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2000 Honda Odyssey w/175.000 miles: While driving emission light came on and D4 indicator light flashed. It was hard to accelerate from a complete stop but would eventually. As I kept driving home, the ABS light, the maintenance light, the TCS light each came on. Then the spedometer, odometer, gas guage and RPM gauges bounced from on end to the other. Then the radio and navigation system shut down, then the air conditioner came on and off and then off for good. I had no turn signals or hazards. When I pulled in my driveway, the car made a choking noise and would go no further. I put it in Park and then car coughed and died. The Honda dealer first diagnosed that the alternator went out but now they called back and said it was the transmission. I have had no problems with the transmission.
 

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2000 Honda Odyssey w/175.000 miles: While driving emission light came on and D4 indicator light flashed. It was hard to accelerate from a complete stop but would eventually. As I kept driving home, the ABS light, the maintenance light, the TCS light each came on. Then the spedometer, odometer, gas guage and RPM gauges bounced from on end to the other. Then the radio and navigation system shut down, then the air conditioner came on and off and then off for good. I had no turn signals or hazards. When I pulled in my driveway, the car made a choking noise and would go no further. I put it in Park and then car coughed and died. The Honda dealer first diagnosed that the alternator went out but now they called back and said it was the transmission. I have had no problems with the transmission.
Did the charging indicator ever come on??? I think the dealer is right on this one... it sounds more like a transmission failure than an alternator failure.
 

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I don't believe so. Does the transmission going out cause failure in all the gauges, a/c, radio, etc? Now the dealership says both the alternator and the transmission are bad and that it's a coincidence that they went out at the same time.
 

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Since when does a transmission issue make electrical issues and the engine die? Easy enough to test the alternator and battery for that matter. One step at a time. If I brought that to a dealer and they told me tranny is bad, fork over 5k I would laugh at them and then leave never to come back but maybe I'm missing something here.
 

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When van was towed into Honda service, they ran a test to determine that alternator was bad but was not able to run ECM diagnostic because it wouldn't keep a charge long enough to do that. Then we asked for a trade-in quote, so they put a power pack boost on van so that salesman could drive it for estimate. They said van started up but when put in gear the RPMs raced and van wouldn't move. Then it was determined to be the transmission. They are not sure what is wrong with the transmission but said that it needs to be replaced. They said that van won't hold a charge long enough to have ECM diagnostics.
 

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Since when does a transmission issue make electrical issues and the engine die? Easy enough to test the alternator and battery for that matter. One step at a time. If I brought that to a dealer and they told me tranny is bad, fork over 5k I would laugh at them and then leave never to come back but maybe I'm missing something here.
You're right... a transmission issue by itself wouldn't cause the engine to die, or the other electrical outages. But it has been known to trigger all the warning light on the dash. That in combination with the Alternator like the dealer said could cause all of this.
 

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Bad alternator caused the computer to malfunction which caused the solenoids on the transmission to malfunction causing unusually quick wear on the clutches. The trans was weak with 175k miles and this just put it over the edge. Computer malfunction also caused the the engine and electrical problems as mentioned.
Makes sense to me, bad alternator caused weak transmission to go bad.
 

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You never know but I would want to make sure the bad alternator didn't create false tranny issues. Change the alternator, reset everything and see how it drives before making a rash decision. My 2cents....
 

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I am having this exact scenario! What did you do? I was thinking it is an electrical problem since I had had no problem with my transmission or alternator(no sluggish starts or dead battery, etc.)
 

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I know this is an old thread, but alternator can absolutely cause transmission and gauge problems. At first, my transmission wouldn't go into gear. I dropped it into 1st and it launched forward for a second and then remained in 3rd gear- even from a stop! Needless to say the 0-60 time is about the same as a 1986 Jugo. (20 seconds or more)
If you are debating tackling the job on your own, once you get the 2 bolts out and pry the alternator out of the bracket, you'll realize it can't be removed from above or below. The vehicle must be jacked up, the passenger wheel removed and the clips holding the front of the plastic inner fender must be removed. Let the inner fender hang down in the front and remove the washer fluid reservoir wiring clip, 2 hoses and two bolts. (the fluid can drain into a container of your choice) Next, remove the one remaining reservoir bolt from the engine compartment and lower it down through the fender. Next, pull up the power steering reservoir and unbolt the bracket from the radiator support. You don't necessarily have to remove the reservoir, but if you do, remove the top hose from the power steering pump shoving paper towels under the unit to collect the fluid that spills. Next, pop off the black wiring conduit and the Black bolt holding the A/C hose bracket in place. These steps will ensures the alternator will slip out right where the power steering reservoir bracket was.

Next big tip! Don't buy an alternator from Advanced Auto. My first unit was defective and I had to repeat all the above steps again! At least the second time, I did in less than half the time (2hrs). I've since read many other threads that bash Advanced Auto alternators. I'm just hoping this new one lasts.
 
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