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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone here have experience with Beck-Arnley? The left front caliper on my 02 EX had a seized slider pin. I could not release it with penetrating oil and hammering/twisting like hell. I needed a new caliper quickly so I got this one at Advance Auto. There were a few minor problems; the caliper had a different thread pitch than OEM so I ended up having to go to a hardware store to get new 12mm bracket mounting bolts. Also the tabs that anchor the banjo bolt had to be dremeled a bit to accept the brake line. No big deal. I also replaced all four of my rotors since the originals had 156K miles and had some lipping present. Also installed all new ceramic pads all around. Throw in new front lower control arms bilaterally for good measure as the bushings on the originals were shot.

The BIG DEAL is that after mounting, brake hose replacement, and brake fluid bleed, the caliper is dragging terribly. With the car on stands, the wheel turns freely with a slight metallic rub, but there is a bone chilling metallic grating as the car is driven (without hitting the brakes but even worse if the brakes are applied) and the caliper and rotor are way hot after driving just 500 ft. I don't even feel comfortable enough to drive far enough to bed the pads in. It seems like the caliper is not releasing after letting off the brake pedal.

Any comments as to where I may have gone wrong? I'll admit it was hard to get the lower ball joint to release when I was changing the control arms and I hammered the arm like 50 times. I eventually broke them loose with the stomping method. Could I have messed up my CV joint or my hub? I have tested both new caliper slide pins and they slide cleanly.

I have spent about 15 hours on the car over the last few days. I probably should have just ordered an OEM caliper in the first place; probably gonna do that tonight....
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Just drove it again. It is definitely the caliper binding on the rotor. I came home after a short drive and jacked the car up and spun the wheel and the caliper was dragging and producing the howling grating sound. Do you need to lube the piston of a brand new caliper?
 

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You made me smile thinking back to a friend who installed one brake pad backwards. He placed the metal side toward the rotor and didn't realize it. It only took a couple of runs to destroy the new rotor and messed up the back of the brake pad. And no, it wasn't covered under warranty. :)

What probably happened in your case is the rebuilt caliper you received was simply bad. If the piston inside the caliper is bent it will not release correctly. It could have been bent by it being forced in, incorrectly. You always want to make sure a C-clamp in centered and doesn't push the piston back on an angle. Beck is a decent name, and I've used plenty of rebuilt calipers. I've even rebuilt a few myself, which I do not recommend you do.

To recover, squeeze off the rubber brake line with a vise grip. Be careful not to damage the line by making the vise grips too tight. Remove the caliper, and tell Advanced you want it replaced. Bench bleed the new one the best you can, and always avoid moisture when working with brake fluids. After it's replaced, bleed it well and remove all air bubbles. A one man bleeder kit for a few bucks can really help a novice. The replacement will likely solve your problem. Also make sure the pads are installed correctly, and on the correct side of the car. I don't remember on the Odyssey, but some cars have different inside and outside pads. They can be reversed if you put the left pads on the right side of the car, and the right on the left. The difference is usually where the wear indicator pin is placed. You don't want the wear indicator in a spot where it will jam between the caliper piston and the brake mounting hardware. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It turns out I was not very observant. I ended up removing the hub to install a new wheel stud and after reinstalling, I crawled under the knuckle assembly to check alignment and realized it was the bottom of the rotor shield that had been rubbing on the inner side of the rotor. It had probably gotten bent during the ball joint removal process. Bent it back gently with some pliers and voila! No more rubbing! The setup fells great now. I have a nice firm brake pedal where I had mush before
 
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