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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2001 Odyssey that is having the intermittent problem of getting stuck in park. I was thinking it was the brake switch near the brake pedal but my brake lights are working fine. I did notice that when it get's stuck, the "P" does not light up when started. Could this be the range switch on the transmission? Could it be out of alignment or is it possible it's bad? I've searched but could not find too much about it.

Thanks,
Dan
 

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Maybe the park solenoid is not disengaging when you step on the brake pedal. Do you hear a click when you step on the brake pedal? The click is the pin being moved to allow the gear lever to move to other gears If not then this is probably the problem.
 

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The brake pedal switch has two sets of contacts. One controls the brake lights, the other is in the A/T interlock system. So the brake lights working doesn't mean the other part of the switch is ok. That being said if the P light is not coming on it could be a dirty contact on the range switch or not in adjustment, or shift linkage problems, etc. When the P light doesn't come on in park try working the shift lever back and forth and see if it comes on. It could also be a torqued steering wheel. If you pull on the wheel getting out it detents with torque. The friction makes it hard to pull the shift lever down. Try turning to Relieve the torque on the wheel and see if it woll shift.
 

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OK that was part 1. What about the P light, is it off or on. The power that turns it on also unlocks the detent.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK that was part 1. What about the P light, is it off or on. The power that turns it on also unlocks the detent.
The P light does not come on when it locks up. Of course, I have been driving it around today and it has not done it yet. As soon as I give it back to my wife, I'm sure it will do it.

Thanks for helping me out with this
 

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I am still having intermittent problems with this. What is weird is that I drove the car for 3 day's and it did not do it at all until the kids were riding with me and opened and closed the sliding doors.
 

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Short of getting in and measuring the voltageson the range switchand tracing to the transmission controler when thre P light doesn't come on unlock it with the key in the slot and shift through the full shifter range a few times and see if the P light comes back on. To diagnose it someone needs to trace the circuit with a voltmeter when it is failing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I know this is an old post but I am experiencing the same problem with my Odyssey. Did you figure out what the problem was? I temporarily bypassed the lock solenoid because it is happening more frequently.

Thanks
Dan
 

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Check the Shift Lock System (and specifically the Shift Lock Solenoid) with the troubleshooting attached below.
 

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I have a 2004 EX-L that was having intermittent shift interlock issues that are now constant.

I do have all three brake lights working. I went ahead & cleaned all the brake switch contacts. The shift interlock contacts are N/C & when the switch is released they close & I have verified continuity.

When I turn the ignition switch to the ON position the "P" & "D" lights come on & the "D" light goes off once the van does whatever start-up sequence the van does.

If I use the interlock bypass I can manually select each gear position & the corresponding light illuminates on the dash.

I can hear a micro switch clicking when I pull the shift lever towards me in an attempt to come out of park.

I do NOT hear any sort of click or solenoid engagement I press on the brake pedal.

Any ideas or suggestions?

I think I'm reading that it could be the Shifter interlock solenoid or the Transmission Range Switch....

Also the van seems to be shifting out of park very violently when I have to use the interlock bypass compared to normal operation.
 

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If your gear position lights are disappearing, eventually you will get the code for that...

I have been dealing with the transmission range switch/neutral safety switch the past year. I do get the code for it - P0705-6 My first attempt on the fix was by adjusting it and worked for 6 months. There is a small arc range where you move the switch to aim it so that all the gear position lights comes on and stays on when you shift to it. I recently adjusted it again, and so far (438 miles ago) the code has not come back. I am holding on to this fix until it won't work anymore before buying a new switch ($90).

I had some loud shifting from park before I adjusted it last year that fixed it after. So I would start there. Its easy and free. Remove the front left/driver side tire and you can see the switch. Remove the cover -2 bolts. Loosen the adjusting nut. Adjust until all the lights comes on down the entire shifting position. then tighten back. Thats it. Good luck.
 

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I will try. I already have the plate off.

I am currently unable to shift out of park.

Was that also one of your symptoms before you adjusted your switch?
 

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I will try. I already have the plate off.

I am currently unable to shift out of park.

Was that also one of your symptoms before you adjusted your switch?
Have you checked for voltage to the Shift Interlock solenoid when you depress the brake pedal? If you have voltage , most likely the culprit. Is the solenoid. If there is no voltage trace the wire to where its coming from, it could be bad contacts. Let us know.
 

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So I was going to come back & ask where to check the shift lock solenoid location because I couldn't figure that out. Then to make maters more interesting after I cleaned my nasty IAC valve Friday morning the engine RPM didn't want to come down below 1500rpm until I came to a full stop & I "lost" 4th & 5th gear when we made a Home Depot Run on Sat morning. Although on the way home (20 mile each way) it would sometimes shift into 4th/5th albeit harshly.

So between 103F temps & the 4th of July I finally git a chance to re-asses this evening & somehow the shift interlock is working fine again & I have 4th & 5th back & the transmission is shifting super smoothly.

So I'm cautiously hopeful/ecstatic that wiggling connectors or more run time on the newly cleaned IAC or ... rectified something.

I did check my TP sensor voltage & was seeing 4.5VDC closed & .45VDC wide open with a nice linear progression in between.

Travis

p.s. 2004 EX-L with 93K if that matters.
 

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Well, my neutral safety switch put up a code again. And after a few more adjustments, it will just run a few hundred miles before the N or D4 disappears. So I gave up and ordered a replacement part from autozone online - with 20% off and a $10 gift card and free shipping. Came up to $98 plus the gift card. A buck cheaper than the one on ebay 90 - but this one has the AZ lifetime warranty. Installed earlier and tested while parked. Seems to work. I'll update if any issues arise.

BTW majority of the aftermarket is made by 1 manufacturer - standard motor products - very hard to see any other brand beside the AZ or pricey honda parts.
 

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Keep us posted. It will most likely fix your problem. Standard Motor products are good quality aftermarket parts. If you want their premium line go with Blue Streak. This is their top of the line range.
 

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Have you kept the old range switch? Now you should feel free to open it up and fix it.
I actually opened up the the thing and cleaned the contact points on my first attempt last year. Worked for about 6 months first time round. On my 2nd and 3rd attempt, I even sprayed a little brake cleaner to really remove all the grease. However, it just works for a very short time. What I noticed is that there is some pitting on 1 side - back side of contact points. - @ 200K I guess its just worn down to the point of failure - even though its a very simple switch. Maybe that worn area causes a loose contact in the center range N, D4 which is also the smaller of the 7 points. Anyway, chuckin it to worn old part and hoping this new one will rid me of this issue once and for all. When I get the time, I might break open the sealed internal part of the contact point-where the wiring is all connected. But I doubt that is the cause....
 
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