Try cleaning the sensor areas - this might solve the problem with the current draw / battery drain and possible problems with the sliding doors:
Open the rear sliding door (if a door has had problems, start with that door), when fully opened, on the car body door frame on the rear side you will see the latch on the body that connects to the door when closing. And below that latch are two small round sensors side by side that make contact with the rear part of the sliding door when closed. Clean the dust and grime off with a moist paper towel by the two sensors on the body and on the area of the door where the two sensors make contact. This may work. Read details of the whole problem encountered below, and if needed, try other solutions here:
Honda Odyssey Questions - sllding door not latching - CarGurus
The problem originated with the passenger sliding door not closing properly - it would go in, and then a second later would come back out a bit but would still looked closed. But trying to get it to close took a while, and one it was closed, that door was not used for a while and the doors were set in manual mode.
A few months later, the 1-year old battery in the car died and was replaced. A few days later the new battery died, so a current draw / battery drain was suspected when the car was off. A multimeter (set to 10A mode) was used by removing the negative battery terminal and connecting one meter lead to that battery cable and the other meter lead to the negative battery post (reverse/swap the meter leads if the meter shows a negative current draw). Finding a way to clamp the meter leads to the battery and the cable is helpful when troubleshooting (weight, alligator clips, tape, etc.). A 500mA (.5A) current draw was found when the car was completely off (fluctuations would occur when opening the door or first connecting the meter - which was normal because of all the gadgets turning on and off).
Under the main fuse relay box under the hood, all fuses and relays were removed one at a time. This revealed that by removing the 40A fuse, the current draw went away. More internet searching and auto manual reading was done to discover that 3 or so fuses in the fuse panel on the driver's side could help further isolate the problem circuit.
The 40A fuse under the hood was put back in, then fuses in the fuse panel on the driver's side were removed one at a time. When the #7, 7-1/2A, fuse was removed, the current draw went away. Removing this temporarily kept the battery from draining until the problem was solved. The auto manual will indicate which circuits this fuse connects to, including AC Clutch Fan Relay and Sliding Doors, among others. The AC Clutch Fan Relay and similar relays under the hood are only $5 each, so as a potentially quick and easy fix, these were replaced, but it did not fix the problem and the current drain was still there. It is not clear if removing the relay would cause the current draw to go away if that relay was stuck closed. It would make sense that it would, but when these were removed during the initial troubleshooting, the current draw did not go away, so it was suspected that the relays were OK and that these were not the problem. But because others have solved the problem this way, this was tried anyway because it was quick and easy to try. But it did not fix it. So one of the other items connected to the #7 fuse was the sliding door,
The passenger sliding door was suspected because of the problems a few months prior. With the doors in manual mode, experimenting with it and opening it and closing it with the multimeter attached to the battery and while observing the current, the current drain went away for a moment, but this was not repeatable, but the problem was suspected to be related to the door.
Additional online searching was done and this forum was found, and information about problem latches led to that possibility. After observing the latches, nothing was particularly noticeable without taking anything apart. However, two little round side by side sensors on the body under the door latch on the rear side were observed - not quite sure what kind of sensors these are or how they work, but if they are magnetic then it is possible that they could be related to the problem. A film of dust and grime was noticed on both the door and the body where the sensors meet the door. A handy wipe (or moist paper towel) was used to clean these areas to remove the dust and grime film so that the sensors could make clean contacts to the door.
After doing this, with the doors still in manual mode, it was noticed that the current draw went away when the door was closed. To make sure if this might have fixed the problem, the multimeter was removed and the battery cable reconnected and both doors were put in automatic mode and the door that had problems now operated normally, and was compared to the other door and both doors appeared to operate normally. The doors, when closed, would pull in and then quickly come back out just a but to the normal closed position. Where as before, the bad door would pull in, then after a brief pause would pop back out a bit - the difference being the brief pause.
After testing the doors in automatic mode, the battery cable was removed and the multimeter reinserted to double check the battery drain, and there was no longer a drain on the battery with the car completely off. But when first connecting the meter to the battery and battery cable, it appears that there is a momentary drain of about 1A, which then drops down to 500mA (.5A) and then goes to 0, but then pops back up to 500mA a few times, and then finally rests at 0 - this may be the normal programmed routine related to the control modules that are controlling the doors.
Bottom line, try cleaning the sensors first and where they make contact with the door. Try this on both doors.
If no luck, try replacing the AC Fan Clutch Relay or adjacent related relays. If no luck with the relays, read on below,
and also try
Honda Odyssey Questions - sllding door not latching - CarGurus . Good luck !!!