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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I’m about to jump into replacing the alternator and ps pump. I’ve looked into removing the serpentine belt but I’m not sure all that goes into that when replacing the alternator and ps pump.
Can I loosen the belt from above?
What do I need to worry about when putting the serpentine belt back on (ie like putting a new one on)?
These are questions I have as I start. There may be more as I go.
 

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I was able to get to mine from the top or bottom. It's snug to get in there, but once you get a 19mm(?) socket and a breaker bar on it. it's pretty simple.
I believe the tensioner is different on the A6 and A7 engines, so I can only speak for the A7's.
 

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If you are going to replace the alternator, then the serpentine belt is the least of your worry. I have always been able to get the belt from the top.

Your replacement alternator should be OEM or Denso alternator, or you will likely repeat the job again. The hardest part of the alternator job is getting it out without damaging the aluminum AC line. The AC line has to flex a little for the alternator to pass thru.
 
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I just took out the belt. 2010 EX model (A6). Just release the tension with a 14mm and a extension bar.

Looking for a DIY for this. I started a new thread about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Jerryrigger,
That’s what has been confusing. I’ve read that you need either a 19mm or a 14mm. Most videos on YouTube show them loosening from below (which seems like extra steps).
I did get it from above and used a 14mm on the tensioner pulley. I searched all over for that fixed bolt.
I have a 2009 LX, so an A6.
Thanks Celicool, the tight work space is definitely going to be my biggest issue. I will be mindful of the AC line, thanks for the heads up. I put a new pressure hose on the power steering pump recently and attaching it to the rack and pinion end was frustrating.
Thanks Saneeshd, that was what I ended up doing too.

I’ve got the belt off and removed/moved the two reservoirs. I’ve started in on the power steering pump, I’ll remove that and then go on to the alternator. Hopefully with the pump gone it will give me a little more wiggle room.
Thanks for all of the replies! If there are more questions I’ll be back. Or post an update on being finished!
 

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I'm sure the differences on how to remove the serpentine belt and the size of the socket depends on VCM or Non VCM. On the VCM the tensioner has basically a nut welded to the tensioner, while the Non-VCM use the top pulley's bolt on the tensioner to release the tension.
 

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I did this yesterday (alternator). Some tips..

1) Make sure that you remove the belt tensioner. It makes it easy to take it out. Remove it from the wheel area. Lot easier than doing from top
2) The plastic clip on the alternator (just above the connector to compressor) is a . to come out. Just pry it out. Was one of the toughest one to come out
3) Remove the washer fluid reservoir. I left it hanging (it didn't had that much fluid). To remove this, you need to remove wheel, the plastic parts around it. These plastic parts, connected with clips, need to come out any way for the tensioner.
4) There is a back box under the P/S fluid reservoir. One 10mm bolt. Remove it and move it aside.
5) It is VERY tempting to move the radiator and take it out that way. I spend some time there. DONT go this route. Unless you remove is completely, it wont come out this way.
6) Remove both 10mm bolts holding the AC lines. Both of them, not only the one close to fuse box. There is one behind also. It makes it almost no stress on AC line.

All the best.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the update! I finished the extract and install yesterday too. The install of the new was a lot easier than the extract. As soon as I put the alternator in and tighten it up to spec I thought it would be clear sailing from there.
I just needed to put in the new ps pump. Easy right? Well, tightening the mounting bolts to 17lbs, I sheared a bolt. I knew something was wrong when the torque wrench didn’t yell “uncle” sooner. I felt it get soft and snap.
A new question is:
Does the new bolt need to be stainless?
I had called around for the part and one of the auto parts stores told me to go to a hardware store. He said to make sure it’s stainless. Which is like hunting snipe.
I did find the parts number and ordered it for tomorrow. But, I’m wondering if I could have used a bolt from the hardware store. I was reading some articles and they were more worried about grade then it being stainless.
 
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