battery drain - 0.16A
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Yes it is. i believe the max should be around 50ma or 0.050A in an older Ody like yours and mine.
An 0.16A draw will really drain your battery. Once the battery gets weaker, it will also not recover as quickly.
Do a search in this forum on that topic and you 'might' be able to figure out the cause for your vehicle.
Me, I have not been able to find the real cause but I do pull two fuses to really help slow down that battery drain when my Ody will not be used for several days.
Sure wish I could figure it out. I know the most likely circuits, but, it is super difficult to pinpoint the actual problem item, since there are so many items on those circuits.
I pull fuse#13 (7.5A -clock, back up) and fuse#12 (20A-Dr slide door). Fuse# 13 seems to be the biggest drain circuit of the two.
Complicated? Here is what is involved in just fuse#13 (7.5A):
Pass Mulitplex Control Unit
Gauge Assembly
Sliding Doors
Drivers Multiplex Control Unit
PCM
Door Multiplex Control Unit
Climate control unit,
Clock,
Heater control panel,
Simple, isn't it????
Just find the offending item. 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣
Buffalo4
And it's called clock back up fuse?
I edited original post, but will add:
"Update: pulling out Clock Back-up Fuse (front pass side fuse box - #13, 7.5A) "fixed" the problem and draw dropped to 0.01A. What could be faulty in the digital clock?"
now, since you gave me a short list of "what to check", I need to thick either to live without those components, or to check them one by one.....
I hate electrical issues....
I edited original post, but will add:
"Update: pulling out Clock Back-up Fuse (front pass side fuse box - #13, 7.5A) "fixed" the problem and draw dropped to 0.01A. What could be faulty in the digital clock?"
now, since you gave me a short list of "what to check", I need to thick either to live without those components, or to check them one by one.....
I hate electrical issues....
It's actually "Clock, back up" (notice the comma) which I think means the fuse is for the clock, as just one of the things it has something to do with. Probably because if someone's clock is not working, they will look for a fuse that feeds it and if it says 'clock' it must be the one.
I would think that the cause of the drain is a relay staying energized or similar due to a micro-switch or similar.
One of those other items listed as being on the #13 list are most likely the cause of the drain. Which one? Very hard to isolate the item because you can't just go in and disconnect them one at a time, at least not without a LOT of difficulty.
Many times it has something to do with the sliding doors, or so I've heard.
Best of luck!!
🙏Buffalo4
PS: If you do find the cause of the drain, please post it. 😀
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11,110 Posts
It is, but did you give the computer enough time to go to sleep? i.e. time after no activity, e.g. door open or close?
Current draw continues high while the van is awake, then it should drop when it goes to sleep. IIRC it stays awake for several minutes after the last sign of activity.
Buffalo4,
You said "if", not "when". "When" would sound much, much promising and encouraging.
Last night I pulled all (almost all) relays in engine bay - the drain (0.16A) didn't change. Then I pulled the fuse that powers something I can live without.
So, I will tackle easy things (in my opinion easy) one by one, from less important to more important.
PCM - that's the onboard computer (aka ECU). currently I have used one installed (with my vin number programmed).
If PCM is suspected to be faulty or just for kicks, I can put back the original one and see if the drain issue is the same.
Multiplex control units - what are they for? Airbags sensors, seat belt sensors, door locks, window regulators???
The reason I'm asking these "dumb" questions is that regular repair manuals (like haynes or chilton) don't give any "in-depth" information. I even searched for the fuse box(s) diagram and they don't have any info about it. Hegelian dialect in all its beauty.
I read some post about sliding door buzzer malfunction...
All items on your "Buffalo's list" functioned normally.
Off topic -
There are two things/areas that bother me:
1 - upstream O2 sensor's heating element wires go from the sensor to Junction J27 (if I remember correctly) with 21 contacts. This junction point is near PCM (probably left to it).
According to wiring diagram, the wires must be, let's say< yello/green, green/yellow (again, I don't remember by heart). There are NO wires with these colors that come to this Junction point. This condition throws an error code and lights up CEL. I didn't check which wires (in Junction point) go to O2 sensor, yet.
