I am replacing the alternator on my 2006 EX-L RES tomorrow. The car has just under 37k miles. I am also replacing the serpetine belt and the power steering pump which has also gone bad. Should I replace the tensioner too ?? Any tips or advice on the process ?? Thanks !!
Alternator replacement tips ??
itr0754
41 - 60 of 78 Posts
Replaced alternator with a champion alternator on my odyssey 2000 with 256k miles. Was making a whining noise. As I read on the topic, it appear it was a diode or more than one that was damaged. As it was the original alternator I assumed the alternator was finished and it was the problem but I verified first just to make sure that contacts battery to cable and=or cable were fine. Also verified connector to the alternator. Did a resistance test on every wire I could see just to make sure it was not a combination of wire problems and alternator problem. Removing and replacing is quite straight forward. It's a tight fit. No more whining noise. New alternator is working well.
Just replaced the Alternator on my 2006 Ody EXL. It was a bit of a bear to remove.
To get it out, I ended up removing the PS Reservoir, removing the screw holding the neck of the washer fluid, and the final piece was to remove the tensioner. The tensioner was the key in my opinion. Before I removed it I tried several different angles, but just couldn't get it far enough.
The service manual doesn't mention having to remove the tensioner. But I just couldn't get it out without it.
The tensioner in the EXL/Touring is different than the tensioner in the LX/EX. In the EXL there is a stub that protrudes out and that's the piece that I was hitting. Perhaps in the LX/EX you could get by without pulling the tensioner. But to be honest, removing the tensioner really wasn't very difficult, so I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. I didn't remove the lower end of the tensioner (the little hydraulic thing). I simply removed the main bolt holding the pulley piece of the tensioner. That was enough to move it out of the way a bit and get the clearance I needed.
Overall it took longer than I expected. I spent a lot of time trying to remove it before I took out the PS reservoir and the again before taking out the tensioner. If I had just gone ahead and done those two right from the get go it would have been much quicker.
Putting the new one in was much easier. As someone else mentioned, gravity helps a lot... plus I had already removed the reservoir and tensioner as mentioned earlier.
Good luck.
To get it out, I ended up removing the PS Reservoir, removing the screw holding the neck of the washer fluid, and the final piece was to remove the tensioner. The tensioner was the key in my opinion. Before I removed it I tried several different angles, but just couldn't get it far enough.
The service manual doesn't mention having to remove the tensioner. But I just couldn't get it out without it.
The tensioner in the EXL/Touring is different than the tensioner in the LX/EX. In the EXL there is a stub that protrudes out and that's the piece that I was hitting. Perhaps in the LX/EX you could get by without pulling the tensioner. But to be honest, removing the tensioner really wasn't very difficult, so I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. I didn't remove the lower end of the tensioner (the little hydraulic thing). I simply removed the main bolt holding the pulley piece of the tensioner. That was enough to move it out of the way a bit and get the clearance I needed.
Overall it took longer than I expected. I spent a lot of time trying to remove it before I took out the PS reservoir and the again before taking out the tensioner. If I had just gone ahead and done those two right from the get go it would have been much quicker.
Putting the new one in was much easier. As someone else mentioned, gravity helps a lot... plus I had already removed the reservoir and tensioner as mentioned earlier.
Good luck.
I just finished swapping the alternator on my 2007 EX-L and wanted to add a few comments to the thread.
Thanks for the posts. This thread was helpful.
Symptoms were: noise from underhood about a week ago, electrical system light came on yesterday, wife complained, 12V at idle and 13V at 3000-4000 rpm
To relieve the serpentine belt tension, I used the same 1/2" drive torque wrench and 3/4" deep socket that I use for wheel lug nuts. I really don't see what all the fuss is about. It was the easiest part of the job.
The hard part was getting the old alternator out. I ended up doing this:
Removing the trim above the radiator fan (but not the fans). This probably wasn't necessary, but it gave me better access.
Loosening the power steering fluid reservoir (but not disconnecting it) and moving it to the other side of the hood prop
Loosening the mount on the passenger strut tower for the AC line
Removing the screw for the electronic modules under the power steering fluid reservoir (leaving them connected but free to move)
Removing all three screws for the washer fluid reservoir and then pushing it down. This required coming up from underneath in front of the wheel well.
After getting the alternator unbolted, I then had to work it out through the AC line and then up where the power steering and washer fluid reservoirs used to be.
I bought a NAPA replacement alternator since I needed one today and read the negative comments about other stores. Sadly, NAPA seemed to have every connector for the alternator tester except the one needed for mine. Total was a bit more than $200 including AAA discount and tax. I think this is the NAPA brand, not Bosch.
Putting the new alternator in was a cinch compared to getting the old one out.
Van is now idling at about 13.8V.
Total time was a few hours, less than 2 last night taking out the old alternator then a while this morning putting in the new one.
Thanks for the posts. This thread was helpful.
Symptoms were: noise from underhood about a week ago, electrical system light came on yesterday, wife complained, 12V at idle and 13V at 3000-4000 rpm
To relieve the serpentine belt tension, I used the same 1/2" drive torque wrench and 3/4" deep socket that I use for wheel lug nuts. I really don't see what all the fuss is about. It was the easiest part of the job.
The hard part was getting the old alternator out. I ended up doing this:
Removing the trim above the radiator fan (but not the fans). This probably wasn't necessary, but it gave me better access.
