Well, a few days ago I noticed smoke when I was following my van. Yep, it has a blue to it. I only noticed it during take-off from a stop. I checked the plugs and there was only oil on 3. Valves? The real question, do I replace all valves, springs, and retainers or just cylinder 3? I won't be able to do the work over here so I'm going to have to take it somewhere. I'll probably buy all the parts and just pay the labor. Suggestions?
Blue smoke and oil on plug 3
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Since we already know there is oil on the plug #3, replace the valve cover gaskets and rocker arm gaskets (beneath the rocker arm assembly). (Note, NOT the head gasket...that's totally different)
That should fix your problem.
Oil leaks from the head into the spark plug tubes, thus, burning in the combustion chamber.
That should fix your problem.
Oil leaks from the head into the spark plug tubes, thus, burning in the combustion chamber.
Joined
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249 Posts
I think he means on the tip of the plug. Any car that I have seen that leaks in the galley seals pretty well and does not fall into the chamber. I have seen many cars with bad rings coat the electrode with oil. Could also be a valve stem seal. Isolate your problem.
To diagnose what Yakuza has mentioned check the plug on the galley side and see if there is oil. If it is burning in the combustion chamber then it comes in two ways: the valve stem seals or through the rings. A leakdown will tell you which one.
To diagnose what Yakuza has mentioned check the plug on the galley side and see if there is oil. If it is burning in the combustion chamber then it comes in two ways: the valve stem seals or through the rings. A leakdown will tell you which one.
Thanks guys. Looked for my tester this morning and of course I left it in TX. I'm going to hit up the hobby shop or maybe just buy one on Amazon. Results to come.
I'm still waiting on my left rear wheel sensor to come in to hopefully fix the ABS light and the ABS start up "sound." Next will be the wiper washer that just seemed to stop working. I've checked the fuse inside on the drivers' side and the tank is full.
What fun I have in the future! I almost forgot the SRS light.
I'm still waiting on my left rear wheel sensor to come in to hopefully fix the ABS light and the ABS start up "sound." Next will be the wiper washer that just seemed to stop working. I've checked the fuse inside on the drivers' side and the tank is full.
What fun I have in the future! I almost forgot the SRS light.
Well, it seems that it was the valve seals so those were replaced and a valve adjustment too. No more oil on the plugs or blue smoke.
I also replaced the left rear sensor but the ABS light still comes on but only about every third time you start the car. I have to check the code again.
This weekend will be the cleaning the injectors and running a code again.
Thanks guys!
I also replaced the left rear sensor but the ABS light still comes on but only about every third time you start the car. I have to check the code again.
This weekend will be the cleaning the injectors and running a code again.
Thanks guys!
Joined
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26 Posts
My Chilton's manual is really disappointing me.
It doesn't seem to address the valve seal replacement.
Is this hard to do?
Can you direct me to a write-up on the steps involved?
My Ody is losing oil at an alarming rate
Thanks!
It doesn't seem to address the valve seal replacement.
Is this hard to do?
Can you direct me to a write-up on the steps involved?
My Ody is losing oil at an alarming rate
Thanks!
CalculatedRick: I tried to upload a scan from the factory manual related to valve seals, but the pdf file was too large. So here's the step by step from the manual.
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1. Turn the crankshaft so that the No. 1 & the No. 4 pistons are at top dead center (TDC).
2. Remove the cylinder head cover & the rocker arm assembly.
NOTE: When removing or installing the rocker arm assembly, do not remove the camshaft holder bolts. The bolts will keep the holders, springs and rocker arms on the shaft.
3. Remove the fuel injectors and the wire harness. [I didn't do this step when I replaced my valve stem seals.]
4-6. [Steps 4-6 refer to the factory recommended Snap-on valve spring compressor YA8845 with YA8845-2A 7/8" attachment. I won't list the steps here since you probably will be using a different valve spring compressor.]
Intake Side:
7. Insert an air adaptor into the spark plug hole. Pump air into the cylinder to keep the valve closed while compressing the springs and removing the valve keepers.
NOTE: Put shop towels over the oil passages to prevent the valve keepers from falling in to the cylinder head.
8. [more stuff here about the snap-on tool]
9. [Using your valve spring compressor] compress the valve spring and remove the keepers from the valve stem. Slowly release pressure on the spring.
10. Remove the valve seals.
11. Install the valve seals.
12. Install the springs, the retainers and the keepers in reverse order of removal.
Exhaust Side
13-18. [Repeat the same procedure you used for the intake side.]
19. Repeat steps 6 to 18 on the other cylinders. [What they mean is: move the crankshaft 180 degrees so that the next cylinder is at TDC. Then pressurize that cylinder with shop air and remove the intake and exhaust springs and seals, etc.]
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Here's an illustrated guide (for a different engine) that will give you a good idea of what is involved: ***How-To*** Install Valve Springs & Valve Stem Seals - Honda-Tech
I used this tool for removal and installation of the springs and keepers: ValveMaster valve keeper tool
It is probably a good idea to do a compression check or a leak-down test before you replace the valve stem seals. If you have bad compression or one or more leaking valves then you should attend to those problems. You should also be aware that you can have good compression, but still have frozen oil control rings. This turned out to be my situation. I had high oil consumption but good compression, so I replaced the valve stem seals. It didn't help with the oil burning however. When I tore down the engine I found that the oil control rings were shot. Some people have suggested that SeaFoam might be a possible cure for oil control ring problems.
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1. Turn the crankshaft so that the No. 1 & the No. 4 pistons are at top dead center (TDC).
2. Remove the cylinder head cover & the rocker arm assembly.
NOTE: When removing or installing the rocker arm assembly, do not remove the camshaft holder bolts. The bolts will keep the holders, springs and rocker arms on the shaft.
3. Remove the fuel injectors and the wire harness. [I didn't do this step when I replaced my valve stem seals.]
4-6. [Steps 4-6 refer to the factory recommended Snap-on valve spring compressor YA8845 with YA8845-2A 7/8" attachment. I won't list the steps here since you probably will be using a different valve spring compressor.]
Intake Side:
7. Insert an air adaptor into the spark plug hole. Pump air into the cylinder to keep the valve closed while compressing the springs and removing the valve keepers.
NOTE: Put shop towels over the oil passages to prevent the valve keepers from falling in to the cylinder head.
8. [more stuff here about the snap-on tool]
9. [Using your valve spring compressor] compress the valve spring and remove the keepers from the valve stem. Slowly release pressure on the spring.
10. Remove the valve seals.
11. Install the valve seals.
12. Install the springs, the retainers and the keepers in reverse order of removal.
Exhaust Side
13-18. [Repeat the same procedure you used for the intake side.]
19. Repeat steps 6 to 18 on the other cylinders. [What they mean is: move the crankshaft 180 degrees so that the next cylinder is at TDC. Then pressurize that cylinder with shop air and remove the intake and exhaust springs and seals, etc.]
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Here's an illustrated guide (for a different engine) that will give you a good idea of what is involved: ***How-To*** Install Valve Springs & Valve Stem Seals - Honda-Tech
I used this tool for removal and installation of the springs and keepers: ValveMaster valve keeper tool
It is probably a good idea to do a compression check or a leak-down test before you replace the valve stem seals. If you have bad compression or one or more leaking valves then you should attend to those problems. You should also be aware that you can have good compression, but still have frozen oil control rings. This turned out to be my situation. I had high oil consumption but good compression, so I replaced the valve stem seals. It didn't help with the oil burning however. When I tore down the engine I found that the oil control rings were shot. Some people have suggested that SeaFoam might be a possible cure for oil control ring problems.
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