2 - There's another plug (junction point?) in engine bay, that hangs there idle and doesn't connect to anything at all, it's already corroded. (link - Mystery connector in engine bay )
You said "if", not "when". "When" would sound much, much promising and encouraging.
Last night I pulled all (almost all) relays in engine bay - the drain (0.16A) didn't change. Then I pulled the fuse that powers something I can live without.
So, I will tackle easy things (in my opinion easy) one by one, from less important to more important.
PCM - that's the onboard computer (aka ECU). currently I have used one installed (with my vin number programmed).
If PCM is suspected to be faulty or just for kicks, I can put back the original one and see if the drain issue is the same.
Multiplex control units - what are they for? Airbags sensors, seat belt sensors, door locks, window regulators???
The reason I'm asking these "dumb" questions is that regular repair manuals (like haynes or chilton) don't give any "in-depth" information. I even searched for the fuse box(s) diagram and they don't have any info about it. Hegelian dialect in all its beauty.
I read some post about sliding door buzzer malfunction...
All items on your "Buffalo's list" functioned normally.
Off topic -
There are two things/areas that bother me:
1 - upstream O2 sensor's heating element wires go from the sensor to Junction J27 (if I remember correctly) with 21 contacts. This junction point is near PCM (probably left to it).
According to wiring diagram, the wires must be, let's say< yello/green, green/yellow (again, I don't remember by heart). There are NO wires with these colors that come to this Junction point. This condition throws an error code and lights up CEL. I didn't check which wires (in Junction point) go to O2 sensor, yet.
2 - There's another plug (junction point?) in engine bay, that hangs there idle and doesn't connect to anything at all, it's already corroded. (link - Mystery connector in engine bay )
Davesdriveody,
What is the "rest" time for the computer to go to sleep mode?
I measured battery drain after the car was parked for 10 or more minutes. no accessories, no dome lights, no key in ignition. Only one sliding door was open and sliding door switch on dashboard was in "off" position (to prevent accidental activation of sliding doors).
What is IIRC?
What is the "rest" time for the computer to go to sleep mode?
I measured battery drain after the car was parked for 10 or more minutes. no accessories, no dome lights, no key in ignition. Only one sliding door was open and sliding door switch on dashboard was in "off" position (to prevent accidental activation of sliding doors).
What is IIRC?
IIRC If I Recall Correctly.
IIRC that 'mystery' plug is for some diagnostic work and doesn't stay connected.
As I recall the computer shut down time was under 10 min when I was measuring it at the battery before it dropped down to just over 0.15A or so.
When I checked my parasitic drain a year or two ago, I had these switches off (Driver's Window Only Switch, the interior master light switch including rear light switch, my remote mirror adj switch, my on-dash sliding doors switch and I even taped my door open switch to the closed position so I could get into my Ody is I wanted to.
I also spent over a half hour doing this after I waited for the computer to shut down.
My suspicions are mainly sliding door switches or locks. Sad that no one has come up with a way to find the offender. .
So when, if, you find the culprit. please post back.
I do have a wiring diagram on the #13 fuse circuit in my Service Manual, I believe,
With the wiring harnesses and difficult access to singular disconnect points, it is frustrating.
I only drive the Ody around once a week so it doesn't get fully charged very often (parked outside with no electric).
I do check the water level in the battery and keep the connectors and posts clean.
This has been going on for around 10yrs now.
Buffalo4
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11,110 Posts
All doors must be closed to initiate sleep.
Update:
after closing all doors and waiting over 15 minutes, the battery drain measured at 0.03A.
I will experiment with multimeter attached to the battery and manually opening the door, toggling sliding door switch on dashboard on and off. Let's see....
after closing all doors and waiting over 15 minutes, the battery drain measured at 0.03A.
I will experiment with multimeter attached to the battery and manually opening the door, toggling sliding door switch on dashboard on and off. Let's see....
Update:
1 - all doors closed - battery draw is 0.03A
2 - one sliding door open - battery draw is 0.15A
3 - door closed - battery draw is 0.03A
4 - opposite sliding door open - battery draw is 0.15A
5 - all closed - battery draw is 0.03A
6 - fuse #13 (pass side) is out - battery draw is 0.00?A.
