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Discussion Starter #1
Hello!

I believe it's time to do the front brakes on my 2001 Odyssey. I only have about 11,500 miles, but my wife drives about 90% in the city. The trip to and from work is mostly through residential streets with LOTS of stop signs!


I thought it was a little too soon, but maybe the city driving, together with 4000+ pound Ody weight conspire to shorten the pad life...

On to the question:

1) Is this a straightforward replace the pads brake job?
2) Are any special tools necessary? (For instance, to remove the caliper or push in the piston?)

I'd like to do this job myself, if I could.
I've done it on my Mustang several times.


Thanks!!


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Nelson
2001 Odyssey LX
2001 Civic EX Sedan
1990 Mustang LX 5.0 Coupe
http://fiveoh.homestead.com/main.html
 

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Sorry, can't help you with the mechanical side of it but I would suggest that you install only genuine Honda brake pads. I've owned Honda's for years and have never been happy with anything but genuine Honda pads. I've tied several brands, even the premium “silent” pads, and they all make tons on noise compared to Honda pads.

My 2 cents.

Good Luck,

-John
 
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SoFlaOdyssey,

I think it is a straight forward job but your mileage no doubt varies....

Do yourself a big favor and buy a copy of the Helm service manual, no matter whether you will be working on your van or not. It is probably the best $70 accessory for your van.

-- Hoa
 

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I haven't done the Odyssey, since ours is relatively new. I hope the brakes last longer than you indicate though.

I was under the van for the first time this past weekend. I made a special effort to look at the front calipers. Seemed pretty standard on ours, two bolts holding the whole thing on (more than likely only have to remove one to change pads). Bleed valve on the back. I didn't take off the wheel, but it seems to be about like all other modern disc brake systems. Can't comment on rears on later models, I'm no drum brake fan.
 

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I would second on the getting the Honda brake pads. I once had a brake shop install some "lifetime" pads. They were noisy and warped the rotors. I would suggest ordering them from HandA or some equivalent to save some money. Also, don't forget to apply the grease to the shim to help with squeaking.

As far as doing them on the Ody, I haven't done them, but other Hondas are pretty standard. The only issue may be if you want to remove the rotor to have it turned (only if the pedal is vibrating), there are 2 screws that hold it on on some Hondas. You need an impact driver or just drill them out.

Good luck. Let us know how it goes so we can have some advice when time comes.
 

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Don't remove the rotor. Have it turned on the car. That's Honda's recommendation, even for new rotors. And experience tells me there's a reason for that.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
adam1991:

Do you think it's mandatory to have the rotors turned? The pedal doesn't vibrate, and the rotors do not seem to be grooved.

I haven' let the pads wear to where I hear the grinding noise. I just see that there isn't much pad left before that happens, and would like to conduct a preemptive strike!


I don't usually machine my rotors on my other vehicles unless necessary....pedal vibrating, grinding sound when pads are near death, etc.

Thanks!

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Nelson
2001 Odyssey LX
2001 Civic EX Sedan
1990 Mustang LX 5.0 Coupe
http://fiveoh.homestead.com/main.html
 

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I replaced the front pads at 60,000 miles and again at 120,000 miles on my 99EX. Very straight forward. You'll need a couple of box wrenches to loosen the caliper, and I used a set of channel locks to push the pistons back.

If there is no grooving of the rotors, I see no reason to have them turned. Mine have not yet been turned at 124,000 miles, and the van brakes just fine.

FWIW, when doing the last change at 120,000 miles, I decided to check the rear brake shoes. They still have over half of their remaining life on them by thickness measurement.
 

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Brakes

Had first brake job done on my '01 EX at 24,000 miles.
This was after two fully loaded trips to Florida, and my wifes daily stop sign drag racing around town. Service Tech a t dealer told me 15k was normal for the ODY. Rotors were fine.
 

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Just had my pads replaced by dealer at 53,000 miles. Charges $89 for front brake pads / fluid bleeding.

There was a lot of vibration after the job and after a normal "bedding" period. Had to have the rotors turned.

They said "Honda does not recommend turning the rotors off the car on a lathe". Cost me $200 to have them turned "on the vehicle". They work great but seemed excessive and it was the first I had heard of this.

