[matteni]

Help!

Is there anyway to boost my FM Modulator to the same levels as the radio / CD?

I have an aftermarket video system that plugs into the antena on the back of the stock EX CD/radio. Problem is - when listening to the video feed it has to be turned up to FULL BLAST just to hear it.

And - you guessed it - when switching back we blow everyone away!

We have headphones but the kids are too young to use them.

Any way to boost the signal or add some kind of gain controll?

 

[Mel]

Check the documentation for your modulator. My CD-changer is a modulator type and has an adjustment for modulation level. It gets accessed by some strange key sequence, that I can never remember

Mel

 

[Phace]

The problem with FM Modulation

is that to make a louder FM signal, you need a wider frequency variance above and below the carrier frequency. If your transmitter only transmits between a small range of frequency, it will be nearly impossible to jack it up unless you amplify the input signal to the transmitter.

It's convoluted, but the point is that unless you are transmitting a full spread signal of +/- 100khz of the carrier, you are not going to get a full signal. do you know what the specs are of the transmitter?

 

[matteni]

Specs of FM Modulator

Thanks for the reply!

I know it was labeled a radio shack FM modulator but I don't have the specs and didn't do the install. The full unit is a Visteon console entertainment system.

Anyway - the Ody is in the shop for 2 broken doors (1 EX power door that won't close and one front door where the plastic door stop broke) - but when I get it back I will pull the dash and the radio and see if it is adjustable (or maybe I should just look at the instructions in the van 1st!)

Thanks again / Anybody else have some kind of boost or gain controll in case this does not work?

 

[mclarke]

Re: Specs of FM Modulator

Hi Nick; I see you encountered the same problem I had with the Visteon system re: the FM modulator . Before I bought the Visteon system, I briefly had a Clarion FM modulator (never should have sold it) that included a rotary level adjustment to match antenna signal. You may have to toss the Visteon modulator in favour of something better.

I feel your pain about the sliding doors. 1999 EX's had a power door mechanism problem that should have been fixed under warranty on yours. Even after mine were "fixed", the starboard door refused to operate one day. I turned off the power and tried shutting it manually... BIG MISTAKE! It jumped the centre track and gouged a 2 foot long slash in the paint . Repairs were covered under warranty and the Teflon rollers on that door were replaced.

Mike

Thanks for the reply!

I know it was labeled a radio shack FM modulator but I don't have the specs and didn't do the install. The full unit is a Visteon console entertainment system.

Anyway - the Ody is in the shop for 2 broken doors (1 EX power door that won't close and one front door where the plastic door stop broke) - but when I get it back I will pull the dash and the radio and see if it is adjustable (or maybe I should just look at the instructions in the van 1st!)

Thanks again / Anybody else have some kind of boost or gain controll in case this does not work?

 

[matteni]

Info on clarion

Hi Mike!

Yeh same problem with the FM modulator. Problem is my car in on it's 3rd day in the shop on the doors and I can't look at the modulator.

Did the "radio shack" one supplied with the unit have any volume controll?

Does changing the frequency help at all?

Do you have any information on the Clarion unit (where / how much / plug and play with existing radio shack one I have)?

Thanks a million - it really looks stock and gives us center power, a great video solution, and improved cup holder. We love it except for this one SMALL thing!

Thanks in advance!!!

 

[mclarke]

Re: Info on clarion

The FM modulator that came with our unit carries the Visteon label, although the power filter is a Radio Shack part. Changing frequencies did nothing for us. There is no level control on the modulator.

The Clarion unit had RCA line in and antenna in/out, just like the Visteon unit. It included a wiring harness and power switch, but with minor wiring, I'll bet it could be set up to turn on/off via the audio button on the Visteon console.

You can see a picture of it at http://webfolders.mydocsonline.com/Public/fm100s.jpg. The RCA patch cable pictured doesn't come with it.
Mike

Hi Mike!

Yeh same problem with the FM modulator. Problem is my car in on it's 3rd day in the shop on the doors and I can't look at the modulator.

Did the "radio shack" one supplied with the unit have any volume controll?

Does changing the frequency help at all?

Do you have any information on the Clarion unit (where / how much / plug and play with existing radio shack one I have)?

