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I have a 2005 Odyssey Touring (with Nav) wife called me yesterday and said the air stopped working. Fan stayed on and blew ambiant air. I got in the van this morning and the air blew cold for about 5 minutes then dropped to ambiant temp, fan continiued to blow.

Any ideas???

Thanks,
 

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Two possibilities:

1. Either a rock knocked off your AC Condenser, in this case it is bad new. Read through this thread:

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=40871

or...........

2. This was my case....Not sure this would help but I think it may well be bad AC Clutch and Stator.

In early August 2010, while on vacation in Hilton Head SC, my 2007 Ody just developed bad AC clutch at 37 months and 34K miles, after some negotiation with Honda USA, they split the cost of repair:
I paid 50% of the $600 bill = $300.

Not happy but better than $600.

I have owned many cars, the AC Clutch usually fails after 150K miles, not at 34K miles!

In my case, they had to remove the compressor, so the need to evacuate and then recharge with R134a.

From my reading of your post, this job by itself (replacing the AC clutch) does not require evacuating R134a but the space is tight in a FWD transverse engine, so they often remove the compressor to make it easier.

Anyway, next time if the AC clutch goes out, I will DIY: simply loosen the compressor mounting bolts and angle it down a bit to replace the AC Clutch, this way I do not have to evacuate R134a.

These are the parts Honda replaced on my 2007 LX:

38900-RGM-A01...CLUTCH SET....$130 online
38924-RGL-A01...STATOR SET....$58 online


Normally you don't need to evacuate R134a to install these parts because they are basically mechanical parts on the pulley. However, the space on the Ody is very tight and the compressor should be removed (serpentine belt needs to be removed etc.). In the process of removal, the R134a needs to be evacuated and when done, recharged with R134a.

If your mechanic can find a way to install these parts without removing the compressor, it would save a lot of money.

First thing first, go buy a AC kit ($15) at local autoparts store and measure your AC pressure, if the pressure reads nothing, see #1 above. Here is info on the AC recharge kit:

http://www.idqusa.com/proddetail.php?prod=GBM-2CS

Let us know the outcome!
 

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My AC went on 2007 and it was the rear AC line that got corroded. There is a TSB on it, I believe it cost me around $300 to fix.
 

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Measure voltage at stator's connector. If there is 12 volts there when fans are on then the stator is bad.

I did the angle down change but it is a pia,,, saved a lot of money. IT's better to get van up on a lift, I first tried it in my driveway on jack stands. Once I got it up higher it's workable.

BUT IT"S A PIA... work with a local garage after you buy the parts,, worth the $100 or so in labor. DON"T BUY OR USE a local Honda dealer,, they will rip you for $600 plus... mad: :mad:

:D :D :



cnn said:
Two possibilities:

1. Either a rock knocked off your AC Condenser, in this case it is bad new. Read through this thread:

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=40871

or...........

2. This was my case....Not sure this would help but I think it may well be bad AC Clutch and Stator.

In early August 2010, while on vacation in Hilton Head SC, my 2007 Ody just developed bad AC clutch at 37 months and 34K miles, after some negotiation with Honda USA, they split the cost of repair:
I paid 50% of the $600 bill = $300.

Not happy but better than $600.

I have owned many cars, the AC Clutch usually fails after 150K miles, not at 34K miles!

In my case, they had to remove the compressor, so the need to evacuate and then recharge with R134a.

From my reading of your post, this job by itself (replacing the AC clutch) does not require evacuating R134a but the space is tight in a FWD transverse engine, so they often remove the compressor to make it easier.

Anyway, next time if the AC clutch goes out, I will DIY: simply loosen the compressor mounting bolts and angle it down a bit to replace the AC Clutch, this way I do not have to evacuate R134a.

These are the parts Honda replaced on my 2007 LX:

38900-RGM-A01...CLUTCH SET....$130 online
38924-RGL-A01...STATOR SET....$58 online


Normally you don't need to evacuate R134a to install these parts because they are basically mechanical parts on the pulley. However, the space on the Ody is very tight and the compressor should be removed (serpentine belt needs to be removed etc.). In the process of removal, the R134a needs to be evacuated and when done, recharged with R134a.

If your mechanic can find a way to install these parts without removing the compressor, it would save a lot of money.

First thing first, go buy a AC kit ($15) at local autoparts store and measure your AC pressure, if the pressure reads nothing, see #1 above. Here is info on the AC recharge kit:

http://www.idqusa.com/proddetail.php?prod=GBM-2CS

Let us know the outcome!
 

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fender4 said:
...I did the angle down change but it is a pia,,, saved a lot of money. IT's better to get van up on a lift, I first tried it in my driveway on jack stands. Once I got it up higher it's workable....
I am curious to know how you did it because in the Honda Pilot forum, similar issues! People say it is doable but it is a PITA as you said when replacing the AC Clutch without removing the Compressor from the car as this saves money.

I wonder if you can unmount the AC compressor (leaving the lines attached), then hang it with some solid electrical wire to support it so it angles down for the AC Clutch change.
 

