Adding EX-L style USB charging to an EX

Well, I went ahead and added two additional USB charging ports for the second row. I used mostly OEM parts so it looks stock, but I ended up wiring it back to the front fuse box instead of using standard wiring harness. The EX has a charging port in the console next to the USB data port. If I wanted to use completely stock wiring I would have lost that USB port. I guess the EX-L doesn't have a charging port inside the console (other than the data port).

I did end up ordering an extra full front console wiring harness so I could get the goofy little connector to the USB module. Seems like a waste, but it was only about $20. The whole project was about $150.

The parts I ordered were
32118-THR-A21 (front wiring harness -- purchased only to get the connector to the USB module)
39113-THR-A01 (USB module)
39115-THR-A21 (Holder Assembly -- this is the part with the nice flip down covers for the USB ports)
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]83430-THR-A31ZA (This is the panel on the back of the console with a cutout for the USB ports)[/FONT]

BikingBrian said:

I know this post is old, but just wanted to let you guys know that it was helpful to me in adding USB ports at the back of the center console of my 2018 EX.

Adding Middle Row USB Ports to 2018 Honda Odyssey | BikingBrian

Now onto wireless charging, but I'll add to an existing thread on that.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the guide! I just installed a set myself and wanted to mention a few tips for those that follow albeit coming from a novice in car modification.

Once you have the 4 console bolts removed, you can tilt up the console allowing your fingers to get between the floor and the the rear panel (for identification search center console rear trim or part # 83421-THR-A01ZB but it's essentially what you see below). I was able to pull the bottom toward the back of the van and the three lower clips came off really easy but the top clips are a bit of a problem. There is a horizontal clip attaching the rear panel to main body of the console (Box Assembly Part # 83428-THR-A01ZB) and there is also a vertical clip that attaches the rear panel to the top panel (Panel assembly with cup holders part # 83416-THR-A11ZA) on the console so you really need to pop off the top trim before you can fully remove the rear panel. I was lucky and pulled hard on the bottom of the rear panel and it popped off the top panel at the same time but it could have very well snapped a clip or two instead.

Finally found time to work on this.

The green connector has four pins, pin #1 is the one closest to the edge of the housing.

Pin #1 = no connection (does not go anywhere on the board)
Pin #2 = "turn on" signal, can be connected to ACC (or IGN) to turn on when the vehicle is on, or directly to Battery+ to have it always on
Pin #3 = Battery+ (12V+)
Pin #4 = Battery- (GND)

Seems to work OK - my Pixel 5 connects (ironically) using Apple's 2.4 amp charging protocol (the phone was pretty much charged so wasn't drawing much power). Fairly substantial voltage drop though (but it might just be my cheap USB tester - I didn't check with my meter).

Unfortunately winter arrived so I'm not sure when I'll get a chance to install it. Hopefully before Christmas. I'll update this thread with the van side wiring once I get into the console.

It was warm the other day so I got this installed.

Originally my plan was to wire it to an Add-A-Fuse in fusebox above the driver's footwell.

I did a little research and found that in a factory install it shares a common B+ (12V), B- (GND) and ACC/IGN with the USB charger inside the console. With this in mind I took the top and rear panels off the console (easy to do, need a plastic trim removal tool kit and a phillips screwdriver - start the top piece at the back). After also removing the front panel and the tray insert it is relatively easy to find the connector for the inside console USB charger (this connector will also plug directly into the 2nd row USB charger). Black is B- (GND), Purple is ACC/IGN, and Beige is B+ (12V). My thought at this point was to make a "Y" adapter using 0.1" connectors and 20AWG wire (one male to two females).

Then I noticed an unused connector under the tray insert, which turns out to be the connector for the optional wireless charger (with five wires in it). A bit more probing around revealed that it also had the three required wires on it: Black is B- (GND), Purple is ACC/IGN, and the large White (next to the Purple) is B+ (12V). The small Green/White appear to be a CANbus connection. As I never plan to install wireless charging and this connector was super easy to work with I decided to harvest it to power the 2nd row dual USB charger instead.

I ended up cutting the connector off (disconnect your battery negative first) and carefully individually isolating and securing the CANbus connectors out of the way (cut them the same length). Then I grabbed a pre-wired three pin female 0.1" connector and soldered the ends of the three wires (I used a ~8" length, which worked out perfectly) onto the B-, B+, and ACC/IGN and heatshrinked everything. It was easy to route through the side on the console (pop the top of the sides off) to where it needed to go.

After that it was just a matter of removing the blank panel and installing the dual USB charger into the rear console panel (two screws and four clips), plugging it in, testing it, and reinstalling and the console trim pieces.

I believe the wireless charger fuse (now my 2nd row USB charger fuse) is B18 (under-hood fuse box).

Any of the three methods would have worked, they all have their own pros and cons.

All in it cost me less than US$50 to install OEM 2nd row USB charging.