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Best Replacement Brake Rotors and Pads?

342K views 312 replies 135 participants last post by  brybo86 
#1 ·
Which replacement rotors and pads do you recommend? I'm thinking of replacing my stock (warped) rotors with Centric rotors, but staying with the OEM pads. Thanks in advance for any replies.
 
#2 ·
I have had good luck with raybestos on my other cars. Let us know what you end up using since I will need to do mine soon. Hopefully this thread will not get closed and others can chime in.
 
#37 ·
I am also interested in which of the many many choices are the "best" (value). I see lots of mention of Centric, but when I go to RockAuto I mean there are so many choices, and even in the 3 categories. And there is no real information about them. What is the real difference between a Centric metallic vs ceramic in the "economy" section vs the "daily driver" section. I can see the PRICE difference but is there any real difference in performance or longevity, or is this all just marketing? Just curious. Is this like the wine list at a restaurant where you don't pick the CHEAPEST but only because, well, you don't want to pick the cheapest because you assume there is something better, so you choose something in the middle?

I, for one, would be interested to understand what is the real difference between a Centric brake pad in the "Economy" section vs the "Daily Driver" section so I'd know what I am getting or not getting for the extra money.

Any thoughts?
 
#5 ·
well just last weekend, I just put on some Centric rotors and their posi-quiet ceramic pads on the front of our van. Was tired of the warped rotors or brake judder or whatever you want to call it, I felt it was best (and easiest) to just change everything rather than wasting my time going to the dealer to see if they would do anything. So far they feel fine and no brake dust, but like I said it's only been a week, time will tell...
 
#32 ·
Thanks for the replies.

SteveV: Please let us know how the rotors and pads work out for you. I hope that combination works well for you.
have 10k miles now on the front Centric blank rotors and Centric ceramic pads and they still work like new with no shuddering or warpage and very little brake dust. I would recommend them.
 
#7 ·
I have about 12K miles on my van. I dont brake hard or suddenly, but already the car wobbles when pressing the brakes. Im assuming the rotors have warped. Is this covered under Warranty? I've been hearing conflicting information on brakes/suspension warranty.
 
#17 ·
This happened on my 2005 LX when it had 15K. The dealer turned them at 15K then replaced the rotors at 30K under the warranty. I had rotor issues on all Honda Odysseys I have owned (1998, 2002, 2005). The rotors are just too weak fort the weight - I purchased Brembo rotors but soon or later they will warp. Too much heat is being generated to stop a heavy vehicle. On my 05 LX, I turned them at 50K and the final one at 85K. I will be buying a set of Brembos next time around. These rotors are thicker so you can turn them a few times before throwing them away. Invest some money on an impact screw driver, a drill set and 8M bolts (those screws from the factory are PITA to take out even with an impact screw driver). 8M bolts are nice to push the rotors out and I don't care for hammer method.
 
#11 ·
Free shipping, free pads, Life time warranty. On some car they use OEM rotors. I bought a set for my E55 AMG and the rotors are 2-piece OEM rotors that they dimple and slotted. Can't beat the life time warranty.
Premium Dimpled and Slotted Brake Rotors
This is where I got rotors and pads for our '07 MDX, dimpled and slotted. Highly recommended on mdxers.com. Was really stoked about putting them on until the MDX was totaled by an 80 year old woman! Still have the set BTW. Wish I could stuff them on the Ody...
 
#12 ·
I just replaced my fronts with Power Slot rotors and Centric Posi-quiet pads.
The pads suck when cold and great when warmed up. I threw away my stock pads so I wish I could go back.
I'm going to try another set of pads as I think the rotors are just fine.
I would not use the Posi Quiets. Too slippery when cold. I find myself having to apply my brakes further back from OEM pads.
 
#13 ·
My Odyssey has a "death wobble" when I'm going down a hill (or mountain out here) and have to apply the brakes. I try to put it into low gear, but sometimes it doesn't catch. My 2006 model did this, as well. It's in the shop right now to check the rotors. Do you think this is a problem on all the 2011 vehicles, or just for us who are not flatlanders?
 
#14 ·
I have found factory rotors do suck.

You should buy the best rotors you can afford... do not cheap out there. Any local auto parts store can supply those. For pads, I like Wagner, again buying the best ones you can afford. When it comes to brake parts you get what you pay for. And for the price, I always replace the pads with new rotors. Do it once, do it right.
 
#208 ·
I have found factory rotors do suck.

You should buy the best rotors you can afford... do not cheap out there. Any local auto parts store can supply those. For pads, I like Wagner, again buying the best ones you can afford. When it comes to brake parts you get what you pay for. And for the price, I always replace the pads with new rotors. Do it once, do it right.
second this. sometimes you gotta pay the price for the quality you want. for pads i like wagner as well and stoptech.
 
#16 ·
I would recommend you try the following before replacing your rotors and pads: The gist of the article is that warped rotors are quite rare, but pad deposits from having the brakes on after a hard stop, say at a stop light, can make it feel like the rotor is "warped," when in fact you merely have an uneven surface you're braking on. The article suggests finding an open road with few cars on it and doing hard decelerations from 70mph - 5mph 6-8 times and then letting the brakes cool for 10 min without the brakes on. This can burn off the deposits and in a way, rebed the pads to the rotor. I do this whenever I get new pads, along with putting the car in park at stop lights after getting off the freeway, and I've never ever had a "warped rotor" feel to my brakes on any cars. It's worth a try, and is very fun. Do it when you get new rotors/pads or even just new pads. The same process is standard in the mountain bike industry as well for new pads/rotors/brake sets, and they use up to 4-pot hydraulic disc brakes just like cars.
Link to article by Stoptech Brakes
 
#20 ·
Chiming in late... newbie here. I was searching the forums to see if anyone was having the same issues with brake shimmy as I am. This is our 4th Odyssey (we've pretty much had one of each generation) with one Sienna SE in between. We didn't experience the brake issues we've experienced in all of our Odysseys.

