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Discussion Starter #1
ive done a search and it seems as if everyone talks about the a/c clutch relay. well i have a huge battery drain problem and im using a test light to t/s this problem. if i pull the 7.5a fuse for the clutch relays the light stays on, i can pull every fuse in the engine bay fuse block and it stays on except for 1 fuse, and it is a 40a fuse thats labeled backup acc. so my question is does anyone know what lies with this circuit. i know when i pulled it i lost my domelights and radio but im not sure what else.
 

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after a little more troubleshooting the problem lies within the #7 fuse labeled backup on the drivers side fuse panel. does anyone have the 2005 odyssey electrical troubleshooting manual that could help me out with what parts of the van use that fuse.
 

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As an electrical engineer with 50 years experience I fail to see how you are measuring excessive current drain with a test light. It measures voltage, not current. To trace excessive current you have to start with a CURRENT meter at the battery and determine first how much current is being drawn. Several hundred milliamp is normal. If high you can then start pulling fuses to find out which one drops the current draw to a normal level. Anyway what are the indications that make you think there is excessive current draw?
 

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As an electrical engineer with 50 years experience I fail to see how you are measuring excessive current drain with a test light. It measures voltage, not current. To trace excessive current you have to start with a CURRENT meter at the battery and determine first how much current is being drawn. Several hundred milliamp is normal. If high you can then start pulling fuses to find out which one drops the current draw to a normal level. Anyway what are the indications that make you think there is excessive current draw?
the fact that my new battery keeps dying is a huge indication that something is drawing power while the car is off. and u can use a test light to test this but its not as accurate. ive also used a meter and the problem lies within whatever circuits use that fuse. my guess is one of the rear door motors shorted and its causing my issues, seeing how this didnt start till my driver side rear door stopped working electrically. and no pulling the fuses didnt reset it.
 

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Don't replace the control module yet. I'm a tech at a dealer in Ontario Canada. We've seen this issue twice now, and both were traced to the rear latch in the inoperative sliding door. We would use the Honda HDS to read the position of the sliding door latch switch.(not the switch that operates the interior lights, but input for the sliding door control module) the faulty one stayed either open or closed regardless of door position. you may be able to disconnect the latch connectors, and see if that makes the draw go away. the problem we found in both cases was a seized lever that contacts the switch in the latch. can't remember exactly, as we just replaced the latch assemblies under warranty, but found the seized lever when inspecting after the unit was replaced. This also repaired the inoperative sliding door on one van.
Hope this helps, and was not too late. Sorry I can't remember more specifics, as it's been a while since we've seen this issue.
 

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Don't replace the control module yet. I'm a tech at a dealer in Ontario Canada. We've seen this issue twice now, and both were traced to the rear latch in the inoperative sliding door. We would use the Honda HDS to read the position of the sliding door latch switch.(not the switch that operates the interior lights, but input for the sliding door control module) the faulty one stayed either open or closed regardless of door position. you may be able to disconnect the latch connectors, and see if that makes the draw go away. the problem we found in both cases was a seized lever that contacts the switch in the latch. can't remember exactly, as we just replaced the latch assemblies under warranty, but found the seized lever when inspecting after the unit was replaced. This also repaired the inoperative sliding door on one van.
Hope this helps, and was not too late. Sorry I can't remember more specifics, as it's been a while since we've seen this issue.
ill have to look into that, havent had time yet to pull the panels apart to get to the control module but the latch makes sense. the other day the door came open while driving. and the latch ur talking about is the lower one under the sliding door right?
 

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No, the latch is the mechanism in the rear of the door that latches and releases the rear of the door. it also has an electric motor attached that pulls the door in tight at the rear when closed. you can see the part that latches to the striker through the small opening in the door if you look at the rear of the door from the back when opened. the opening has two 10mm bolts above it and one below it. The inner door panel needs to be removed, and there are a few more bolts holding it in behind the panel. I think the window track needs to be removed to. It's a lot of work to replace, but I suspect that may be your problem.
 

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Here is an article from the April 2011 Honda Service News to help you. Sounds like what Stewpid was referring to.

Power Sliding Door Won’t Open or Close; Pops or Binds Unlatching
Currently Applies To: ’05–10 Odyssey EX, EX-L, and Touring models

LinkDeny

Individual article:
LinkDeny

thanks again, maybe theres a short in that actuator causing my battery drain. hopefully 2morrow ill have time to take the panel off and look at it.
 

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Here is an article from the April 2011 Honda Service News to help you. Sounds like what Stewpid was referring to.

