Battery questions

2157 Views 37 Replies 18 Participants Last post by jdm06ody, 3 mo ago

jamsomito

Discussion Starter · 3 mo ago

2

My battery is original in my 2016 Ody SE, so almost 8 years old. It died on me a couple times last summer in my driveway for some hours-long deep cleanings (accessory power). Since then I have kept jumper cables in the trunk, and I just needed them a week ago after sitting on a conference call in a parking lot for 45 mins. I realized when the infotainment screen flickered that I was in trouble... Looked around and I had left the fan running on low.

Anyways, I want a battery with the best reserve capacity. I'm interested in an AGM battery. We use the DVD player, onboard vacuum, power a camper trailer 12v fridge when on the road, and I frequently work from the car. From my searches, it looks like the Odyssey Extreme batteries win in this category. I can get a size 24F for about $350 locally. https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...odp-agm24f-group-size-24f-840-cca/1049457_0_0

Only problem is my current battery is a 24R (pic at bottom), which is the same size but with reversed terminals. I could just put the battery in backwards, but my cables are too short. Would it be ill-advised to get a red and black extension to make this battery work?

If the extensions aren't a good idea, can anyone recommend me the next best AGM battery for reserve capacity? As long as it's under $400 I don't really care about cost. This will likely be the last battery I buy for this vehicle.

Thanks for any thoughts.

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21 - 38 of 38 Posts

mak474

· #21 · 3 mo ago

Only input I have is stay away from Optima. Just buy a regular one before buying an Optima. I used to be a huge fan of Optima, but quality is horrid now. First Optima I had lasted 10yr, the next 3 only lasted 1, 3 and 2yr.
Also, newer vehicles with start stop or idle stop are the ones that have issues going from STD to AGM because generally AGM is going to have a higher CCA rating (capacity). If the ECM doesn't know a higher CCA rating battery has been installed it can tax the charging system to the point that it can fry the ECM or the battery monitoring system. I believe Honda brought the idle stop into the 2018+ models so you should be good to add an AGM. On newer VWs I can go into the ECM and program the new CCA rating in as well as tell the ECM it has an AGM battery, which changes how it re-charges the battery. I'd be surprised if Honda doesn't have this capability at the dealer level.

jamsomito

Discussion Starter · #22 · 3 mo ago

deleted - duplicate post, sorry.

CroMath

· #23 · 3 mo ago

Just for easy reference: The 'R' or 'F' attached to battery size codes stand for 'Reversed' or 'Flipped' respectively. It means that the positive and negative terminals are on the opposite side of battery as compared to a regular, non-coded battery.

They mean the exact same thing and are used interchangeably - there is absolutely no difference between a 24R and a 24F battery.

Reactions: 3

phattyduck

· #24 · 3 mo ago

mak474 said:
I'd be surprised if Honda doesn't have this capability at the dealer level.

They don't, at least on the 4th gen vans.

-Charlie

mak474

· #25 · 3 mo ago

phattyduck said:
They don't, at least on the 4th gen vans.

-Charlie

Wow that's wild. I can do it at home with VCDS on 2019+ VW / Audi with a $200 VCDS scanner. Hell, I can even permanently disable start stop with it.
I'd stay away from AGM on any vehicle with start/stop if you can't update the ECM coding.
VW has been doing this I think largely to lock most people into returning to the dealer to replace the battery. The dealer charges over $300 to replace a battery because they always code a new battery into the ECM, there have even been failed ECMs and BMS (bat monitoring sys) where people have changed them themselves and not coded them. Look for this to be a common theme with other manufactures in the future.

CroMath

· #26 · 3 mo ago

phattyduck said:
They don't, at least on the 4th gen vans.

-Charlie

Because it's irrelevant on gen 4 vans. For the gen 5s I presume it's different - it was possible (at least early on in the production run; I haven't kept up with the refreshes because I don't really care) to get a van with either a FLA or AGM battery depending on whether or not it had idle-stop. But that isn't really important to the gen 4 conversation.

Reactions: 1

dvpatel

· #27 · 3 mo ago

jamsomito said:
Well folks, I waffled too long on this. I couldn't find clear info on whether the AGM was actually advisable over just anecdotal evidence of having no issues. I'm leaning more and more towards it being okay, but it's too late now.
:
:
:
Thank you to everyone for the discussion. Still curious if there's a better battery for reserve capacity tho...

Wow. So, you paid almost double (compared to an Everstart Maxx), got 1 year extra warranty for that and got 10 fewer mins in reserve capacity. Awesome.

