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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I was hoping someone could help me diagnose why my odyssey is rattling like crazy.

I've done some searches here from people with similar issues and I've found 3 possible causes - the first is bolts loosening -yikes, I don't think that is the issue - I checked the mounting bolts up top, the second is needing shims but this isn't a squeak or scratch, its a rattle and the 3rd is new ball joints which I probably need but didn't notice before I replaced the struts. I've also seen people say they have had the same thing and couldn't resolve the problem after multiple dealer trips and have just lived with it.

I replaced the struts with Monroe Sensatrac, the swing arm links with Moog and the strut mounts with whatever brand recently - tightened everything up to specifications and immediately after the installation I've been hearing what I can best describe as just rattling whenever I'm turning or hitting bumps.

Not a clunk, not a squeak - just a general rattling.

I used Moog swing arm links that I think are fundamentally different than the originals - first of all they have grease fittings - which is a good thing I guess but inside they have ball joints (?) which allows the connecting bolt to move.

I don't believe the original was like this and I just wonder if that is the reason I'm hearing this excessive rattling whenever I drive.

I have to say that the rear end rattles as well after replacing the shocks with Monroes. The rear end almost sounds like my rear hatch door is loose but I've checked it and it appears solid.

Its frustrating to say the least especially when my wife asks me if the car is going to fall apart as we drive down the road.
 

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You said that everything was tightened to spec, which I assume means with a torque wrench, but did you do so with the suspension loaded? Or was the car still up in the air? I ask because in the past I've seen issues like this when the bolts were torqued with the car still jacked up off the ground. Doing so and then setting the car down on its wheel can make those torque settings incorrect and often loose.

What I've learned to do it to tighten everything snugly, then put the wheel on and use a Jack to compress the suspension by jacking under the tire or setting it down on a ramp, and then going under the car and torquing to spec. This way (which can be a serious pain and in some cases admittedly just won't be possible), the torque is to spec with the car's typical weight/load on the suspension components and the rattles are usually gone.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
admittedly, no I did it while the car was on jack stands

I will crawl up under that beast and try again. Ugh, I don't want to take that plastic cover off underneath the wipers again. I just caulked it to make it waterproof.
 

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Try just retorquing those bolts in the wheelwells first. There's a lot more movement down there and that may be the source of most of your noises. It may take care of all of it. You still may have to hit the top strut bolts too since weight on them may affect the torque you applied but I'd start down below first and see if you can cure it there first. Always try the easier ones first:)
 

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Did you remove the front brake calipers to change the struts? Sometimes after removing them the shims loosen up and make for rattling. If the rattling stops when you press on the brakes then that is most likely your culprit. Just something to check.
 

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Tighten all the bolts down repeatedly both before and after dropping the car. Screw tourque, make it tight as hell.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
sure enough, crawled underneath and had bolts loose in the front and back.

tightened them up and no rattles.

took the 10 year old + van on a 700 miles road trip, averaging 27.35mpg at 74mph.

Rolled over 180K miles on the original transmission.
 
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