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just want to give this thread some update.
history for my 11 Touring braking
1. stock rotor warped at around 15k.
2. Tried Stoptech Slotted with Posi Quiet pad. used it for about 10K. Too noisy for my like. My bad for thinking slot will get better stop power. it. I tried both stock pad and Posi Quiet, same noise. the slot rotor was expensive too.
3. Replace the rotor with Centric Premium and EBC Green Supreme at 25k. The green pad only for 10k-15k roughly. It does have great stop power but doesn't last long, and so dirty, also it doesn't have the same spring design as the stock pad / Posi Quiet. So i put back the Posi Quiet with the Centric Premium and this combo last from 35K to 90K roughly. A recent trip I found the driver side rotor start to show some vibration at high speed and downhill, city driving is still all fine. If I just use the van for city or flat highway traffic, the rotors are still good. I can see the driver side is rougher that the passenger side. Time to change rotor/pad again. For that mileage, i think Centric Premium is considered acceptable for me but I really don't like the brake fading and noise of the Posi Quiet at high speed downhill.
After reading some user had tried Raybestos Element3, I want to give it a try too. Metallic with Ceramic together. I also ordered the Raybestos front rotor set as well. The price is pretty good too... a lot cheaper than a set of Posi Quiet that I bought four years ago. Brake pad/rotor prices had come down a lot for this van in compare when the van is new (haha I checked my order history for the money that i spent to fix the problem). I also ordered the matching rear pad set as well. To my surprise, the Raybestos Element3 rear pad has the same spring design as the
front set (same as stock). There is not much of review for this pad online. I will update this thread once they are installed and used a some milage.
 
I've got 14 months and 22K miles now on my Meyle rotors (bought on eBay) with a set of OEM pads. Brakes still feel like brand new. They will put you through the windshield if you step on them hard. This is on my 08 Touring.
 
I've got 14 months and 22K miles now on my Meyle rotors (bought on eBay) with a set of OEM pads. Brakes still feel like brand new. They will put you through the windshield if you step on them hard. This is on my 08 Touring.
John, how do rotors contribute to stopping power? Eg, why would your Meyle rotors stop better than OEM or a high quality aftermarket rotor such as Centric premium?
 
Wanted to chime in for future Diy'ers. I went with the 2015 new designed rotor CENTRIC 12140092 C-TEK for the fronts and CENTRIC 12140072 C-TEK for the rears. The 2015 was a perfect fit for the my 2011. Then topped it off with the oem brake pads. Used a 1/2 breaker bar and an 1.25m screw to remove the rotor. After the install. I bedded it in using the 45 to 5 mph method. So far so good. Will chime back on an update next year if this vibration comes back.
 
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Just installed new rear Akebono ACT1281 pads on my 2015 EX with 74,009 miles on the OEM ones. Still had a decent amount of pad material left but I wanted to take advantage of the warm weather today and be ready for winter.
 
I just did a careful rear brake job with cryo rotors from Tirerack, Akebono 1281 pads and new complete Calipers from Rock Auto, including new brackets. I watched 10,000 videos on you tube. Everyone slaps the thing together like monkeys. My original pads were so rusted, that I really could not take them apart to see how to re-install the new clips, etc.

I had no problems getting the rotors off, but I did back off the parking brake adj wheel to pretty much zero so there would be zero drag until I get around to adjusting them. Now I realize that I have an online shop manual and it shows these stainless steel "pad retainers" on the outside of the brake shoes in the Honda documentation. The Akebono 1281 set DID NOT include these large stainless clips that attach to the outside of the pad, it only included the top and bottom retaining clips that hold the pads onto the new calipers. HELP! Do you need to go to Honda and buy the "shim pads/retainers" to put on the outside of the Akebono 1281's? The brake pads had a nice black metal piece already installed on the outside of each brake pad so I just assembled them without the "shim pads/retainers." This is my first disc pad job. I did it very carefully and I can follow instructions, but unfortunately, I just learned about these parts. I also did the one person brake bleeding of the rear brakes. So far so good, but I am afraid to put the rear wheels back on and drive the car without understanding whether I have to re-do everything and install those Honda pad shims on my Akebono pads.

Can someone that has installed rear Akebono 1281's please advise? I don't want to put the wheels back on and then have to re-do everything. Car is up on jack stands in the garage until I get help/advice.

Also, do I have to bleed all four brakes if I only opened up the two rears to install the new calipers?

2013 Odyssey with 44,000 miles

Thank you all for any help/advice you can provide!



Do
 
OK, I just checked the rear pads again by looking at them closely, and it appears that Akebono's have the metal shins already installed. Now, if someone could let me know if I have to bleed all 4 brakes if I only opened the rears to install the new rear calipers, I would greatly appreciate it.

I happened to have a set of front Akebono's on hand, and the fronts already have the outer shims installed.

I expect that the bleed screws on the front are all rusted out, so may have to put rotors, pads, and calipers on the front also, if I have to bleed all 4 brakes when just installing the rear. If there is anyone out there today, March 5, 2019 to let me know, I would really appreciate it. And thanks again!

2013 Odyssey EX-L with 44,000 miles. I think the car originated in Rhode Island and everything is rusted pretty bad....The "stealer" told me the rears had 2mm left and the fronts have 8mm, but the fronts pulsate when braking, FYI.
 
NP here, 2012 Odyssey with 65K (low miles but almost all stop and go city traffic), and really bad shuddering while braking. Now I need new brakes so I'm thinking of replacing the rotors as well and going with non-OEM parts. (Centric and Akebono seem to be a good combo that's recommended on this thread.)

Really basic question, are there only 2 front rotors? Can I just buy two rotors and 4 brake pads from the RockAuto site?
 
At the risk of sounding condescending, if you don't know this you really should stay away from working on your brakes. Brakes are not difficult but there is some knowledge and skill needed to do a good (and safe) job.

There are two rotors and four pads on the front and on the back. They are not all the same. The front is different from the rear. There is also a parking brake set up in the rear rotor/drum assembly that will need to be adjusted when you're done doing rear brakes.
 
Explain it like I'm 5.

My rear brakes need replacing anyway, and I want to fix this shuddering issue while we're at it, so, I need to buy

2 rotors for the front
8 brake pads, for front and back

Do I finally have it down?
Please note brake pads are sold as a set quality of one (1) is for both wheels so you need 2 front rotors, 1 front brake pad and 1 rear brake pad.

Rockauto explain very well here.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1278293&cc=1431007&jsn=2566
 
I replaced all 4 of my rotors on my 2013 Odyssey with Centric rotors, and replaced the rear brake pads at the same time. Shudder is gone now.

One thing to note, if you have not read it somewhere already, is that Honda has redesigned the front rotors due to the shudder issue that most of us get. Make sure you buy the newer rotors. When I bought the redesigned rotors on Rock Auto, the website said they were not compatible with my van.

The new design with Centric is part number 12040092.
 
Already replaced my rotors due to excessive shaking when breaking. The last pair probably lasted about 20,000 miles before the problem recurred. I'm going to try the redesigned OEM Honda rotors. Do I need to replace my brake pads at the same time if they are still have adequate thickness?

I replaced all 4 of my rotors on my 2013 Odyssey with Centric rotors, and replaced the rear brake pads at the same time. Shudder is gone now.

One thing to note, if you have not read it somewhere already, is that Honda has redesigned the front rotors due to the shudder issue that most of us get. Make sure you buy the newer rotors. When I bought the redesigned rotors on Rock Auto, the website said they were not compatible with my van.

The new design with Centric is part number 12040092.
 
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