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although I have not used it myself, it is a very highly regarded product by pro detailers on Autopia.org - a board I frequent.

I do believe that it can be an excellent coating - a second layer of clear - but I do think it might be a bit tricky to apply. There are lots of thread on the board. Check them out.

Personally, I use 3D Products sealant called Nitro Seal - a new 12-18 month duration coating. The trick to any of these things is paint preparation - removing all imperfections via polishing prior to using the sealant. I am spending the majority of the upcoming weekend on my new 2012 Ody project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
although I have not used it myself, it is a very highly regarded product by pro detailers on Autopia.org - a board I frequent.

I do believe that it can be an excellent coating - a second layer of clear - but I do think it might be a bit tricky to apply. There are lots of thread on the board. Check them out.

Personally, I use 3D Products sealant called Nitro Seal - a new 12-18 month duration coating. The trick to any of these things is paint preparation - removing all imperfections via polishing prior to using the sealant. I am spending the majority of the upcoming weekend on my new 2012 Ody project.
You bring up a really good point about preparing the paint. I have a new Odyssey (2012) that I just got 2 days ago. Other then washing the car do I still need to prep the paint?

Thanks!
 

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You bring up a really good point about preparing the paint. I have a new Odyssey (2012) that I just got 2 days ago. Other then washing the car do I still need to prep the paint?

Thanks!
Of course, a "new" car should have paint that is in pristine condition. Unfortunatley, that is rarely true. Dealers often do little more than a quick wipedown with a quick detailer after removing the masking that the factory puts on for shipping. That is good and bad news. The good part is that the less they touch it the better. The bad news is that it often requires more work than they are capable or desire to do.

New cars are shipped via a combination of rail and truck in the cae of the Odyssey in North America. The protective films are intended to keep the majority of the contaminants off the paint, but fall short of being fully functional. Here is what I did this past weekend to my brand new Odyssey:

1. Washed the car with a combination of a good PH balanced wash (from Griots Garage) and Dawn. This will strip any quick detail layer from the paint and let me actually see the condition without fillers that often are employed to hide scuffs and/or micromarring and scratching. You then see the true condition of the paint.
2. After an inspection, I determined that I needed to do some polishig to remove rail dust (put a baggie over your hand and feel the paint surface - if it drags and catches, you have contaminants in the surface of the paint. I clayed the car using Meguiars "kit" which includes quick detailer for lubrication). The surface was thereafter smooth as a baby's bottom but had some micromarring.
3. Used some HD Uno polish on my Porter Cable 7434 Random Orbital polisher with a relatively unaggressive pad and polished out the small markings.
4. I then wiped everything down with a 50-50 Isopropyl Alcohol / water mix to make sure all of the QD was completely removed.
5. Used the HQ NitroSeal product to completely seal and protect the finish. Very easy product to use and results are simply amazing.

While the products you use may be different, the steps are pretty much what I would do to any new vehicle to ensure it got the best start possible. I think I will put a final sacrificial layer on top of the sealant before winter - probably use HD Poxy or something like that.

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner Wolverine. Hope I didn't overwhelm you!
 

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My pleasure. I frequent the Autopia.org detailing site. It is largely for professionals, but hacks like me get answers and read a lot there to get some very good informaiton about paint correction, protection, and all other detailing topics. Great reference material - I recommend reading.

I do think the Opti-Coat is a great product, but doing some reading on that board, I think I would be hesitatnt to go this particular direction as an amateur. It is, as it says, a permanent coating. For all intents and purposes, it is like adding another layer of clear coat on top of the clear coat. When done professionally, I believe the result can be outstanding. I do think there is some level of experience necessary to get the coating down evenly, without high spots or other issues. I am not sure where you are, exactly, but if you go to the Autopia website, you can find pro detailers in your area that might be able to help you out.

Apart from Opti-Coat, I would recommend the HD Nitro Seal or HD Poxy as 12-18 month protection that can be topped with other products (FP1000 for example) that would provide great protection and aren't as finiky in the application. The OC scares me personally.

Again,
Just my 2 cents -
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I will definetly check out that site. In all honesty I am having doubts about doing this. I have a Mazda 3 that I've had for 4 years and I do a good job taking care of it. The paint still looks new... I live in Michigan. I've been using Collinite Super DoubleCoat Auto Wax #476. Stuff is durable. I got it from AutoGeeks Collinite Super DoubleCoat Auto Wax #476

Right before the winter I'll use Klasse: Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze, klasse SG sealant, klasse sealant glase,klasse sealant

So far so good. So I may just stick to these products or the products you've mentioned instead of Opti-Coat. I don't want to mess this vehicle up using OC.
 

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yep - I think that is a good course of action. I have used Klasse AIO and SG with great results, although the SG can get a bit tricky unless it is put on super thin. I see that you have had some detailing experience, so I am not freaking out as badly. The Collinite is a very well respected line as well. There are a lot of great products to choose from, and everyone has their favs. OC is a well respected product, just not one that is recommended for us mere mortals. That said, I thought twice and three times about trying to use it on the Miata as I drive that 365 days a year in the yuck here in PA (they call it the ice or slush belt as we usually are on the great divide between the snow farther north and the rain farther south). I really try to get a good coating down before all the chemicals are brought out to fight the winter precipitation.

Good luck, and keep me updated on how it goes!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey Jeff,

The OC 2.0 came in today but I've decided not to use it on the paint. What I might do is use in on the paint that is not shown like the inside of the doors and trunk. That will create a permanent seal there. Those are the parts that I hate to wax the most.

What do you think?
 

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Hey Jeff,

The OC 2.0 came in today but I've decided not to use it on the paint. What I might do is use in on the paint that is not shown like the inside of the doors and trunk. That will create a permanent seal there. Those are the parts that I hate to wax the most.

What do you think?
I didn't know you already bought it.... if that is the case, go ahead and use it on the jambs and such and see how easy or difficult it is to use. Take a look carefully and see if you think you can use it on the rest of the van. Unfortuantly I can't give you personal guidance here. I am sure a post on Autopia might get some opinions on someone using for the first time. Give that a go. Sorry if I have taken you totally off your plan.

Update - Just posted over on Autopia asking the question - I want to know myself. Look here - http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing/138308-opti-coat-first-time-user.html#post1469816
 
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