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I have a 2003 Ody 61,000 miles with the long life coolant.The other day I checked the coolant with a Prestone bulb tester and it showed the coolant was still good. In fact the needle went past the max mark on the guage. Plus I did not see any signs of rust or discoloration in the coolant
I was just curious if anyone else went the full 10 years or 120K before changing the coolant.
 

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Not going to get much "rust" in coolant on an all aluminum engine!
 

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Not going to get much "rust" in coolant on an all aluminum engine!

Yes, that is true. I wonder if thats why the coolant can last 10 years without being changed.
 

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Also, these days lab guys working the solutions chemistry angle have figured that weak organic acids added to the coolant help keep the pH where it needs to be. Prevents electrolytic problems (i.e., corrosion) and stops the coolant from electrolytically attacking the rubber parts (hoses and water pump gland seal).

Today's thoroughly modern Prestone is not your Grandpa's Prestone from back in the day.

OF
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also, these days lab guys working the solutions chemistry angle have figured that weak organic acids added to the coolant help keep the pH where it needs to be. Prevents electrolytic problems (i.e., corrosion) and stops the coolant from electrolytically attacking the rubber parts (hoses and water pump gland seal).

Today's thoroughly modern Prestone is not your Grandpa's Prestone from back in the day.

OF
I decided yesterday to go ahead and change the coolant anyway.After 8 1/2 years, the coolant still looked good.
Changing the coolant was pretty easy.The only PITA is getting to the engine block drain bolt in the rear underneath.
When I refilled and started the van, I let it run with the heat on. I saw the temp guage go up to almost the H. But then the fan kicked on and it slowly came back down.I thought the van was going to overheat there for a second. I guess the coolant did not circulate enough yet.
 

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There is a procedure posted somewhere here on how to vent the cooling system. It is a combination of turning the temp to heat and cold at certain rpm and checking the coolant level.

I decided yesterday to go ahead and change the coolant anyway.After 8 1/2 years, the coolant still looked good.
Changing the coolant was pretty easy.The only PITA is getting to the engine block drain bolt in the rear underneath.
When I refilled and started the van, I let it run with the heat on. I saw the temp guage go up to almost the H. But then the fan kicked on and it slowly came back down.I thought the van was going to overheat there for a second. I guess the coolant did not circulate enough yet.
 

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.... and there is no drain bolt on bottom of radiator?
There is a white plastic O-ringed threaded drain plug on the bottom radiator tank (faces aft; shaped to allow twisting it open by hand).

OF
 

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Honda manual says 1999-2000 models should replace coolant after 45k, then every 30k or 2 years. But if the coolant tests OK, just leave it?

How do I know whether my van has "rear AC" or not? That requires more coolant than non-rear AC cars. There are vents back there and fan speed controls, but only one "AC" button on the front dash.

Thanks
Rich
 

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Testing coolant only checks PH, not the corrosion inhibiting properties.
 
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