Classic case of analysis paralysis.

As you say, too late now so no point in crying over spilt milk.

jamsomito

Discussion Starter · #28 · 3 mo ago

dvpatel said:
Wow. So, you paid almost double (compared to an Everstart Maxx), got 1 year extra warranty for that and got 10 fewer mins in reserve capacity. Awesome.

Classic case of analysis paralysis.

As you say, too late now so no point in crying over spilt milk.

The everstart is also 130min reserve capacity. It wasn't an option when I needed it. Sorry to have offended you by explaining my situation.

Reactions: 3

white2015

· #29 · 3 mo ago

jamsomito said:
The everstart is also 130min reserve capacity. It wasn't an option when I needed it. Sorry to have offended you by explaining my situation.

Welcome to Odyclub 😆😆😆

dvpatel

· #30 · 3 mo ago

jamsomito said:
The everstart is also 130min reserve capacity. It wasn't an option when I needed it. Sorry to have offended you by explaining my situation.

My cursory search sows it as 140 mins.

That said, I have never seen anyone before you so tunnel visioned on reserve capacity. ALL of them only go after CCA. You’re the first one that I have seen who even factored that in. You’re also the FIRST one I have seen who got those many years out of the POS Honda factory battery.

Reactions: 1

oldskewel

· #31 · 3 mo ago

jamsomito said:
... so I just went with the longest warrantied flooded lead acid Die Hard battery (Platinum). It still has a reserve capacity of 130 minutes, which I thought was pretty good. ...

Sounds like you made a good decision with the information you had.

It takes a lot of knowledge to sift through all the folklore out there on the intertubes and even here on odyclub. Lucky for you that you had already narrowed the focus of the information you were looking for, otherwise you'd be likely to get color coded tables as found on the internet.

And it sounds like you ended up with something that will work well for you. Shopping for FLA batteries based on warranty is often a good approach.

For the way you use your car, reserve capacity does sound like the main factor to shop for. Things like CCA tend to be cared about by people in cold climates (where battery output current is reduced by the cold) who have problems with weak starting. I've never had problems with that - dead, click click click, sure, but never weak due to cold.

a multimeter and battery charger would be good to have, going forward.

Reactions: 3

skelsall

· #32 · 3 mo ago

When my classic Mustang (& I) were younger, I learned 24F meant Group 24 “Ford”, as Ford was the only car maker designed for a 24 with reversed terminal locations…!

“24R” is another name for “24F”.

Top batteries per Consumer Reports are the premium versions (grades, as most brands offer two or more grades with differing capacities and/or warranty periods).

I have had excellent life with EverStart MAXX (Walmart) and DieHard Gold… and now I have standardized all my vehicles to 24F! None of my Hondas required any change of terminal cables…

I even replaced the tiny (anemic) 51R of our 2013 Accord with 24F, using Genuine Honda parts (tray, shield, hold-down brace & rods) using part numbers posted on an Accord Forum.

I’m glad OP has gotten a new, proper sized battery…!

Reactions: 1

phattyduck

· #33 · 3 mo ago

skelsall said:
I even replaced the tiny (anemic) 51R of our 2013 Accord with 24F

Funny thing, the only time I've used a 51R was to replace a group 35 (1" shorter 24F, basically) when I was doing a motor swap - needed extra room for a larger airbox... I run a Miata battery (tiny!) in another car due to an engine swap... I have to keep that one on a battery tender if I don't drive it every other day.

Luckily, the Odyssey and 4Runner both use a 24F - much better for 'daily' use. The Volt has a smaller AGM battery - but that one doesn't start the engine, so it has different needs (and no normal alternator).

-Charlie

Reactions: 1

brian3

· #34 · 3 mo ago

mak474 said:
Wow that's wild. I can do it at home with VCDS on 2019+ VW / Audi with a $200 VCDS scanner. Hell, I can even permanently disable start stop with it.
I'd stay away from AGM on any vehicle with start/stop if you can't update the ECM coding.
VW has been doing this I think largely to lock most people into returning to the dealer to replace the battery. The dealer charges over $300 to replace a battery because they always code a new battery into the ECM, there have even been failed ECMs and BMS (bat monitoring sys) where people have changed them themselves and not coded them. Look for this to be a common theme with other manufactures in the future.

Well AGM is pretty much all they leave the factory with when you have a start/stop feature. Changing them back to FLA is a no no.

