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Curious if anyone runs 5w30 in their 05-2010 regardless of the oil cap and manual 5w20 recommendation. I've seen used oil reports from folks on bobistheoilguy that have even run 0w40 oil with good protection. This isn't to fire up some heated debate about oil choice, just curious as to what people run in their vans.

FWIW I run high mileage 5w20 strictly to help prevent seal leaks and what not. I've run 0w20 a time or two in winter again in high mileage formula.
 

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I am running 5w-20 high mileage mobil 1 in my 07 @ 135k. In my last vehicle @ around 180k miles the oil pressure gauge would dip to almost zero on hot summer days, I went from 5-30 to 10-40 and that solved the problem. Being in San Diego where the coldest temp it sees is 40 degrees thats safe.
Since the odyssey has no pressure gauge not sure I will do the same.
I am using the Fram gold filters think they are the ones designed for synthetic. I had heard that walmarts super tech filters were a great filter for the money, bought one as specd out of their guide and it wouldnt screw on. SNAFU FUBAR and a dozen cuss words later I put the old fram back on it.
 

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I'm using 5W-20 high mileage fully synthetic SuperTech oil. I don't think 5W-30 will necessarily be bad for the car, but I'd prefer to stick with what Honda recommends, especially if the oils cost the same.
 

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I have 5w30 in there right now. I believe prior to 2003, the J35 was running 5w30 through 10w40... What changed? CAFE, IMO...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have 5w30 in there right now. I believe prior to 2003, the J35 was running 5w30 through 10w40... What changed? CAFE, IMO...
CAFE is likely the reason the 3rd gen isn't spec'd for 5w30
I'm using 5W-20 high mileage fully synthetic SuperTech oil. I don't think 5W-30 will necessarily be bad for the car, but I'd prefer to stick with what Honda recommends, especially if the oils cost the same.
I've run Supertech 5w20 a few times with good results. It's fine oil.
I am running 5w-20 high mileage mobil 1 in my 07 @ 135k. In my last vehicle @ around 180k miles the oil pressure gauge would dip to almost zero on hot summer days, I went from 5-30 to 10-40 and that solved the problem. Being in San Diego where the coldest temp it sees is 40 degrees thats safe.
Since the odyssey has no pressure gauge not sure I will do the same.
I am using the Fram gold filters think they are the ones designed for synthetic. I had heard that walmarts super tech filters were a great filter for the money, bought one as specd out of their guide and it wouldnt screw on. SNAFU FUBAR and a dozen cuss words later I put the old fram back on it.
Interesting about the filter not working. What did they recommend? There is no 7317 size in supertech so it would have to be 6607 which is a tad on the small size and the 9688 which would be on the larger size.
 

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I run regular Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-20 year around. 08 EX-L 99k
 

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CAFE is likely the reason the 3rd gen isn't spec'd for 5w30

I've run Supertech 5w20 a few times with good results. It's fine oil.

Interesting about the filter not working. What did they recommend? There is no 7317 size in supertech so it would have to be 6607 which is a tad on the small size and the 9688 which would be on the larger size.
It was the 6607 and it wouldnt screw on to the shaft. Its also possible it was the right filter but the threads were faulty. Maybe it would have worked if I had forced it but you cant blame me for not forcing the issue. (pun intended)
Too bad because the internet "experts" at BITOG claim the current supertech filters are a great buy for the money.
 

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I'm using 5W-20 high mileage fully synthetic SuperTech oil. I don't think 5W-30 will necessarily be bad for the car, but I'd prefer to stick with what Honda recommends, especially if the oils cost the same.
Im with you on that but keep in mind this is the same Honda inc. that introduced the stupid VCM as a benefit to owners but is a royal pain in the ass to anyone keeping the car past 100k miles. Short term benefit to Honda was avoiding CAFE penalties, we pick up the tab later.
Back to our oil, I doubt Honda has engineers studying what the best weight of oil would be for engines approaching 200k miles. While extreme longetivity makes for good anecdotal stories for their reputation, jd power and consumer reports dont reflect such stories and building cars that lasted 40 years would be suicide.
Its a well acknowledged issue by anyone owning a car long term, that a heavier weight of oil can be useful in older engines. At what point you could/should switch varies. They spec lighter weight oils now both for fuel economy and because of tighter machining tolerances. A heavier oil would thus cause unlubricated parts to fail.
From my experience with my last vehicle, it seems once the oil pump wore to a certain point it could no longer generate sufficient pressure.
While we have no oil pressure gauge on the panel, is there one that the ECU sees we could access through OBD scanner?
I hesitate to add a mechanical one, that seems to be a solution looking for a problem you will create.
 

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I am not worried about bearings... I never see people with bottom-end problems on this forum. Oil consumption due to stuck rings from VCM, yes. Worn out cams, yes. Damage due to timing belts, yes.

Probably a thicker oil for cam life would be a good idea, but I am not sure that cam problems are really oil-related.