Anyone comment on this practice? Rotors had more then 1/2 there life left or I would have replaced them (est. $400 from dealer).
 
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matteni said:

There was a lot of vibration after the job and after a normal "bedding" period. Had to have the rotors turned.

They said "Honda does not recommend turning the rotors off the car on a lathe". Cost me $200 to have them turned "on the vehicle". They work great but seemed excessive and it was the first I had heard of this.

Anyone comment on this practice? Rotors had more then 1/2 there life left or I would have replaced them (est. $400 from dealer).
If your pedal is vibrating, you definitely need to have your rotors turned or replaced. Yes, Honda recommends on-the-car turning (they won't even do it off the car). Although $200 seems high, that's about the going price. If you are mechanically inclined, it is cheaper to buy new ones and do it yourself. One question, does your dealer recommend turning new ones as well. I usually don't and haven't had any problems.
 

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If you change the rotors - they only recommend turning them if you retain the "old" pads and you notice any problems like I did.
 

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just had the front brakes on my ODY EX serviced by Honda yesterday. the odometer posted 36,386 miles and the front brakes were already at the minimum of 1.66mm. they replaced the brake pads and resurfaced the rotors. cost was $245.
 

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Internet prices for a set of 02 Honda Odyssey front rotors (2 ea) is $160 and $34 for a set of brake pads. So if you do the job yourself it would cost about $200 to replace the front rotors and pads. Less than the cost of turning and new pads at the dealer. It appears easy to do.

If you need to turn the rotors because of warping (pedal vibration) or scoring I would suggest that you would be better off replacing them. This is because the difference between the thickness of a new rotor (1.10 inches) and the minimium allowable (1.02 inches) is very small and turning the rotor may just encourage rotor warping in the future, even though the manual says to turn it.

As an earlier poster suggested, invest $70 in the Helms Manual, it is worth it.
 

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Did Brake job

Just hit 30K on the mileage. The brake were making noise. I purchased a set of pads from HandA. The helms manual says only turm rotor if not within specs. Rotor looked perfect. Only had to undo one bolt to change pads. Easiest brake job ever. I purchasded a c clamp for $4 at home depot to push the pistons back in cylinder. Had about 10% pad left upon removal. Job took less than 1 hour including jacking up the car and removing the wheels. If you can change a tire you can do this brake job. All rotors should be turned on the car. Otherwise you can very easily get an out of true rotor. ( Also an aside. Before I did the brake job the fluid looked a little low. Not low enough to add any. After the brake job the fluid was at max level. The retraction of the pistons pushed fluid back in the resovoir. This can be a good quick check to see how much pad is left.)
 

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Great information on the brakes!

If only I could go back in time 1 month and not have done it through the dealer:

Trip 1) Replace pads = $89
Trip 2) Turn rotors cause pulsating ($200)
Trip 3) Brakes squealing cause they had the clip installed wrong ($0 + aggravation)
Trip 4) Not squealing but brakes go almost to the floor - bad floating part in caliper from turning the rotors - no charge (scary thing is they "stole" the parts off a 2002 Ody) - ($0 + more aggravation)

To think I could have done this myself is a crying shame. I ordered the Helms manual today and it should pay for itself quickly.

BIG TIP: If you want something "cool" and makes bleeding brakes a 1 man breeze - check out http://www.speedbleeder.com

I have them on my NSX and the various performance clubs all but sponsor them. They are basically 1 way check valves for bleeding the brakes. Turn them 1/4 turn, get in and pump the brakes, close the valve - that's it! It has a great check valve so air can't get back in. I use it on the clutch as well in my NSX. I also use different color fluids between refills so I know when all the fluid is out (I use ATE Super Blue in the NSX and love it). Anyway - thought you all might like to know!
 
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Re: Did Brake job

rollie66 said:
( Also an aside. Before I did the brake job the fluid looked a little low. Not low enough to add any. After the brake job the fluid was at max level. The retraction of the pistons pushed fluid back in the resovoir. This can be a good quick check to see how much pad is left.)
I never top-off my brake reservoir for this very resaon. The lower level in the brake reservior is probably just the pads wearing down. If it is too low, that usually indicates a problem. The problem with topping-off the brake reservoir is that when you change the pads and push the caliper back to accomodate the thicker pads, brake fluid will spill out of the master cylinder.
 
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