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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey gang, hoping to get some of your thoughts on this problem I'm now having.

I have a 2010 Odyssey, bought it a couple of years ago. Never had any issue with battery, charge, etc. A few weeks back, we all got covid, we (all fam) had to go to hospital. When we came back, I didn't notice the light above one of the passenger seats (baby seat) was left on.

So quarantine whatever 5 days not going anywhere, I go to start the car, nada. Dead as can be, not one light anywhere in the car. Put on my trickle charger, no go. Borrowed a jump starter battery and ran the engine for a while higher rev 2,000, to charge the battery enough, then put on my trickle charger and left it on for 12-14 hours.

Everything great the day after it showed fully charged. Even did a road trip 40min highway speed. So at this point I'm feeling good about the battery being back to "normal".

Two days later, wife takes the car for some errands, calls me tells me as she was parking all the lights went crazy on the dashboard, and then would not start back up (later she told me on the way to the parking lot the battery light also came on). This was early afternoon.

Went in the late evening to the car with the jumpstarter, but car started and didn't need it. HOWEVER
1) I am now hearing a higher pitched sound from alternator, not like belt sqealing, but kind of high pitched sound I never noticed before.
2) Battery light was on - ALTHOUGH with the OBD2 via Torque app I'm seeing between 13.5-14.1 voltage on battery.

Made it home.

Put on trickle charger again overnight, went to 100%. Removed trickle charger. Battery measured at 12.6V.
A day later (today) tried to start the car, nada. Battery voltage 10.6V (car unused since charged battery)

Checked lights inside one, nothing. Parasitic drain, I'm seeing 24mA, when I remove Fuse15 under the good, goes to 2mA; plop the fuse back in, high 1.3A draw, then goes down to 24mA. Seems anything under 30mA is ok.

Not sure what to check now, I don't know how my battery got to 10.6V from 12.6V over 24hrs. I don't think the 24mA drain would do it. Did having my battery totally drained kill it?

Additionally, when I started the car and checked voltage on battery, I see that the alternator is not providing solid 14.xV, but instead jumping all over from 13.4+ to 14.3ish, sometime just goes back to 12.5/6V...
>I saw a video calling out the ELD (Electronic Load Detector) replacement as it was having the same symptom while alternator charging - voltage all over the place..
The battery was replaced in 2016, it's 24Group 650CCA

Thoughts? Sorry long post folks.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, I was planning on taking it to Canadian Tire to get it tested on their bench, I'll likely buy a replacement there if I need to so it will be handy not to have to carry it back there for the core refund.
 

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Bolt - 2006 Honda Odyssey (EX)
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Also, don't use the alternator to charge up a dead battery. Only shortens the life of the alternator dramatically.
 

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Hey gang, hoping to get some of your thoughts on this problem I'm now having.

I have a 2010 Odyssey, bought it a couple of years ago. Never had any issue with battery, charge, etc. A few weeks back, we all got covid, we (all fam) had to go to hospital. When we came back, I didn't notice the light above one of the passenger seats (baby seat) was left on.

So quarantine whatever 5 days not going anywhere, I go to start the car, nada. Dead as can be, not one light anywhere in the car. Put on my trickle charger, no go. Borrowed a jump starter battery and ran the engine for a while higher rev 2,000, to charge the battery enough, then put on my trickle charger and left it on for 12-14 hours.

Everything great the day after it showed fully charged. Even did a road trip 40min highway speed. So at this point I'm feeling good about the battery being back to "normal".

Two days later, wife takes the car for some errands, calls me tells me as she was parking all the lights went crazy on the dashboard, and then would not start back up (later she told me on the way to the parking lot the battery light also came on). This was early afternoon.

Went in the late evening to the car with the jumpstarter, but car started and didn't need it. HOWEVER
1) I am now hearing a higher pitched sound from alternator, not like belt sqealing, but kind of high pitched sound I never noticed before.
2) Battery light was on - ALTHOUGH with the OBD2 via Torque app I'm seeing between 13.5-14.1 voltage on battery.

Made it home.