If Honda made the engine last 1 million miles, there would still be plenty of reasons to buy a new one: failed $1000 engine mounts, dead sliding doors, and just the general interior grunginess of a well-used family vehicle.
 

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These are good points for using 5W-30 oil rather than 5W-20. Perhaps I may consider when my van hits "high mileage", which I am a long way from at 83K miles.

The one thing on my mind is worn out cams... I really do wonder if those are oil related. But, from what I gathered on the forum, it looks like they're mostly factory defects? What can we do proactively to minimize risk of camshafts wearing out prematurely?
 

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The one thing on my mind is worn out cams... I really do wonder if those are oil related. But, from what I gathered on the forum, it looks like they're mostly factory defects? What can we do proactively to minimize risk of camshafts wearing out prematurely?
Nothing. That's a manufacturing defect from honda.
 

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Sorry, I ran 0W40 in my Dodge Caravan. As I live in Maryland, I run 0W20 in my Ody, but I wouldn't hesitate to run 5W30, which Honda uses in Europe.
 

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Running MaxLife 5W30 for the past 50K miles on my '05 EXL with 360K miles. No issues with winter starting in the cool Northeast. Might have shaved a 0.5 MPG off highway mileage but such a small difference is hard to measure accurately and could be attributable to a host of other factors given age of vehicle. Burns about a quart every 2500 miles. No muzzler; slight difference in plug color suggest rear bank is the culprit...most likely due to VCM induced ring wear. Primary reason for moving to a higher weight oil.
 

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yes, I have a 2007 EXL with almost 160,000 miles on it now
been running 5w-30 for 100,000 miles of that

I switch between Pennzoil and Mobil 1 synthetic primarily (playing the rebate game) and have mostly used purolator oil filter. I have put castrol and valvoline in a couple times here and there (still synthetic).

I change the oil when the dashboard gauge tells me to, that is around 7000 miles most times (maybe 6500)

My van starts in an instant and runs strong as the day I got it. In 6500-7000 mile oil changes, the oil level is maybe down 1/8 of an inch from the full line. I am amazed this thing does not burn any oil worth worrying about. It is rode hard and hung up wet daily (my teen age kid drives it full time now, but my wife drove the piss out of it for 10 years first)

Also to note, my van is NOT VCM muzzled

Worry more about your transmission. I had my trans replaced under warranty around 48k miles. I gave up on honda trans fluid at that point, went all vavloline maxlife and 15k mile changes, never had another worry with the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Running MaxLife 5W30 for the past 50K miles on my '05 EXL with 360K miles. No issues with winter starting in the cool Northeast. Might have shaved a 0.5 MPG off highway mileage but such a small difference is hard to measure accurately and could be attributable to a host of other factors given age of vehicle. Burns about a quart every 2500 miles. No muzzler; slight difference in plug color suggest rear bank is the culprit...most likely due to VCM induced ring wear. Primary reason for moving to a higher weight oil.
Dang, originally Transmission?
 

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yes, I have a 2007 EXL with almost 160,000 miles on it now
been running 5w-30 for 100,000 miles of that

I switch between Pennzoil and Mobil 1 synthetic primarily (playing the rebate game) and have mostly used purolator oil filter. I have put castrol and valvoline in a couple times here and there (still synthetic).

I change the oil when the dashboard gauge tells me to, that is around 7000 miles most times (maybe 6500)

My van starts in an instant and runs strong as the day I got it. In 6500-7000 mile oil changes, the oil level is maybe down 1/8 of an inch from the full line. I am amazed this thing does not burn any oil worth worrying about. It is rode hard and hung up wet daily (my teen age kid drives it full time now, but my wife drove the piss out of it for 10 years first)

Also to note, my van is NOT VCM muzzled

Worry more about your transmission. I had my trans replaced under warranty around 48k miles. I gave up on honda trans fluid at that point, went all vavloline maxlife and 15k mile changes, never had another worry with the transmission.
What was wrong with the transmission, torque converter? I thought the 07+ transmissions were much more reliable than previous years.
 

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Nope, as far as I know per receipts from the shop I take it, I've been using the recommended 5W-20 all along now having over 145K miles on the it and never thought about using a different weight. I have always changed it when the maintenance minder says except when I'm going on a long road trip and know if I don't change it before I leave I will need to do so in the middle of the trip.

I take it to a local shop I trust which does a synthetic blend oil change with filter for $20, and will also rotate the tires and check everything over for no additional charge. I'm sure it is a loss leader for them, but I usually leave without them recommending additional work, and when they do recommend work, it is needed. Basically with what they charge it is not worth the hassle to do it myself.
 

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What was wrong with the transmission, torque converter? I thought the 07+ transmissions were much more reliable than previous years.
Yep torque converter, there is a thread here somewhere from 2009-2010 that is 100 miles long about all the people with problems and getting replacements. The key is to change the fluid far more often than recommended.
 
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