Power Sliding Door Won’t Open or Close; Pops or Binds Unlatching
Currently Applies To: ’05–10 Odyssey EX, EX-L, and Touring models

LinkDeny

Individual article:
LinkDeny
Yes, that's it exactly. If mine did that, I would try to free it up instead of replacing the part though.
That is a great resourse by the way! :nice:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
EE4life know where i can find the service manual on here to perform the [FONT=Helvetica,Bold][FONT=Helvetica,Bold]
Power Sliding Door Release Actuator Test


[/FONT][/FONT]
 

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EE4life know where i can find the service manual on here to perform the [FONT=Helvetica,Bold][FONT=Helvetica,Bold]
Power Sliding Door Release Actuator Test


[/FONT][/FONT]
Here is the release actuator test:
Release Actuator Test.JPG
 

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Try cleaning the sensor areas - this might solve the problem with the current draw / battery drain and possible problems with the sliding doors:


Open the rear sliding door (if a door has had problems, start with that door), when fully opened, on the car body door frame on the rear side you will see the latch on the body that connects to the door when closing. And below that latch are two small round sensors side by side that make contact with the rear part of the sliding door when closed. Clean the dust and grime off with a moist paper towel by the two sensors on the body and on the area of the door where the two sensors make contact. This may work. Read details of the whole problem encountered below, and if needed, try other solutions here: Honda Odyssey Questions - sllding door not latching - CarGurus

The problem originated with the passenger sliding door not closing properly - it would go in, and then a second later would come back out a bit but would still looked closed. But trying to get it to close took a while, and one it was closed, that door was not used for a while and the doors were set in manual mode.

A few months later, the 1-year old battery in the car died and was replaced. A few days later the new battery died, so a current draw / battery drain was suspected when the car was off. A multimeter (set to 10A mode) was used by removing the negative battery terminal and connecting one meter lead to that battery cable and the other meter lead to the negative battery post (reverse/swap the meter leads if the meter shows a negative current draw). Finding a way to clamp the meter leads to the battery and the cable is helpful when troubleshooting (weight, alligator clips, tape, etc.). A 500mA (.5A) current draw was found when the car was completely off (fluctuations would occur when opening the door or first connecting the meter - which was normal because of all the gadgets turning on and off).

Under the main fuse relay box under the hood, all fuses and relays were removed one at a time. This revealed that by removing the 40A fuse, the current draw went away. More internet searching and auto manual reading was done to discover that 3 or so fuses in the fuse panel on the driver's side could help further isolate the problem circuit.

The 40A fuse under the hood was put back in, then fuses in the fuse panel on the driver's side were removed one at a time. When the #7, 7-1/2A, fuse was removed, the current draw went away. Removing this temporarily kept the battery from draining until the problem was solved. The auto manual will indicate which circuits this fuse connects to, including AC Clutch Fan Relay and Sliding Doors, among others. The AC Clutch Fan Relay and similar relays under the hood are only $5 each, so as a potentially quick and easy fix, these were replaced, but it did not fix the problem and the current drain was still there. It is not clear if removing the relay would cause the current draw to go away if that relay was stuck closed. It would make sense that it would, but when these were removed during the initial troubleshooting, the current draw did not go away, so it was suspected that the relays were OK and that these were not the problem. But because others have solved the problem this way, this was tried anyway because it was quick and easy to try. But it did not fix it. So one of the other items connected to the #7 fuse was the sliding door,

The passenger sliding door was suspected because of the problems a few months prior. With the doors in manual mode, experimenting with it and opening it and closing it with the multimeter attached to the battery and while observing the current, the current drain went away for a moment, but this was not repeatable, but the problem was suspected to be related to the door.

Additional online searching was done and this forum was found, and information about problem latches led to that possibility. After observing the latches, nothing was particularly noticeable without taking anything apart. However, two little round side by side sensors on the body under the door latch on the rear side were observed - not quite sure what kind of sensors these are or how they work, but if they are magnetic then it is possible that they could be related to the problem. A film of dust and grime was noticed on both the door and the body where the sensors meet the door. A handy wipe (or moist paper towel) was used to clean these areas to remove the dust and grime film so that the sensors could make clean contacts to the door.

After doing this, with the doors still in manual mode, it was noticed that the current draw went away when the door was closed. To make sure if this might have fixed the problem, the multimeter was removed and the battery cable reconnected and both doors were put in automatic mode and the door that had problems now operated normally, and was compared to the other door and both doors appeared to operate normally. The doors, when closed, would pull in and then quickly come back out just a but to the normal closed position. Where as before, the bad door would pull in, then after a brief pause would pop back out a bit - the difference being the brief pause.

