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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have 202K miles on my '02 Odyssey. I have had it since it had around 75K on it. Transmission had already been replaced at 36K. The other morning I was leaving for work. I put the van in reverse and the engine started running rough. I backed out of the driveway and put the van in drive and stepped on the gas, the engine continued to run rough. I stepped on the gas some more and the check engine light blinked. I repeated the process with the same results every time. I turned around and drove back home and parked the van. I only drove a total of around half a mile. My code reader only gave me code P1399. I looked on the forum and found several post for this issue. Most of them also listed codes for the ignition coils. Some also mentioned the EGR valve. I took the EGR valve off and cleaned it. I went to Advance Auto and picked up a coil for $45. I was surprised it was that cheap as I normally order parts online but needed this one now.

I remembered something I had seen the mechanic do on Motortend TV. All I did was unplug each coil with the engine running to see if the engine ran worse when I unplugged it. If it ran worse, I knew the coil was working. If it ran the same, the coil was bad. I quickly isolated the issue to the center coil in the front. Replaced it in about two minutes and van is running fine. Just wasn't sure if anyone had this simple check method mentioned on the forum so I figured I would post it.
 

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Yep, that procedure is on here somewhere but thanks for adding it anyway. One thing to beware of, some folks have issues with aftermarket coils so if it comes back don't assume it's a different one. It could be the new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the advice. With so many miles on it, I think I might just pick up a "six pack" from a good manufacturer and replace them all.
 

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Now you see the difference between a code reader and a scanner. Misfires have to meet a threshold (so many misfires in so much time) before setting a code. With a scanner you can get the temporary codes even though there is no check light. A lot of the time the light will come on as it met the threshold and go back off as the next test it was below the threshold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Very good info. too. My scan tool is just a cheap $35 one. Any opinion of a better tool that can help you get more info? I have a '99 BMW 540i that is a nightmare and my scan tool doesn't tell me much when using it on that car.
 

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The only suggestion I have is to read all the specifications on the unit you are looking at. There are many, just google them.
 

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Now you see the difference between a code reader and a scanner. Misfires have to meet a threshold (so many misfires in so much time) before setting a code. With a scanner you can get the temporary codes even though there is no check light. A lot of the time the light will come on as it met the threshold and go back off as the next test it was below the threshold.
I am not understanding your point (and I have four scanners currently!) Even the cheap reader usually has the ability to give you the pending codes if that is what you are implying. For example, the $30 Autel gives pending code and I/M results.

Honda (at least for 1999 model) does not have many live generic parameters and misfire count is certainly not one of them. A factory scanner might be able to get the misfire count but I do not know that for a fact. On my next visit to my mechanic, I will borrow his Snap-On and see what goodies it displays on my van. Mind you, that thing costs thousands of dollars in purchase and annual upgrades!

As you can see, I love OBD and scanner topics :)

- Vikas
 

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01 Ody with 218k. On a multi-day vacation through SLC, this happened on the freeway. Pulling my boat for some fun! First sign of trouble, flashing CEL. That's weird... Second time flashing, code reader shows pending P1399. Bad shake when TC locks up. Nothing like the buttery smooth I'm used to. Down on power, too. Got into a parts store and they allowed me to work in the carpark what nice people wearing the shamrock. ?Nice weather, shade tree and parts available. ?Performed same procedure described by OP, pulled each coil pack and found #2 not pulling its weight. Pulled the spark plug first, and its gap was too big. Well that's about the cheapest thing to change on a car! Lets get one and see. Pre-gapped new one same kind goes in. Same shake and #2 not reducing power when pulled. Moved coil pack to #4 and viola! Problem moved. In goes the new coil pack and we're back on the road! Got a little afraid when the first topics about this code said valves, or HG. Fortunate this time! This is what I value forums so highly... they're a wealth of knowledge and experts who know about their cars and share their knowledge. Even 7 years later this information can help immensely.
 
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