Just to be clear..... I did the 60mph then slamming the brakes full on (3x) - I took out everything that was loose in the van before I did this (unbelievable how much stuff the wife and kids have stored in this thing). After the braking experiment I used compressed air to blow out any crud (all 4 corners). It didn't work. Was fun though, reminded me of my senior paper on accident investigation with vehicles equipped with ABS systems (it was new back then).
 
#21 ·
Seriously, as anyone researched MDX or RL brakes in place of Odyssey hardware? I will have to start digging in the parts catalogs for any common denominators such as steering knuckles with the same part numbers... Might get lucky. I know that the 7th Gen Accord 6sp coupes had the same rotors as my 01 Odyssey... Something has to fit.
 
#23 · (Edited)
When hitting the brake when driving on high speed (60 mph) the steering wheel viberates. It is really anoying. It is due to a warped rotor?
The 2011 Odyssey is only around 16k. I am thiking I will check out with the dealer and hear what they say.

BTW, what rotor is good if I were to replace them myself. Another problem is I don't even know whether the front or rear rotor is bad.
 
#26 ·
I figure I'd rather change it earlier than later before the screws are locked up. It is a good DIY experience. Impact driver made a difference and made the join much easier.
I made a mistake and over tightended a caliper bolt and snappe it. I had to wait for a day to get the part becuase even dealers don't have it ready in stock. The torque is about 30lb-ft (or 27 to be pricese?) as I researched. Learned my lesson to use a torque wench.
ALso torque the lug nuts too to 94 ft-lbs.
 
#27 ·
My rotors warped in about 12K dealer turned them down for free but it last about 2K and then same issue again.............
Finally i got tired of this BS and installed my self front and rear set of [h=1]Powerstop K5858 Evolution (Z16)[/h] Crossdrilled and sloted rotors and ceramic pads
Link below:
Powerstop K5858 Evolution (Z16) Brake Disc and Pad Kit | Auto Parts Warehouse

I got almost 6k on them so far and no warping problems ( i beat the crap out of them almost every day.....)
But couple things that you need to know:

#1 They make "humming (grinding)" noise when breaking hard
#2 They kind of suck when cold - great when warmed up (ceramic pads nature)
#3 For the amount of money you pay its a good deal.

Hope that you find it use full...........
 
#46 ·
My rotors warped in about 12K dealer turned them down for free but it last about 2K and then same issue again.............
Finally i got tired of this BS and installed my self front and rear set of Powerstop K5858 Evolution (Z16)

Crossdrilled and sloted rotors and ceramic pads
Link below:
Powerstop K5858 Evolution (Z16) Brake Disc and Pad Kit | Auto Parts Warehouse

I got almost 6k on them so far and no warping problems ( i beat the crap out of them almost every day.....)
But couple things that you need to know:

#1 They make "humming (grinding)" noise when breaking hard
#2 They kind of suck when cold - great when warmed up (ceramic pads nature)
#3 For the amount of money you pay its a good deal.

Hope that you find it use full...........
My long mileage report from my power slots... I'm going to be swapping them out for the stock units.
During hard braking, there is considerable noise from the slotted rotors. The pads are horrible cold.
 
#28 ·
I did the same thing as szygalmen. I only did the front kit since the rears were still in very good shape. Impact driver made a difference getting the rotor retaining screw out. I have the caliper sliding pin bolts torqued to 30 ft / lbs, as that was what it was when I loosed them up. The caliper assembly mounting bolts (two of them) were torqued to 120 ft / lbs, so when I reinstalled the caliper assemblies, I used brand new bolts and torqued them in at 105 ft / lbs on a torque wrench utilizing blue Loctite. The wheels' lugnuts I have torqued down at 95 ft / lbs....

The kit was placed this last Saturday. Took me a good 3.5 hours, since I'm a slow guy. The kit got here in a timely manner from Brakes.com . Breaking in the new pads to create a new transfer film was fun. Nothing like smelling resin slightly smoking from the wheelwell! :rockon:

Hope this helps...


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#29 ·
I need to replace mine too. After reading about Centric here and going through few more threads, others used Brakemotive. So for the corolla, went with drilled-slotted from Brakemotive for the price (read Installed my BrakeMotive Rotors and Pads - LS1TECH). Those were slightly less thickness than OEMs. They have been performing well. As the pads were good I did not change them (cheap, not ceramic for now... on next change will go with Akibono's). Compared these rotors with Powerstop and both looked about the same.

About the noise, the nature of drilled-slotted is that you get a woosh noise as described in other threads.

I might need rears too. They squeal until I open and clean. They were cheap Autozone ones last year. If I do slow stops it sounds like a train stop and if I stop slower, long whining whistle. Ya fun, isn't it.

For OEM replacement, Centric standards might be ok.

I am looking to replace front set and hopefully back drums too. Can't wait to change them.
 
#30 ·
I"m looking for a brake upgrade also. I wanted to do something crazy like a stoptech kit. But haven't been able to cross reference it to any other car that may fit. Anyone able to help with this.......
 
#31 ·
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