Loosening the power steering fluid reservoir (but not disconnecting it) and moving it to the other side of the hood prop
Loosening the mount on the passenger strut tower for the AC line
Removing the screw for the electronic modules under the power steering fluid reservoir (leaving them connected but free to move)
Removing all three screws for the washer fluid reservoir and then pushing it down. This required coming up from underneath in front of the wheel well.
After getting the alternator unbolted, I then had to work it out through the AC line and then up where the power steering and washer fluid reservoirs used to be.
I bought a NAPA replacement alternator since I needed one today and read the negative comments about other stores. Sadly, NAPA seemed to have every connector for the alternator tester except the one needed for mine. Total was a bit more than $200 including AAA discount and tax. I think this is the NAPA brand, not Bosch.
Putting the new alternator in was a cinch compared to getting the old one out.
Van is now idling at about 13.8V.
Total time was a few hours, less than 2 last night taking out the old alternator then a while this morning putting in the new one.
Ugh, what a PITA. Did my '05 Touring alternator yesterday (122k miles - original alt as far as I could tell). Thank you all for the tips here - it took long enough (pretty much all afternoon) with them but I cannot imagine without them. Once I finally quit trying to get it out the front (having loosened the radiator and condenser) and finally moved the tensioner and completely dropped the washer bottle down and had the PS reservoir pulled well to the right (kinda hooked on the hood prop rod) it was fairly easy. Of course my PS fluid had leaked enough around the bottom line to make it a greasy job too - I swear, sometimes I can look like I was hit with a grease balloon after simply changing a dadgum air filter.
Anyway, if you're about to try this for the first time: HEED ALL THE TIPS HERE!! For the '05 Touring at least, the way is to MOVE THE TENSIONER, PS RES and WASHER BOTTLE and then come out the left (passenger side) of the engine. Good luck.
Anyway, if you're about to try this for the first time: HEED ALL THE TIPS HERE!! For the '05 Touring at least, the way is to MOVE THE TENSIONER, PS RES and WASHER BOTTLE and then come out the left (passenger side) of the engine. Good luck.
Thanks so much for all the tips in this thread! I just did my 2005 ex-l removal and install in 1.5hrs. Did not have to remove the tensioner. Removed the bolt from the washer bottle neck so I could bend it out of the way. Removed the 2 bolts holding the AC line so it could move. Removed the PS reservoir from the bracket and after Unbolting the alt, and removing the wires, forced the reservoir with hoses still connected under the AC hose toward the driver side. Then was able to get the alt out by forcing it between the AC hose and the little tab on the tensioner. Just pushed it side to side a little at a time. If the tensioner was removed, it would have been even easier. Then bend the washer bottle neck out of the way, and it came out! Went back in reverse, but easier because of gravit, like someone else said. Just go straight sideways to the passnger side first, then straight up and out. It was tight, but it worked on mine.
Well the Alternator in my 2008 Touring crapped the bed today at 107k. Killed the battery and left the wife stranded. Put a new battery in to get home (only 5 miles or so) but a fair amount of smoke was coming out of the alternator when we got home.
We noticed a slight whining noise about a week ago but no indication anything was going on. I was actually thinking it was the PS O-ring that was sucking air. Looks like the whine was the bearings going bad in the alternator and today it totally failed and drew down the battery to where the car stalled.
I've never had good luck with Autozone or other off brand components. The lifetime warranty doesn't mean crap when you are changing the thing out 2 and 3 times over the years. I can get a new Denso from bernardi for about $450 shipped. The reman from bernardi is only $50 less and then the hassle of the core return, not a good deal IMO. I'm checking with a local place tomorrow that is a Denso dealer about a rebuild. I have had some Denso starters rebuilt from them with good luck at a fair price. Reman Denso from Rock Auto for $207+ shipping.
Any suggestions?
We noticed a slight whining noise about a week ago but no indication anything was going on. I was actually thinking it was the PS O-ring that was sucking air. Looks like the whine was the bearings going bad in the alternator and today it totally failed and drew down the battery to where the car stalled.
I've never had good luck with Autozone or other off brand components. The lifetime warranty doesn't mean crap when you are changing the thing out 2 and 3 times over the years. I can get a new Denso from bernardi for about $450 shipped. The reman from bernardi is only $50 less and then the hassle of the core return, not a good deal IMO. I'm checking with a local place tomorrow that is a Denso dealer about a rebuild. I have had some Denso starters rebuilt from them with good luck at a fair price. Reman Denso from Rock Auto for $207+ shipping.
Any suggestions?
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14,410 Posts
They've gone up a little. I paid $390 for that same alternator last year. Replacing the alternator on the Ody is a bit of a pain in the neck so I didn't want to do it twice or have the wife stranded somewhere. I replaced it before it went out, though, when I heard it start to whine a little bit.
I am basically in the same boat as you and the reman Denso doesn't even come with new bearings. I bought the new OEM alternator.
Honda is **** for picking an OEM with such an early failure rate. I am a bigger sucker for buying their "reliable" vehicle....
For the record, I own 4 vehicles all with over 100k miles. The one domestic vehicle out of four has never left me stranded.....The 3 Hondas have left me stranded 2x each....
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Is all this work done from the top? Or do i have to get under the car?
Joined
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14,410 Posts
If I recall, I did have to get under the car a bit.
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