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Remove pully bolts then release the drive belt. The compressor needs to be solid mounted against something/leave bolted to engine or tilt down. Tapping on the pulley while turning it will slowly work it off the shaft. I thought I could use a special pulley removel tool but there is not enough room. It's a very slow tapping process but only works if the compressor is mounted firmly. It took two of us, one held the compressor the other did the tapping.

BUT it saved big bucks,,, it's the old saying "If you have a lot of time, you can save alot of money"






cnn said:
I am curious to know how you did it because in the Honda Pilot forum, similar issues! People say it is doable but it is a PITA as you said when replacing the AC Clutch without removing the Compressor from the car as this saves money.

I wonder if you can unmount the AC compressor (leaving the lines attached), then hang it with some solid electrical wire to support it so it angles down for the AC Clutch change.
 

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fender4 said:
Remove pully bolts then release the drive belt. The compressor needs to be solid mounted against something/leave bolted to engine or tilt down. Tapping on the pulley while turning it will slowly work it off the shaft. I thought I could use a special pulley removel tool but there is not enough room. It's a very slow tapping process but only works if the compressor is mounted firmly. It took two of us, one held the compressor the other did the tapping.
I am just wondering if you could place a few bricks on the ground while the compressor is being lowered to support it.

Then work on the AC Clutch?
 

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cnn said:
I am just wondering if you could place a few bricks on the ground while the compressor is being lowered to support it.

Then work on the AC Clutch?
AC lines will limit compressor drop. Once you see how little room there is you might just call a small shop and have them do it.
 

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Not sure about Honda and not sure about tapping but to change the alternator of my Maxima, the shop manual suggests to unbolt the compressor and let it hang on the A/C lines and move it out of the way to drop the alternator down. Installation of the alternator is reverse of removal.
 

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Follow-up...

In August 2010, the AC Clutch went out and this was replaced by dealer A in South Carolina.

Now it is May 2011, the AC Clutch went out again and will be fixed under warranty. Dealer B now says when the AC Clutch went out last year, dealer A should have done the whole thing:

1- AC Clutch ($300 parts + $300 labor = $600)

2- Check and clean the AC Compressor for debris, if the whole R134a system is contaminated, then they replace the whole AC system: AC Compressor, AC lines, Condenser, Evaporator = $3000 total.

I have doubt about #2 above!

I always though AC Clutch is an electro-mechanical component and has basically “nothing to do” with the compressor/R134a issue, i.e., when the AC clutch goes bad it is because the part is bad and not caused by the AC compressor.

My $1M question is: can a bad AC compressor cause AC Clutch damage?
Any advices?
 

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the #2 is BS,, this is now the standard AC crap htat going around,, friggin debris WTH , just replace compressor if it's not pumping,,, if the the stator is bad again why not just replace it again,,

My friends 2004 ODY had a small hole in the high pressure side hose,, they told him debris and replaced everything,, a week latter he went back and they saw the small hole,,ooopss replaced hose , go figure,,
 

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sounds like you are getting the clutch coil replaced under warr. good. this is exactly what happened to me. only the clutch coil is likely bad, not the clutch as well. the clutch coil engages the clutch. it is a $80 MSRP part sold from online reputable etailers for like $60. I found a local shop guy willing to do the job with the compressor still installed for 2 hours labor so $160 labor. of course I had to pay him the full msrp part price as well at $80. people on this site helped me greatly to self-diagnose the problem.

ONLY if the compressor is completely removed would you have opened up the system thus why trying to do it on the car is preferred. even if it's removed completely, should not have to replace everything! that is BS on #2. maybe....the dryer element. the coil is an electromagnet that when energized, magentically pulls the clutch plate on the pulley and engages the comp shaft and thus the mechanical compressor.

it IS INDEED a slow patience required task to get the clutch off and on as it is essentially pressed on with very tight tolerance. go slow. little at a time. I didnt have the nerves to do this one myself. not to save $160.

BTW, all my local dealers ALL said they would completely remove the comp and have to deal with recharge, etc. min $600. and get this! said often the shaft is broken on the comp so IF that were to happen, then new comp so est was $1300!! I was thankful my bill total from local indie willing to try the right thing for the customer was ony $240. I even tipped him a lunch!
 

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Replaced a stator this weekend

This lpast weekend, I replaced the stator in my wife's 2005 Odyssey. I jacked up the car, secured it with jackstands and removed the under engine shield. Once I removed the compressor boly, the clutch lifted right off. I was surprices by this because most of what I have read says this is the tough part. The pully didn't want to come off. I tapped the pully from the backside with the end of a hammer handle while turning the compressor shaft with the clutch loosely held in place. Once the pulley was off, the tough part was getting the spring clip out to get the stator out. Access to this was the only reason I had to unbolt the compressor. Everything went back nice and easy. Make sure you do not lose the shim washer in the clutch hub. It was a relief when I started the engine and cold air once again blew from the vents.

It took several hours, but I wouldn't be afraid to do it again. I just hope I don't have to.
 
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