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UPDATE: The driver's side is now done. I'll be posting a write up soon. Stay tuned!
 

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My cable snapped and I'm wondering about the worth of doing this. The main problem I see is, when I took it all apart, the snapped cable wound back up and mashed all the grooves on the spool. I don't think it is salvageable, though would like to hear from others if they had this problem. Since you can't get just the individual parts, it would be an entire motor. Used around here are $200. I really don't want to spend that much on it, but then again I use this vehicle for Uber and people generally overexert a manual door. Has anyone had problems with the grooves? Another question is, if I can fix the spool, I do see cable replacements. Can those be fed through with the ferrules on the ends? Thanks.
 

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@ SnowmanPA, really appreciate this information! I found good teflon coated SS brake cable in Canada at MEC, they come in two lengths, 1700mm (67") and 2750mm (108"), so need 1 each. I will use the Dorman cable stops on the outside (door bracket), they fit perfectly, while re-using the OEM transparent sleeves. I plan to "solder" the cable stops as others have done using the Harris Metal Work Solder. Door travel is about 31" total, one pulley winding is ~7", so more than 4 windings need to be on the pulley. The 'theoretical room on the pullet is 6.8 windings.

I essentially plan to rebuild the drive unit so it becomes like "the new part", then you can simply follow the excellent video from Eric O @ South Main Auto.

One cable end had lost it sheathing and was rusted nicely, the pulley was jammed well. I disassembled the pulley housing from the clutch and could tap out the pulley with a soft hammer with ease (recommended). When the unit is removed from the car, it is very easy to work with.


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My cable snapped and I'm wondering about the worth of doing this. The main problem I see is, when I took it all apart, the snapped cable wound back up and mashed all the grooves on the spool. I don't think it is salvageable, though would like to hear from others if they had this problem. Since you can't get just the individual parts, it would be an entire motor. Used around here are $200. I really don't want to spend that much on it, but then again I use this vehicle for Uber and people generally overexert a manual door. Has anyone had problems with the grooves? Another question is, if I can fix the spool, I do see cable replacements. Can those be fed through with the ferrules on the ends? Thanks.
My pulley looked pretty ugly as well, the cable "depressed" the divider in places. I just took the time with a small file, some sandpaper, and the pulley looks a whole lot better now. Pretty much the entirity of the groove should be clean and smooth as to not damage the cable running in it.
 

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My pulley looked pretty ugly as well, the cable "depressed" the divider in places. I just took the time with a small file, some sandpaper, and the pulley looks a whole lot better now. Pretty much the entirity of the groove should be clean and smooth as to not damage the cable running in it.
I've thought about trying that, and after seeing the price and hearing someone else fixed it, I'm going to try. Nothing to lose but some time. Thanks.
 

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Hi, I’d like to share how I’ve repaired the passenger side door opener on our 2005 EX, as it’s the reverse of what many have been doing.

First, why did the cable fail? In my case, the rear cable lost its protective sheathing, then rusted, and one of more strands broke leading to inevitable jamming. The rear cable rubs into the grey plastic block at the end of the rail. As you have this block on both sides of the vehicle, remove both and swap them to start anew. Interestingly, the front cable was in tact, but “cut” a groove in the steel rails and into the first stud ‘around the corner’ holding this rail to the vehicle. You can replace the entire rails, but I buffed out the grooves to be very smooth thereby reducing the risk of added stress on the cable/sheathing. Lubrication will help a bit here.

I took the entire drive unit out of the car, disassembled and cleaned it. I placed the spring tensioners unloaded back into the unit and taped them down (tie wrap for better security). I used MEC brake cables with Teflon coating (quite thin, see post above), cut of the thin cast end with normal (new) Channellock pliers (not difficult). I made the front cable 64 1/16, 5” longer than recommended, and the rear cable 74 13/16, 6” longer than recommended. I carefully sanded the cut end to be a little rounded. Then carefully insert the cable in the cable hose from the tensioner side. In my case it came out over the pulley on both ends (front cable took two tries, hence 1” shorter).

