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I think you have to remove the rear trim panels and once it's removed you should be able to get to them.

P.S I am also from columbus!.
 

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Both mine recently died. Where in Ottawa can I get the cheapest replacements? If someone has a recommendation online from the STates (Ebay), I'd appreciate the link. If it's not that cheap, I may just leave them. They still close fine, and STAY closed. Don't really need that frankly.
 

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The attachment pin (the black round thing on the window when looked from the outside) fell off! The motor is no longer connected to the glass and there is nice through hole. Anybody got a spare attachment pin? Does dealer sell that item? I believe the motor is still working. We never really use it.
 

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There is a cheap fix for these motors somewhere on this site and it involves saudering a small light bulb to the circuit I believe.
 

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that attachment pin has list price of $17! Wow, with shipping and handling that will cost me almost $30 for what is a glorified nut. I suspect a 6x1.0 flared nut (or a washer) should work as ghetto repair.

People who are worked on the motor, can you tell if the cap as shown in the diagram snaps off or slides off from the glass attachment to get at the bolt which screws in the attachment pin? And do I mess with the retainer clip? I usually have very bad luck with retainer clips :)

HondaRearGlass.JPG
 

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how do you get to where the back vent window motor is?
Since I just worked on this myself, here are some diagrams and such that will help. That rear upper trim panel that covers the motor can be removed on it's own. Pull it out starting at the top. There are some hooks at the front edge of the panel that wrap behind the rubber window trim. The trim isn't glued on, just a tight fit so you should be able to just pull it away. There are some clips that you'll feel pop as you pull on the panel. The big panel below it has some tabs that connect it to the panel you're trying to remove so you'll have to pry on that panel a bit to get the upper panel out. There's a cargo net hook at the back edge of that lower panel that is covering up a screw that you'll need to remove to allow the panel to pull away from the window. Get some cheap plastic interior trim tools from Harbor Freight to make your life easier. A flat head screwdriver will work but you'll probably end up scratching everything up.

rear side lower trim.jpg rear side upper trim.jpg
 

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People who are worked on the motor, can you tell if the cap as shown in the diagram snaps off or slides off from the glass attachment to get at the bolt which screws in the attachment pin? And do I mess with the retainer clip? I usually have very bad luck with retainer clips :)
The cap will pop off very easily. I think there are small claws on the top and bottom so wedging it off from the flat edge is the way to go. That retainer clip should stay in place. I believe the seal passes through the clip and friction holds the two pieces together.
 

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Thanks Aero! I am going to see if the ubiquitous 10mm flanged nut would suffice. The retainer clip as shown in the diagram seems to be towards the motor side rather on the glass end. At this stage I am only interested in somehow hooking up the glass back to the attachment. Motor/resistor repair is going to be a follow on project.

P.S. Where are these pictures from? Are they from FSM or is there a specialized collision repair manual? My picture was from FSM and I do not recall seeing the two you have posted therein.
 

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Those pages are from the the FSM. Body - Interior Trim section.

I think that attachment pin passes through the glass/seal/retainer clip combo. So in addition to a flanged nut, you might also need a longer bolt to Macgyver a solution.
 

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Well, $0.99 at local hardware store and I found something which had matching internal threads but had four sharp bites. I straightened out the bites with a needle nosed pliers, painted that ninetynine cents thingy and mcguired the rear vent! It looks ghetto if you are six inches from it but otherwise nobody will notice it.

I think $25 for that part is insane.

- Vikas
 

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In case anybody runs in to this issue, this is the T-Nut and I bent the spikes back. This costs $0.23; similar contraption from Honda has list price of $17.89

Metric T-Nuts, Zinc plated steel, 6mm x 1.0mm - Bolt Depot
This was very helpful. I used a 1/4" T-nut with no spikes. It seems to have worked perfectly. I installed it yesterday.
It did cost almost triple what you had suggested $0.70 ...... :)
This fit on my 2000 Odyssey LX
Thank You
 
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