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Yep torque converter, there is a thread here somewhere from 2009-2010 that is 100 miles long about all the people with problems and getting replacements. The key is to change the fluid far more often than recommended.
I must be lucky - no issues and I've only had the fluid changed when it popped up on the maintenance minder.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Nope, as far as I know per receipts from the shop I take it, I've been using the recommended 5W-20 all along now having over 145K miles on the it and never thought about using a different weight. I have always changed it when the maintenance minder says except when I'm going on a long road trip and know if I don't change it before I leave I will need to do so in the middle of the trip.

I take it to a local shop I trust which does a synthetic blend oil change with filter for $20, and will also rotate the tires and check everything over for no additional charge. I'm sure it is a loss leader for them, but I usually leave without them recommending additional work, and when they do recommend work, it is needed. Basically with what they charge it is not worth the hassle to do it myself.
Shops get barrels of syn blend oil dirt cheap. Their cost for filters is probably $2. Trust me, they still make a little money off of you.
 

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I am running 5w-20 high mileage mobil 1 in my 07 @ 135k. In my last vehicle @ around 180k miles the oil pressure gauge would dip to almost zero on hot summer days, I went from 5-30 to 10-40 and that solved the problem. Being in San Diego where the coldest temp it sees is 40 degrees thats safe.
Since the odyssey has no pressure gauge not sure I will do the same.
I am using the Fram gold filters think they are the ones designed for synthetic. I had heard that walmarts super tech filters were a great filter for the money, bought one as specd out of their guide and it wouldnt screw on. SNAFU FUBAR and a dozen cuss words later I put the old fram back on it.
I wouldn't use a Fram filter on my ridding lawn mower. Fram filters are junk. Plenty of youtube people cut them open and not much inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I wouldn't use a Fram filter on my ridding lawn mower. Fram filters are junk. Plenty of youtube people cut them open and not much inside.
Fram's are fine and it's overblown. Just run them 5-7K. The orange can that is. The Fram silver and gold cans are high quality filters.
 

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Shops get barrels of syn blend oil dirt cheap. Their cost for filters is probably $2. Trust me, they still make a little money off of you.
Maybe, but the oil and filter isn't their only expense. They also at a minimum are paying a tech to do the work.

It's also not costing me much more than what oil and a filter alone would cost with a good sale. Avoiding the hassle, especially of rotating the tires, is worth it to me. The only vehicle I change the oil myself is my toy - an '82 Corvette.
 

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Shops get barrels of syn blend oil dirt cheap. Their cost for filters is probably $2. Trust me, they still make a little money off of you.
This has been widely discussed on mech orientated sites. Aside from dedicated oil change shops, indy shops don’t get such volume discounts and need to stock or procure oil for different makes (e.g. GM Dexos). They break even at best due to labor costs but use it as an opportunity to sell more lucrative services like brake jobs.

I’ve run both 5w 20/30 in our 06 EX-L (Texas). Outside/ ambient temperature doesn’t make a big difference since the engine will regulate internal temperature to 180-210F. The difference in viscosity at this range is minor relative to when the oil is at ambient temperature. Ambient temp just determines how quickly the engine gets up to operating temperature.



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Curious if anyone runs 5w30 in their 05-2010 regardless of the oil cap and manual 5w20 recommendation. I've seen used oil reports from folks on bobistheoilguy that have even run 0w40 oil with good protection. This isn't to fire up some heated debate about oil choice, just curious as to what people run in their vans.

FWIW I run high mileage 5w20 strictly to help prevent seal leaks and what not. I've run 0w20 a time or two in winter again in high mileage formula.
I have had 5 Odysseys 1st 3 of them I traded in at 200k/4years old decided not to buy new cars anymore 4th odyssey ran 509k, 5th 425k, on my 6th. Had 1988 accord LXI 450K 11YEARS, 2005 CRV 401K Aam donating it still running good bumpy roads tend to bring out noises. I have always used 10w30 Castrol synthetic in all of them with no trouble. I am am on my 6th odyssey just purchased 09 w/126k leaks oil valve cover gasket am replacing. #5 was an 04 bad bye #2500.00. Motor and trans good but leaks water into passenger compartment, and handful of notnoid issues I did not want to fix. 1 old bad one used out of that many. I will probably not buy anything but HONDA
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I have had 5 Odysseys 1st 3 of them I traded in at 200k/4years old decided not to buy new cars anymore 4th odyssey ran 509k, 5th 425k, on my 6th. Had 1988 accord LXI 450K 11YEARS, 2005 CRV 401K Aam donating it still running good bumpy roads tend to bring out noises. I have always used 10w30 Castrol synthetic in all of them with no trouble. I am am on my 6th odyssey just purchased 09 w/126k leaks oil valve cover gasket am replacing. #5 was an 04 bad bye #2500.00. Motor and trans good but leaks water into passenger compartment, and handful of notnoid issues I did not want to fix. 1 old bad one used out of that many. I will probably not buy anything but HONDA
Welcome to the forum. Where do you live? 10w30 would not be good for winter starts around the great lake region.
 
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