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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
hello peeps, happy turkey day! any inputs shared is greatly appreciated. i'll try to be as detailed and short as possible. on my 98 ody with 130k, and all original brake components, i noticed that the l/r wheel has almost double the resistance to turn by hand compared to the opposite side + the brk pads on this side has more wear, 1.5mm to 5 on the r/s. took out both side claipers, and inspected the pins, and pistons. note that the brk fluid gets changed every 3 years or less. found out that the l/r caliper piston has rust build up on due to a deformed rubber seal, hence, the difference in wear, sticky piston. so i went ahead and replaced the ff: new honda pads with brembo rotors/ old rotors too thin to recut/ and a reman adv auto caliper. fluid flowed out good when bled. brk pedal feels good, but comes the bad news...with new rotors, pads , and a caliper on the l/side rear, THE RESISTANCE FOR TURNING THE WHEEL BY HAND ALMOST DOUBLED AS COMPARED TO THE OLD CALIPER WITH A SEIZED PISTON. so i took out for a spin around the block, and jacked it up again only to find out that it's gotten worse since the system's been pressurized with short braking, and smoking rotor, burnt smell on the l/s. so i took a 15 min rest, and came back, and noticed that... this time the drag on the l/r wheel has gotten less that you can actually turn it by hand, but not as freely as the r/s though. the hose from the outside exterior doesn't seem bloated or deteriorating badly, however, i'm not sure at this point that when the system is pressurized, it's acting as a one way ck valve. what do u guys think? i don't wanna waste time going back + returning the new caliper if it can be fixed with a simple brk hose replacement. tnx
 

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I think you will just have to be patient as Odyclub has not been busy lately over the last couple of days. Someone is bound to chime in from the 1st Gen crew.

This sounds to me like a bad caliper still.
 

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i would replace the caliper or rebuild it asap
 

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Given that new rotor and new pads might have slight interference at the beginning. It is normal to be harder to spin with hand compare to the r/s. I suggest to drive it short distance for a couple of days to see if it getting any better. In the mean time, you might want to check out if the parking brake pads are rubbing the inside rotor and need to be adjusted; or more serious case to see if the wheel bearing is shot.
 

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i would personally replace both calipers and hoses, flush the system.
i just don't play when it comes to brakes. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i would replace the caliper or rebuild it asap
well, today, before i headed out to get the replacement caliper from adv auto, i made sure that the prkg brake adjustment is up to specs as per the book, 4-8 clicks. it was at 5 clicks. so, went and took the caliper out with the help of a big flat tip screwdriver coz the freaking piston was seized up, yup, you read right, stuck. got back form adv auto, and re installed the replacement one. woot woot... was a defective reman caliper from you know where by now. note that the mfgr's name is fenco. on both, i had to grind out the opening where the brk hose line sits coz of a mfgring defect in casting. readjusted prkg brake, and gave it a good test run. no more smoking pads, and overheated rotor. glad that i was able to save my new pads and rotors. tnx for all the inputs.
 
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