Thanks a million - it really looks stock and gives us center power, a great video solution, and improved cup holder. We love it except for this one SMALL thing!

Thanks in advance!!!

 

[matteni]

We are on to something

OK - since you are WAY smarter then me on this stuff - any idea how one might determine how to turn this on or off with the radio?

Is this propriatary Visteon FM modulator or does someone perhaps make one I could just "plug in" to where the Visteon one is?

Thanks Mike - it is so nice to discuss with someone who knows my pain and has the smarts to get me in the right direction!

 

[mclarke]

Re: We are on to something

Smarts?... Boy, I have you fooled bigtime!

You would NOT want to turn this on/off with the radio, since when the modulator is on, the signal from the antenna is cut off in favour of the audio input from your VCR, DVD, etc. The result would be the worst radio reception imaginable.

Since the Clarion modulator is switched on/off with a rocker switch, there may be a way to modify the wiring on the plug that goes into the Visteon modulator so that the video console could turn the Clarion unit on/off via the speaker button. If I recall correctly, there are more than 2 wires going into the Visteon modulator. That, coupled with the fact that there is an audible "click" from the modulator when it's turned on, leads me to think there may be a relay inside the modulator. If this is the case, I doubt either a plug-in replacement or a Clarion unit would work.

I'll take a look at the pin-out diagram for the console plug tonight and see if I can figure out what wire does what.

Mike

OK - since you are WAY smarter then me on this stuff - any idea how one might determine how to turn this on or off with the radio?

Is this propriatary Visteon FM modulator or does someone perhaps make one I could just "plug in" to where the Visteon one is?

Thanks Mike - it is so nice to discuss with someone who knows my pain and has the smarts to get me in the right direction!

 

[matteni]

Wow - thank you!

Mike - thank you for your extra efforts!!! You are WAY too smart. I am afraid the only thing we have in common is the best color of the best mini van out there!

:cheers:

If you figure this out I will definately have to get you some Starbucks or Amazon gift certificates for your trouble - thank you again for your efforts!!!

 

[mclarke]

Re: Wow - thank you!

I wish I we had the NSX in common instead!

Mike

Mike - thank you for your extra efforts!!! You are WAY too smart. I am afraid the only thing we have in common is the best color of the best mini van out there!

:cheers:

If you figure this out I will definately have to get you some Starbucks or Amazon gift certificates for your trouble - thank you again for your efforts!!!

 

[mclarke]

The large connector that plugs into the bottom of the console has 10 conductors, with 5 of them being for the FM modulator (4 conductors for +/- L&R channels & 1 for modulator logic).

I'll have to conduct some further tests to see if this is a steady-state (always on) or one-shot signal. If it's steady-state, I don't see why another modulator couldn't be substituted (with a few splices. If it's a one-shot signal that instructs the modulator to turn on/off, you're SOL for a modulator swap unless you either rig up a separate power switch for the modulator OR can find one that turns on only when it detect an audio signal from your VCR. I don't know if any company makes one like that, but other Odyclub members may be able to help.

I'll keep you posted.

Mike

 

[matteni]

Thanks Mike!

Thanks Mike - you are awesome.

This is such an awesome OEM looking solution for little kids - I can't wait to make it perfect. Also the roof is clean and ready for an aftermarket sun roof - some day...

When you get this figured out - we can sell it.

50-50???

 

[mclarke]

I've posted 2 images for you to look at. The first is the Visteon FM modulator that came with my console. The second shows the plug that connects to the modulator (left) and the one that plugs into the console, and identifies common conductors. The switched +ve is what Visteon calls "FM modulator logic" and remains on until the audio switch is pressed again. Switched +ve activates a relay inside the modulator that turns on the modulator.

While a replacement modulator could be connected to -ve & switched +ve, there is a strong possibility that the switched +ve does not provide enough current and could even blow the switch inside the console, so it may be best to copy the Visteon method and activate an external relay that controls the replacement modulator. If you're not comfortable doing this yourself, the shop that installed your unit can probably easily do it.

Mike

 

[matteni]

WOW - So close

Mike - thank you!

Awesome!!!

Some quick questions. I want to try this myself.

1) Should I get the clarion unit to try this?
2) Should I go to radio shack electronics and tell them I need to buy a relay?
3) Any advice on how to do the install? Do I need some self tapping wires? Will I be cuttin off the old plug and splicing into it?