Put on trickle charger again overnight, went to 100%. Removed trickle charger. Battery measured at 12.6V.
A day later (today) tried to start the car, nada. Battery voltage 10.6V (car unused since charged battery)

Checked lights inside one, nothing. Parasitic drain, I'm seeing 24mA, when I remove Fuse15 under the good, goes to 2mA; plop the fuse back in, high 1.3A draw, then goes down to 24mA. Seems anything under 30mA is ok.

Not sure what to check now, I don't know how my battery got to 10.6V from 12.6V over 24hrs. I don't think the 24mA drain would do it. Did having my battery totally drained kill it?

Additionally, when I started the car and checked voltage on battery, I see that the alternator is not providing solid 14.xV, but instead jumping all over from 13.4+ to 14.3ish, sometime just goes back to 12.5/6V...


The battery was replaced in 2016, it's 24Group 650CCA

Thoughts? Sorry long post folks.
Thanks
I don't know if you are a AAA member and whether AAA in Canada offers a "On-the-spot replacement and testing of your battery and charging system"?

It's available in some area (but not all areas).

Their batteries have a 6-year warranty w/ a 3 year FREE replacement. AAA Members save a minimum of $25 on battery price and they include the disposal and recycling of your old battery.


Good luck : )
 

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Battery that old (since 2016) would be suspect #1.
 

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The high pitched sound you're hearing is the diodes in the alternator. Your alternator is failing. It was probably worn already and then forcing it to charge a dead battery killed it the rest of the way. Someone above noted not to charge a dead battery with the alternator if it can be helped. Alternators are made to keep batteries charged, not charge them from dead.

You most likely need a new alternator AND a new battery. Be sure to stick with Denso brand reman alternators only. If you try and pick something up from your local parts house you'll regret it. Been there done that too many times.
 

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Also, the battery light on is 100% a bad alternator. The light is controlled by the alternator so if the light is on while it's running the alternator is causing it. I've seen good alternators (ones that charge the battery OK) turn on the light and I've seen failed alternators not turn on the light. One thing is certain, however, and that is if the battery light is on, the alternator is the cause.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I replaced the battery today with a new one. Tested it before starting the car, it was at 12.68 I believe.
Turned on the car, checked the voltage, I was seeing 14.46V steady, no changes (as previously moving from 13.6 to 14.4). Will keep an eye on this and see, I hope I didn't kill the alternator, you live you learn.

Alternators are expensive in Canada, I think most posters here are from the US, where pretty much everything is much cheaper and much more accessible. What I'm finding for Denso 210-0750
$310 to $335+tax for remanufactured (includes core charge) and higher. New ones are around the $500 mark..

Will keep an eye out (both for the battery light but will pop up the Torque app with the little BT OBD2 connector as I have the battery voltage up on the display in the app), would appreciate if anyone in Canada would let me know where they get some better pricing (is it possible?).

Thanks all for the help.
 

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Bolt - 2006 Honda Odyssey (EX)
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Remember that it's normal for the battery voltage to eventually drop down into the 12.X volt range after the engine is warmed up and there's not much load. That is not a sign of an alternator problem. Hondas of this era have dual stage charging and it will eventually drop down to low charge mode (simply maintaining the battery rather than charging it at 14 volts) when load is minimal. It should go back up to the 14 volt range when there is load back on the system (ex: turning on the headlights).
 

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I think a bad failing battery lead to alt failure. The alt may have been on the way out. Still I would go the path of least resistance - replace battery first, then replace the alt if it did not help. When replacing alt, if you do it yourself, suggest to lift the front, remove passenger wheel and remove the wiper fluid reservoir. IMO that makes a huge difference when wiggling the alt out. When doing it look for oil seepage from the VTEC control valve, if there is oil there, make sure to either replace the top with OEM part or use aftermarket gasket (a few dollar item). (When I last looked Honda does not sell gaskets separately, nor do they sell just the top. Only the whole valve assembly). There is a TSB on that one. Apparently rubber gasket fails over time. Oil drips on the alt leading to its premature demise.
 
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