7 - open sliding door (fuse #13 is in) - battery draw is 0.15A
8 - unlock car with remote (fuse #13 is in)- battery draw is 5.xxA
9 - all doors closed (fuse #13 is in)- battery draw is 0.3A
10 - front pass door open(fuse #13 is in) - battery draw is 0.11A
11 - all doors closed again (fuse #13 is in)- battery draw is 0.03A
conclusion - when door related switches are "triggered", there's a current draw.
My observations and fears that battery draw is excessive (0.16A) was incorrect, because door was open.
Am I correct?
1 - all doors closed - battery draw is 0.03A
2 - one sliding door open - battery draw is 0.15A
3 - door closed - battery draw is 0.03A
4 - opposite sliding door open - battery draw is 0.15A
5 - all closed - battery draw is 0.03A
6 - fuse #13 (pass side) is out - battery draw is 0.00?A.
7 - open sliding door (fuse #13 is in) - battery draw is 0.15A
8 - unlock car with remote (fuse #13 is in)- battery draw is 5.xxA
9 - all doors closed (fuse #13 is in)- battery draw is 0.3A
10 - front pass door open(fuse #13 is in) - battery draw is 0.11A
11 - all doors closed again (fuse #13 is in)- battery draw is 0.03A
conclusion - when door related switches are "triggered", there's a current draw.
My observations and fears that battery draw is excessive (0.16A) was incorrect, because door was open.
Am I correct?
Yes. Are you finding your battery dead in the morning?
Here is my recent notes regarding fuse 13 and battery drain....Parasitic Drain Fuse 13 ( 7.5A) Passenger Side Take note on the way I test it without cutting the battery connections at anytime. If any of your electrical stuff(sliding doors, locks etc.) is not working, I would look into those first.
Sounds like you don't have a heavy parasitic drain after all. Wish I could say that!!
😰 Nice work on checking those things out.
Bufalo4
All my electrical stuff is working except for my driver's main door lock, which has to be opened or locked manually with a key or fingers. If driver's door lock knob is in the locked position, none of the other door locks (yep, the other 4) will work with the remote, or the door lock/unlock button, to either lock or unlock the other doors. If I use the key or my fingers to unlock any of those 4 other doors, the remote will unlock all other doors whether the driver's door is locked or unlocked, but it will not lock or unlock the driver's door.
My battery needed to be replaces about every year until I started removing the fuses.
I am reluctant to replace the locking motor in my driver's door as it could also be that damn circuit in the lower passenger side behind the fuse box, which sounds like a PITA to access. Some repair the burnt trace by soldering a wire to jumper that trace. Seems as if when the driver's door lock motor starts failing, it draws a lot of amperage and that burns out that trace in the aforementioned circuit board.
Also, that drain on my battery causes the alternator to work harder and wear the brushes faster.
Buffalo4
You just answered your issue. Fix the drivers door lock actuator and your battery drain will most probably disappear.
So ,do you think that if I just physically disconnected the power door lock actuator, the main parasitic drain would go away?
I really don't want to go through the expense or work involved to actually replace the actuator itself.
Thanks,
Buffalo4
PS: Besides, I don't understand how the non-working lock actuator would/could a parasitic drain.
I never tried it because my objective back in 2015 was to have all door locks working. Why not try it and test if your drain disappears. BTW, how much amps is draining from your battery now? Your FOB might not work anymore if you do that though. Did you check if you get the buzzing sound from your sliding doors when you drive off? I mentioned that on the later end of your thread?
My theory why the driver door lock actuator (which has 2 active harness connections - 1 for FOB relay - second button press unlocking the other doors) can cause parasitic drain...say you close the doors and lock your car, the system will do its check making sure all is locked before putting it to sleep. If one is bad and not locking, via FOB or driver door switch, the system will never stop checking before going to sleep mode. And in effect will never sleep. A circuit will keep running? I just know that after I had all my electrical stuff working the drain disappeared. No need to test all the circuits of fuse 13 controls. Start at the obvious faulty one first.
That thing ain't gonna fix itself. But seems like you have learned to live with it over the years?
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