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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys have seen all your previous threads but want some advice and guidance on my honda shuttle (1998) abs light problem. Have attempted to obtain code via diagnostic plug, but obtaining no flashing light when following the instructions found in previous threads. Light goes out following starting the car up but then comes on after a short distance and it seems that braking or any other input that i have makes any difference to the light coming on. I am confident that the car could idle all day and the light would not come on. I have removed the cleaned both the sensor and connector which has made no difference.

Any advice would be very appreciated.

Regards Trevor
 

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Search in the 95-98 forum (too many 2nd/3rd gen'ers here to confuse things!!) You have shorted the blue diagnostic plug which is located under the passenger glove box? The ABS light should flash a code when you turn the ignition switch on (no need to start the car)
This link has good details and the codes that can be generated.
 

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Moved to the 95 - 98 forum to reduce said confusion. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
hi have tried using paper clip in diagnostic blue plug but when ignition tuned on not starting engine i am not getting any flashing lihts on dashboard to indicate problem, thank you for your quick response hope you can help with any further ideas cheers
 

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My Odyssey family has had multiple ABS issues and all are the rear wheel speed sensors. In the last 2 years I must have replaced about 6 of them and now there are two more waiting to be replaced. (none twice, just different sides)
 

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Grayslake

kernel said:
Search in the 95-98 forum (too many 2nd/3rd gen'ers here to confuse things!!) You have shorted the blue diagnostic plug which is located under the passenger glove box? The ABS light should flash a code when you turn the ignition switch on (no need to start the car)
This link has good details and the codes that can be generated.
I just won an ebay auction for an Ody located in Grayslake!
 

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Did you ever figure out what the problem is? I too have the same problem. Turn the van and no problem, back out no problem, as soon as I start going forward, ABS light turns on accompanied by a clicking sound coming from under the glove box. I replaced the left rear wheel sensor (second time) bercause I thought that is where the problem lay, but the light still comes on. HELP.
 

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If you have an ABSS light showing, and no codes are coming up aftet the paper clip trick, then I'd have the car checked by a professional.

Sorry,. Just got home fro m the bar:D
 

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I have yet to do the paperclip test- today I hope. But here is how I figured it might be the sensor. I jacked up each wheel and spun it with the engine running. Only one wheel made the ABS light come on- the rear left, so I replaced the sensor- with the help of my Honda mechanic friend. (He is as baffled as I am that the new sensor didn't fix the problem since the light still comes on once the car is moving forward or rear left wheel is spun) I probably replaced a good sensor. But where do I go next?

Ok, I did the paperclip test and it is Code 4-4. ( rear RIGHT wheel sensor)
Is that the wierdest thing ever? I did the wheel spin test as stated above and the Driver side rear(left) wheel made the light come on. But the diagnostic shows Code 4-4, Passenger (right) wheel sensor. How could that be? Should the code not be the same as the wheel that make it show a fault? Could the wires be crossed?

Next I will try to check both rear sensors with Ohmmeter to see if there is a difference.

Any ideas?
 

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If you jack any wheel up (no matter if the sensors are good or bad), and spin a wheel with the ignition ON, the light should come on after a certain amount of time.

The wheels are suppost to spin in synchronized order to each-other. The computer can determine if a particular wheel is spinning at an odd rate, and it will throw a light.

Example:
I have an '06 GTO with all wheel ABS. I replaced the stock 17" rims with 18" rims. With the new rims, I got new tires. The rear tire stance is about 2" higher than the fronts. I drove around the block, and my ABS light came on because the front wheels were spinning at a different rate that what the rear wheels were spinning. The computer noticed that, and activated the light.

That doesn't mean that a sensor is bad. It's just saying that one or more wheels are turning out-of-sync.

Ever put the spare (donut tire) on your car and get an ABS light shortly after driving again? I have! My spare was much smaller than the other tires, and the computer recognized it as soon as I drove a short distance.

How does this relate to you? You can jack up any wheel and spin it with the ignition turned ON. Once the computer recognizes one wheel is spinning at a different rate then the other tires, the ABS light "should" show...no matter if the sensor is bad or not.

This explains why we have the paperclip trick. It reads if there's a problem in the system before you try your own diagnostics and spend a ton of money replacing a non-defective part.

Maybe I'm still feeling the alcohol though. Just got home ;)
 

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rear sensor chasing

FWIW I was getting 4-8 (rear left sensor). Replaced rear left sensor and first test drive showed abs light. Diagnostic now shows both 4-8 & 4-4 (rear right). Cleared abs computer (remove fuse) and now only 4-4 shows up. The computer will hold up to 3 faults. I wonder why the 4-4 didn't surface until I replaced rear left to address the 4-8 code?
 

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Hockeyman, thanks for the reply. Interestingly, the only wheel that made the light come on again and again was the right left. Maybe I didnt spin the others long enough like you suggested.
What I should have done is read this thread first, then make diagnosis. My mechanic didn't know about the paperclip test. Back in the day, before this van was an antique, they used the diagnostic tool at the dealership. So I may have ordered the wrong part. At least I didn't order the modulator thinking it was at fault. $$$$$
I will do the ohmmeter test for each rear sensor as soon as I get a chance. That will narrow it down dont you think? Should I pull the fuse to clear the code, drive the van, and papercliptest it again?
BTW, I got my ABS wheel sensor for $119 from www.yourhondaparts.com and had it in 4 days.

treat44, did you end up getting yours working ok?
 

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not yet

Will attempt to install RR sensor this weekend. The grinding out of knuckle was a PITA on the rear left, but my dremel was key. I just find it interesting that I got a 4-4 after fixing a 4-8 code!
 
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