191145

· #35 · 3 mo ago

I'm very glad you got the regular battery that would hook up in your car to the existing set-up with no jack-leg hillbilly battery wiring. You probably saved yourself from a fire or at least a breakdown out in the woods somewhere. The only crazy part of it is that you actually considered doing some crap like that to the family car.

Reactions: 1

0dyfamily

· #36 · 3 mo ago (Edited)

I always thought that most Hondas used the 24F Group size (allows the terminal "side" to be inboard for a driver's-side-mounted battery, with the positive closer to the starter).

191145 said:
I'm very glad you got the regular battery that would hook up in your car to the existing set-up with no jack-leg hillbilly battery wiring. You probably saved yourself from a fire or at least a breakdown out in the woods somewhere.

I was thinking that, too. Use the correct battery, for sure, brother!

CroMath said:
Yuasa batteries are for motorcycles and other powersports vehicles with their own electrical system designs, parts, demands and characteristics. They're not talking about passenger vehicle contexts. They don't even produce batteries capable of going into a common passenger vehicle

You won't even believe this ... they make car batteries. I found this out a couple years ago when I was looking for a Yuasa float charger (model YUA1201501 ... if you can find one in good shape, get it ... very smart charger / maintainer). My mind was blown. I didn't think they made any battery that was larger than a loaf of bread!

DanaH said:
Or third alternative is to install in the back somewhere a 2nd deep-cycle type battery (a house battery) that can be setup to charge from the start battery when engine is running. Better to run that fridge and other non-automotive loads on a house battery than get stranded somewhere ;-). House battery could be either FLA or smaller Li-ion type.

DanaH

I think highly of this idea!

For Moby Dick (my ancient tournament bass boat) I kept my pair of deep cycle trolling motor batteries (wired for a 24V Minn Kota) separate from the main crank battery. I had individual parts of the "house" 12V system wired to each deep cycle trolling motor battery, essentially using "half" of the trolling motor system for one half of the boat, the other battery for the other half .. I may have this wrong ... I had this weird "charge equalizer" system, one of the first of its type. The crank battery had first priority on the charging system that only gave "available power" to charge the trolling system when the cranking system was healthy.

Deep cycle batteries are just that ... made to handle medium but continuous usage and survive having most of their charge capacity put to use, repeatedly. They're not supposed to crank an engine, but they can put out the current you need for "work" with good capacity and lifespan.

Never got stuck on the lake, even when I ran the pair of trolling motor batteries down with electric motoring and lights for fishing at night, as I ran those systems isolated from the cranking battery.

Again, this sounds like a winner if you're so inclined to get a marine battery box (or two!) and put some deep cycle batteries in the luggage well.

Just getting excited over an idea that resonates with me! 😁 😁 😁

OF

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DanaH

· #37 · 3 mo ago

Original Poster - Did the new battery terminals fit the battery cables clamps? Typically sleeves are needed to get the non-honda smaller diameter battery posts to fit.

jdm06ody

· #38 · 3 mo ago

jamsomito said:
My battery is original in my 2016 Ody SE, so almost 8 years old. It died on me a couple times last summer in my driveway for some hours-long deep cleanings (accessory power). Since then I have kept jumper cables in the trunk, and I just needed them a week ago after sitting on a conference call in a parking lot for 45 mins. I realized when the infotainment screen flickered that I was in trouble... Looked around and I had left the fan running on low.

Anyways, I want a battery with the best reserve capacity. I'm interested in an AGM battery. We use the DVD player, onboard vacuum, power a camper trailer 12v fridge when on the road, and I frequently work from the car. From my searches, it looks like the Odyssey Extreme batteries win in this category. I can get a size 24F for about $350 locally. https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...odp-agm24f-group-size-24f-840-cca/1049457_0_0

Only problem is my current battery is a 24R (pic at bottom), which is the same size but with reversed terminals. I could just put the battery in backwards, but my cables are too short. Would it be ill-advised to get a red and black extension to make this battery work?

If the extensions aren't a good idea, can anyone recommend me the next best AGM battery for reserve capacity? As long as it's under $400 I don't really care about cost. This will likely be the last battery I buy for this vehicle.

Thanks for any thoughts.

View attachment 173922

View attachment 173921

The Salt dirt moisture on top of your battery will act as conductor also contributes to a fast discharging of your battery.
if you don't service your battery cleaning the cable post clean the top off the battery you will avoid the unknown parasitic drain.

Reactions: 1

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