On my cables, the cylindrical end (for brake lever) is too big to fit in the pulley, so I filed them to fit like the original cable. The advantage of this is that as the “pocket” is quite tight, this end cannot jump out of the pulley easily. I rolled up one full winding on the rear (front cable), then rolled up the front as much as I could (rear cable). I got 5 windings on there. Holding both cables down to the pulley with one finger, insert the pulley into the housing while pulling on the cable ends to remove the slack. Now you can carefully make the pulley work by pulling the cable ends after the pulleys. The pulley is so tight in the housing, the cables stay in their tracks. Now remove the tape/tie wraps and install the front cover back on. Next, load up the springs and push the white “blocks” to keep the springs loaded. Each tensioner gives 40mm extra cable length, so about 3 1/8” altogether.

Now what you have is like a new part, except that there are no cable stops on the cables coming out. Install the part into the vehicle. With the two cable ends, you should have the cables overlap a bit, I had close 3 7/8”. I was expecting to have 11” excess, but I got 1 extra winding on for the rear cable, and one winding is just over 7” each. You can now simulate the unit operation by taping the cable ends together and manually pull it both directions. The rear cable appeared to be a good length (the 6” extra ‘disappeared’), so I sanded the end of the cable to remove the Teflon and installed the small Dorman stopper with Loctite red. I ground the screw end off leaving me with the stop and half the screw in there. Install a stopper on the front cable so you will have about 1.5” between the two terminated cables. Next remove the roller hinge from the door, hook in the two cable stops and re-install the roller hinge. You can now open and close the door carefully by hand multiple times. Finally, release the tensioners, and open and close the door a few times again. Next, turn on the power, and automatic cycle should work. The Teflon sleeves did fit in my worn-out Honda roller hinge but not in my recently replaced one, so I discarded them. Using this approach you get near maximum cable tension. I have to see if it lasts, obviously my cable selection has to prove itself as well.
156985
156986
156987
 

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I know Car Cable Guy will send you a new kit even if you mess up the install. ;)
Sometimes the warranty is worth it.
Got the kit, looked through the steps, and discovered I was supposed to keep the plastic covers for the ends from the old cable. Any ideas where I could get them? I was thinking of using a plastic straw to rig something, but not sure how well that would work.
 

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Ok, so my last post on this issue. The job was several hours spread over two days. Getting the cable wound into the motor is a battle, and I could only get it done with the motor completely removed. Put it all back together, did a couple of manual test open/close, everything worked great. Closed the door, pushed the button, and it opened fine. Pushed the button, and the cable got drawn into the spool and destroyed it once again. I'm done, it's a manual door. As a 2005 with almost 300K miles, it's simply not worth fixing.
 

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Yikes! Sorry to hear this. For others that may stumble across this thread in the future, what do you think went wrong with your repair attempt?
 

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Yikes! Sorry to hear this. For others that may stumble across this thread in the future, what do you think went wrong with your repair attempt?
I will say in following the CarCableGuy instructions, the very detailed steps eventually say "Once you have the cable wound around the pulley and installed in the motor...". This is the most difficult part. I'm wondering if the ends weren't fully or properly seated. I did have an issue where, when trying to wind, if I slipped the crimped ferrule end would pop out. You are doing the process rather blind, and once the pulley is in the motor, you cannot tell. I'm also wondering about how well the pulley was cleaned up after the first failure. I spent a lot of time fixing the grooves, and used the old cable to test and make sure it wasn't catching. Perhaps it was just too far gone. I have a coworker with an '07 and he bought a used complete motor and cable for $120. Maybe that's the way to go, I just didn't want to trust something used that, as an Uber driver, is going to get tons of use. At least the door open pretty easily as a manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
If I could get a whole motor assembly for $120, I might do it. But I'd want to inspect the cable to make sure the coating is completely in tact. What does these in is when the coating breaks and the cable starts to rust. So if the coating is still completely in tact and isn't brittle, then it's almost as good as new.
 