I can probably figure this out if you are willing to "hang in there". I totally understand if you don't have the time or think I don't want to try this myself.

Thanks a million!!!

:worship:

 

[mclarke]

Re: WOW - So close

Your comfort level with electronics/electronic components will determine whether you can do this yourself, but it should be pretty easy.


If I were making this mod I would probably get the following parts from Radio Shack:

One 12VDC SPDT (single pole, double throw) relay with appropriate rating (I have no clue what sort of current a modulator draws). These little relays typically need only 30mA to activate, and there is a more expensive, solid state version that uses 15mA.

Small perfboard. It's a lot easier to solder wires onto perfboard pads than onto relay leads. The perfboard make it easier to mount the relay in...

Small, plastic project box. Just large enough to hold the relay and perfboard. These usually have internal slots so the perfboard slides in easily; no glue, bolts, or screws needed.

Rubber grommet. With all the bumps and thumps inside a car, wires can chafe unless isolated from the case with a grommet. Strain relief can be as simple as tying a knot in the wires before they exit the project box.

The project box can be attached with cable ties, velcro, or double sided tape on any sturdy, structural member.


I would probably splice wires rather that use cable taps for this setup, simply because a spliced & soldered wire is never going to work loose. Before cutting wires, I would also test this set-up with patch wires and a voltmeter before wiring it to a replacement modulator or cutting off plugs; just in case...

I'd be willing to try whipping something up for you if you promise to test it thoroughly yourself before installing it (polarity, functionality, etc.). While I'm reasonably confident in my abilities, I don't want to be held liable for melting anything (especially if you're a lawyer!).
mg:

Mike

Mike - thank you!

Awesome!!!

Some quick questions. I want to try this myself.

1) Should I get the clarion unit to try this?
2) Should I go to radio shack electronics and tell them I need to buy a relay?
3) Any advice on how to do the install? Do I need some self tapping wires? Will I be cuttin off the old plug and splicing into it?

I can probably figure this out if you are willing to "hang in there". I totally understand if you don't have the time or think I don't want to try this myself.

Thanks a million!!!

:worship:

 

[matteni]

I promiss!!!!

Mike - wow you are a cool guy!

Not only do you provide a TON of information - but your offer is very generous.

I would love it if you would / could help. Of course I would want to compensate you for your time / parts as well as promiss to test and take 100% of the risk. Your best shot is better then any car audio promiss any day of the week.

If your offer still stands - I will private you for the details of what to order and / or how much I owe you and get your address / etc and will get right on it. If you want to get the stuff yourself I can forward the money before you go shopping so you won't be out. Please let me know what's easiest for you and I will do it ASAP.
:zoom:

Thanks a million! I can't wait to hear Barney the way it was intended!!!

Nick
matteuccin@msn.com

 

[shindog]

Re: Re: WOW - So close

Small perfboard. It's a lot easier to solder wires onto perfboard pads than onto relay leads. The perfboard make it easier to mount the relay in...

Small, plastic project box...

Rubber grommet....

If you get a Bosch or similar style relay, you can get a socket/wire harness with it to eliminate the need for a perf board.
I like solder and heat shrink for connections personally, but it's also OK to use butt connectors if you have a really good crimp tool. (I use a Paladin switchable die/jaw ratcheting type for my crimp jobs)
Another way is just use crimp on spade female receptacles to fit over the spades right on the relay....
Anyhow, just an added thought to try and save time and materials cost....

 

[mclarke]

Re: Re: Re: WOW - So close

How much current does it take to activate the relay and what mounting method would you suggest for it?

Mike

If you get a Bosch or similar style relay, you can get a socket/wire harness with it to eliminate the need for a perf board.
I like solder and heat shrink for connections personally, but it's also OK to use butt connectors if you have a really good crimp tool. (I use a Paladin switchable die/jaw ratcheting type for my crimp jobs)
Another way is just use crimp on spade female receptacles to fit over the spades right on the relay....
Anyhow, just an added thought to try and save time and materials cost....

 

[shindog]

IIRC, ~150ma for the big ones like this:

click here for parts express listing

screw it down to the console unit, or wire tie it under a seat via the mounting flange....