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Wondering if you ever solved this issue, I am having the same problem. 40a handles radio, navi, power doors and locks, power sockets.
I have not solved this issue; we're just careful not to leave the sliding doors open with the windows down so that they don't get left overnight in the "half open" position. There was one night when I forgot, and much to my surprise the battery was OK in the morning. I haven't gone back and measured current in the various states.
 

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Several years ago, my 2008 Ody had battery drained over night, repeatedly.

I tracked it to a fuse on driver side controlling door locks, sliding door, radio, etc. It drew 170 miliamps.

Without the diagnostic computer, couldn't pinpoint the culprit, so I had to bring to the Honda dealer.
They tracked it down to the door lock cylinder on driver side.
Corrosion caused something to short to ground.

$250 or $300 for new part and labor and no more problem since.
 

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had 380 milliamp drain on my 2006 ex that would kill my battery overnight. traced it back to the #7 fuse on driverside fuse panel. removed fuse installed ammeter. discovered that if the door was closed automatically it would retain the 380 current draw but if closed manually the current draw would settle to around 15 milliamps. found the ratchet micro switch on the rear latch assembly was not functioning properly. according to the service manual the switch work as follows. open when the latch is open, close when in half latch open while traveling from half latch to full latch and close at full latch position. Mine was not closing at half latch I bent the arm to the switch to allow it to close at half latch position. Its been working great all day.
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Sorry i know its pretty old but update on this? I have a power draw that goes to fuse # 7 back up / acc. Took out all the fuses and relays in the two under hood fuse boxes and the ones on the driver and passenger side. Took out the side panel for the indoor fuse box to access and take out the relays as well. The draw has still remained.
I have a 07 touring, everything works fine except for the auto tail gate that i have to push into lock sometimes. The parking system has been shut off because of error message, which is think is due to a slight bump right over the rear sensor.
 

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How much is the power draw? Most of the time, the power draw on fuse #7 is due to a problem in one of the sliding door rear latches. There are four different microswitches that have to trip at exactly the right time. A failed switch or dirty latch can cause these switches to not trip and you'll get a parasitic amp draw. Haven't run into or seen this with the tailgate, though.
 

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No, the latch is the mechanism in the rear of the door that latches and releases the rear of the door. it also has an electric motor attached that pulls the door in tight at the rear when closed. you can see the part that latches to the striker through the small opening in the door if you look at the rear of the door from the back when opened. the opening has two 10mm bolts above it and one below it. The inner door panel needs to be removed, and there are a few more bolts holding it in behind the panel. I think the window track needs to be removed to. It's a lot of work to replace, but I suspect that may be your problem.
Now that it's cold again I had the issue where the door draws in, doesn't latch, then relaxes back out. This issue showed up last year during winter as well. I removed the latch assembly and found that the mechanism that locks the latch in place when closed, and releases it when opening the door, was not fully rotating to contact a switch sufficiently. Cleaned the area and all works well now. It looks like one may be able to spray WD40 through one of the bolt holes and hit close enough to release the sticking part. See attached image
 

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I assume what you are recommending is to spray through this bolt hole without actually removing the assembly as you did in your photo?

Thanks.
 

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Yeah, that's a great idea. Can't hurt to try that. Remember, however, Wd40 is not a lubricant. It cleans and displaces water but is a poor Lube. I'd want to spray some lithium grease down in there.
 

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Yeah, that's a great idea. Can't hurt to try that. Remember, however, Wd40 is not a lubricant. It cleans and displaces water but is a poor Lube. I'd want to spray some lithium grease down in there.
I could have been more clear that I meant next time I'll be trying to hit the stuck component through the bolt hole without removing anything else. I saw some comments that lithium grease may be a little thick for some applications. I wasn't sure if this would be one of them. Great suggestion to reapply some type of grease. I may just shoot some through the bolt hole given that suggestion and see if it sticks!
 

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Given this clarification, it would be helpful to have a better description, or better yet a photograph of the installed part, showing exactly which bolt hole to spray through and where it is located. Thank you.
 

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If you're lucky the lube will work. In my case it did not. I removed the rear latch assembly. The moving parts were not stuck. I checked the switches and they seemed ok..
I checked the resistance of the motor and it was 27 ohms..
I took the screws out and pried the motor open. Removed the armature, put it in a drill and wrapped a narrow strip of 600 grit sandpaper around the commutator where the brushes contact it and cleaned the dark band off the commutator. I got most of the dark band off. I blew off any particles with compressed air then cleaned the armature and old brushes with swab and alcohol. Reassembled by putting the armature in the side with the brushes first then quickly put the part with the magnets down over it.

The motor then had about 1 ohm of resistance. That fixed that rear latch assembly. It even sounds different when the rear latch locks now.

Fixed the latching of the door and the power draw of 375 mA, which dropped to 28 mA on our 07 EX.
 

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The dark band on the commutator, (where the brushes contact), and the 27 ohm resistance makes me think they all get that way over time, unless they used different brushes on some of the motors.
Thankfully the brushes were not wore down too short to still work.

I removed the three screws, (to the best of my memory it was three), the motor did not just come apart like I thought it would.
I had to push a thin blade, (putty knife), between the rubber seal and metal housing to pry it loose, after I did that the motor came apart easily and was very clean inside. I figured there would be a lot of debris from worn brushes but I didn't notice any. The thick rubber seal does a good job of keeping dirt and water out of the motor.
 
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