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If I could get a whole motor assembly for $120, I might do it. But I'd want to inspect the cable to make sure the coating is completely in tact. What does these in is when the coating breaks and the cable starts to rust. So if the coating is still completely in tact and isn't brittle, then it's almost as good as new.
Maybe if I didn't use the vehicle for Uber. As it as, everything ages 10x faster. Besides, not sure how you would be able to inspect beforehand. Certainly not from Amazon/Ebay, maybe a local salvage yard would pull it first.
 

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CarCableGuy cables are the way to go. High quality cables, good instructions, and great warranty.
 

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CarCableGuy cables are the way to go. High quality cables, good instructions, and great warranty.
Hi everyone,

Let me tell you about this Idahoan cable guy a bit, initially working on gun magazines and selling them in different eBay accounts while going to law school. Then he got into Odyssey cable repair adventures. Up to here all looks not bad.

However his moral values are quite questionable since he literally copied another eBay seller's cable solution then got that mass manufactured in China and lowered the prices to dirt cheap, I see he is claiming some sort of copyright on plagiarized information now.

Regardless of what you do, honesty is the top priority. Consider the above mentioned facts prior to doing business with this patriot.

Cheers!
 

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Regardless of what you do, honesty is the top priority. Consider the above mentioned facts prior to doing business with this patriot.

Cheers!


Let me address this directly.



I have been doing this repair since 2010 locally when my own van broke in law school. I also own a small aerospace company with a machine that makes cable which has another small component of my company that manufactures items related to the firearms. I have three trademarks, numerous copyrights, and I am submitting my own patent for another item in the coming weeks. I continue to run this cable business to show my kids how to operate a business. They are my packing and shipping department.


I have never copied someone else's information off ebay. I have set up a website, taken copious pictures and made sure they were clear and showed the repair as clearly and as closely as possible. You can find my website by searching “Car Cable Guy Honda Odyssey” in your favorite search engine. I sell on Amazon, eBay, and my website. I answer buyer questions and never let a customer walk away unsatisfied. Each cable specification I have has a corresponding brand-new Honda Odyssey door motor that was disassembled and reverse engineered. I even have created Solidworks files to 3D print the motor pulley, but I could not make them strong enough and testing showed they would fail prematurely.


In about August of 2020 the flood of eBay and Amazon sellers at lower prices in a rush to the bottom with pricing. I lowered my price and they lowered their prices. I cannot compete with Chinese knockoffs of low quality based on only price and had to lower my price accordingly. I cannot lower the 1999 to 2004 kits because they are considerably more difficult to manufacture.



To the point of claiming copyright on eBay. My pictures and words have been used by others in their listings and I will continue to defend my intellectual property. If the above buyer was caught up in that and is upset, well, I can only speculate the reason is because their listing had my pictures and wording on it. EBay and Amazon search based on the image and wording, so it was their automated system that caught any listings with my photographs and wording.



I never let a customer go away unhappy. You can reach me with any questions here, on my website, eBay, or Amazon. I have kept my ThanosZX7R username on eBay because that is the name I started with, but feel free to reach out.

Aaron
 

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Got the kit, looked through the steps, and discovered I was supposed to keep the plastic covers for the ends from the old cable. Any ideas where I could get them? I was thinking of using a plastic straw to rig something, but not sure how well that would work.
I make them, I can send you some. Please let me know privately and we can resolve your issue.
 

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I make them, I can send you some. Please let me know privately and we can resolve your issue.
Actually they managed to still be attached to what little cable was left on the roller. My problem was the plastic pulley in the motor, which I tried to repair, still dragged the cable in and got mangled again. That piece isn't sold separately, and I'm not prepared to purchase an entire motor for this vehicle (over 300K miles). But thanks.
 
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