After testing the doors in automatic mode, the battery cable was removed and the multimeter reinserted to double check the battery drain, and there was no longer a drain on the battery with the car completely off. But when first connecting the meter to the battery and battery cable, it appears that there is a momentary drain of about 1A, which then drops down to 500mA (.5A) and then goes to 0, but then pops back up to 500mA a few times, and then finally rests at 0 - this may be the normal programmed routine related to the control modules that are controlling the doors.

Bottom line, try cleaning the sensors first and where they make contact with the door. Try this on both doors.
If no luck, try replacing the AC Fan Clutch Relay or adjacent related relays. If no luck with the relays, read on below,
and also try Honda Odyssey Questions - sllding door not latching - CarGurus . Good luck !!!
 

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I have been having these same issues with my passenger sliding door. I read the post and cleaned all the sensors, but still am have the same drain issue. The door has quite working all together now. The door would open and close fine, but when it closed it would over tighten, then release back to the normal position. I pulled the 20A fuse located in the passenger foot well area designated for the sliding door and replaced it with no change in operation. The lock works, but the door no longer responds to the key fob, the driver operating button, or the door handle itself. I did the door reset as per the online instructions with no change either. Is there anything else I could check?
 

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Nice, lengthy post by bgm. I've recently started having a similar battery drain issue and wanted to add my observations and see if anyone has new ideas.

2007 EX-L with a yellow-top Optima battery since 1/2011, date code 10/2010. I haven't been able to get a straight answer on how long this battery should last. The warranty is 36 months, but I've seen 18 months to 7+ years mentioned online. The battery is rated for 48A-Hr at a C-20 (2.4A) rate.

After parking in our garage, we leave the sliding rear doors open and, sometimes, the rear liftgate. See below - I think this is significant. This hasn't been a problem until recently.

I added a Priority Start a few months ago.

For about the past 2 weeks, I've noticed starts are sluggish after letting the van sit overnight. Yesterday I noticed the Priority Start had tripped, clearing all of my radio presets. Thanks to the Priority Start, I was still able to start the van and run a quick errand. A few hours later I ran the engine to charge the battery. Initial charging voltage was 13.7V, which increased to 14.1V after 45 minutes, then I cut off the engine. Battery voltage dropped to 12.5V after a few minutes, 12.3V a few hours later, and 12.0 after 17 hours. Current drain measured 0.39A (sliding doors open) at the beginning and end of the 17-hour test, although I'm not reliably able to duplicate that current drain today (I see 0.14A or 3.1A instead, see below.) At 0.39A I should get 5 days (conservative estimate since C/123 rate should have higher capacity), so I'm thinking perhaps the battery has gone bad.

I embarked on an afternoon of measuring current, pulling fuses, and opening/closing doors and windows. Experiments included cleaning the sensors, or whatever they are, near the sliding door latches. Bear in mind that the battery was near 12.0V and I did not charge it this morning, so that discharge state could be influencing results.

Maintaining battery connection after engine on/off cycle
  • 1.5A with dome lights on
  • 0.14A (or 0.4A?) with sliding doors fully open (windows closed), dome lights off (timer expired), regardless of rear liftgate open or closed
  • 0.1A with one of the sliding doors fully open, dome light timer expired
  • 3.2A with sliding doors partially open (windows open so the doors don't open all the way), dome light timer expired
  • 1.8A with only one of the sliding doors partially open

Breaking battery connection to insert ammeter

  • 2.4A with sliding doors open, dome lights on
  • 0.44A with sliding doors open, dome lights switched off, dome light timer still running
  • 0.14A (or 0.4A?) with sliding doors fully open, dome light timer expired
  • 0.09A with one sliding door fully open, dome light timer expired
  • 0.052A with sliding doors shut, unlocked, dome light timer expired
  • 0.044A with sliding doors shut, locked
  • 3.1A (or 0.4A?) with sliding doors partially open, dome light timer expired
  • 0.032A with underhood fuse #15 "BACK UP ACC" removed
  • 0.053A with underhood #15 replaced, interior fuse #7 "BACK UP" removed

Anyone know if 0.14, 0.39, or 3.1A is correct for leaving the sliding doors open?

If the current drain is 3.1A with the doors partially open, I'd expect the battery to drain in 15 hours or less. I'm wondering if those measurements today are exacerbated by the discharged battery or if there's an intermittent drain issue. I will try measuring again after charging the battery.
 

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Wondering if you ever solved this issue, I am having the same problem. 40a handles radio, navi, power doors and locks, power sockets.
 
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