly. I'm not sure if this service is available for an Odyssey, but I will look into it. I can imagine that it may be somewhat expensive, but most likely worth it if it saves a transmission. I'll re-post soon about live tuning.
 

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Tree Guy said:
Thanks Greg. Just curious why it will shift hard for the first 1000 mi.? Your thoughts? As far as the cooler, would that be mounted (follow me here) between the grill and radiator, or radiator and engine, or elsewhere....it looks fairly small, providing many possible mounting locations.
It's the clutch packs that need to break in over that first 1000 miles or so. Many here have experienced the same thing after getting rebuilds.

As for the cooler, I mounted mine out in front of the a/c condenser behind the grill and changed out the fluid for amsoil synthetic.
 

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Tree Guy, it is the original trans 103K, owned since new. The van has shifted this way from day 1. Due for a trans fluid change now. Off topic also time for timing belt, water pump, spark plugs.
 

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This sounds like the issue I had on mine after replaced. You can read at this post: post
Ever since they found the loose connection is has shifted great, over 3 years and 40k ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Mike, thanks for that bit of info. That's quite interesting. In an earlier reply of this thread, I was told things should smooth out after 1000 miles of breaking in a rebuilt transmission. I've currently driven 300 miles since buying it and things already seem to be smoothing out a little. We'll see after a few more hundred weather or not I should dig deeper. Curious, Mike, what is your scanguage (make/model/approximate cost)?
 

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Just to relate, my 2000 Odyssey has over 200,000 miles and is on its original transmission. It also shifts at high RPM out of first and into second. Personally, I find I have to be VERY light on the throttle taking off or else it'll upshift at about 3000-3500 RPM. It bothers me, too, but it's been doing that for the past 70,000 miles or so and performance otherwise has not changed.
 

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Tree Guy said:
Mike, thanks for that bit of info. That's quite interesting. In an earlier reply of this thread, I was told things should smooth out after 1000 miles of breaking in a rebuilt transmission. I've currently driven 300 miles since buying it and things already seem to be smoothing out a little. We'll see after a few more hundred weather or not I should dig deeper. Curious, Mike, what is your scangauge (make/model/approximate cost)?
Let me start by saying when my tranny went bad it was revving up between 1st & 2nd. When I got it back I had the slamming (not slipping) that only happened now and then. I could make it do it everytime by gradually pushing the throttle harder while accelerating. I would compare the slam to revving the car in neutral while moving and dropping it into 2nd. We drove it for a couple weeks like that because like you we read it may be harsh at first.

As for the Scangauge, I've had it for maybe 7 years. It's the larger model so may not be Scangauge 2. i think it was around $120 at the time. I like the smaller version they have now. They say I can send it in for an upgrade to get like 10% off, not worth it. Although, I see you can now have XGAUGE on it which allows reading the transmission temp...hmm.
 

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You can only read the parameters which are supported by the OBD-II implementation of your specific vehicle.

As far as I know Hondas don't report engine oil or transmission oil temperature.

They certainly are not available for generic OBD-II tool and I am not sure if Honda specific tool can extract them either.

If Honda specific scanner can get hose PIDs, then somebody could reverse engineer the PID and *then* XGauge can get them.

- Vikas
 

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It would be nice if it worked. I won't be replacing my Scangauge until it breaks anyway. It is pretty beat looking though.
 
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