Honda Odyssey Forum banner

1 - 20 of 43 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
I have 2015 Touring Elite and need to change rotors and pads.
Any recommended brands, or types? Should I consider possibly upgrading it to Performance parts, or should I purchase the original OE parts to replace them?
Should I try to re-surface the rotors?
Thanks for your feedback and suggestions / recommendations.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Well imo, 'performance' maybe overkill, unless you buy the those parts cheap and do it yourself. It will last longer.
I'd get OEM rotor and get cheaper pads for DIY. Driving ~30k miles/year I usually change them once a year right before the inspection. So far out of 100k, only changed rotor once when the car was start shaking when I brake @ ~60 mph.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
I had 2nd Generation Honda front rotors on our '16 EXL and they warped, I would not do OEM.

Search and ye' shall find, but in summary 1) don't resurface, you can get new high quality rotors for less many 2) which rotors, lots of options I went with Centric Premiums and 3) pads lots of options I went with Posi-Quiets but I might have gone with Akebono's for a bit more. I have Centric's and Akebono's on front and rear on my '07 Avalon and WOW what a difference; time consuming but easy DIY projects on both the EXL and Avalon and saved a ton of money.

We have 5k on the Centric/Posi's on the EXL now, not a blip of concern; besides the Posi's being pretty darned dirty!

Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
613 Posts
The OEM rotors are horrible and warp within a short period of time. Don't resurface the old ones; get a set of Centric rotors and Akebono pads as they seem to be a perfect combo together. RockAuto usually has very good pricing on them.
I replaced the OEM crap at 28,500 miles and now have just shy of 90,000 miles on my van, and they are still very smooth and stop well. The OEM rotors were supposed to be improved in around 2014 or 2015 I believe, but they are not good at all.
https://www.odyclub.com/threads/recommendation-on-brake-pads-rotors-and-hardware.330225/#post-2117857
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
I am in the camp that rotors come from iron blanks that originate from just a few factories, and various co's finish and brand to whatever brand a customer prefers to purchase, little/no difference with the end products. Akebono, btw, is an oem brake pad supplier to Honda and very likely the manufacturer of factory pads.

I have a pair of Beck Arnley rotors that arrived earlier this week from Rock Auto that I will be putting on this evening, they are identical to oem, have the little vent holes in the rotor hat just like factory (I suspect B/A is the OEM rotor supplier), this will be the second time doing it on the van which is now at 100K miles. Its ridiculous to be replacing rotors this frequently, but it takes a few minutes and costs a hundred bucks, I have bigger things to worry about about than rotor life.

Short of getting bigger/heavier rotors, the solution could be getting really aggressive pads, but then you run into those characteristics, such as street ability due to low temp, noise and shorter rotor life due to bite aggressiveness.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Per many many recommendations on this forum, I just replaced my 2017 Ody EXL with Centric front rotors and Akebono pads. What a difference! I purchased from Tire Rack for about $200 and my local shop put them on for $100. I have about 5,000 miles on them and part of that was a 2,000 mile road with a lot of rain. They performed and exceed my expectations vs the factory pads/rotors that came with the van.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Well imo, 'performance' maybe overkill, unless you buy the those parts cheap and do it yourself. It will last longer.
I'd get OEM rotor and get cheaper pads for DIY. Driving ~30k miles/year I usually change them once a year right before the inspection. So far out of 100k, only changed rotor once when the car was start shaking when I brake @ ~60 mph.
I am new to this forum what are the rules ? Thank you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,073 Posts
Here’s why you don’t buy cheap.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
481 Posts
Same here akebono + centric on 08 EX-L. Being working great. Bought it from Rock Auto
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,811 Posts
I am new to this forum what are the rules ? Thank you
There aren't any, it's the wild west! Just kidding, you can't advertise get in fights or be a a**hole. It really helps if your posts have something to do with the topic at hand. You are welcome to start a new thread if you don't find any old ones that seem to fit your question or comment. Unlike some other boards, folks around here are encouraged to post in existing threads. (not sure why that bothers folks so much on other internet boards?)

It really helps if you:
Put your location in your profile (it can be general)
Post enough information. Like: what year and model you have. How many miles on it.
If your question/comment is about a glitch or repair, do tell us what you have already done.
For some things we are going to ask about maintenance history.

But really, it's a forum about minivans, you are going to be sootin' the sh*t with the same guys and gals that are at the sports field or children's theatre program, not the bar or racetrack. (there may be overlap) ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Hello all,
thanks for all the recommendations and suggestions. I decided to try Centric + Akebono from Rock Auto. Prices were reasonable.. still waiting for the parts, but I'll update you guys after I change them.
thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Hi all,
I have 2015 Touring Elite and need to change rotors and pads.
Any recommended brands, or types? Should I consider possibly upgrading it to Performance parts, or should I purchase the original OE parts to replace them?
Should I try to re-surface the rotors?
Thanks for your feedback and suggestions / recommendations.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
I would go OEM...the rotors warp from driving the van like a sports car in the mountains or riding the brakes too hard. If your rotors are within spec them have them resurfaced If you can so that you can get more life out of them. That's what I did and it's been great from a cost savings standpoint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
236 Posts
Years ago, Consumer Reports tested brake pads. Their conclusion was that they were pretty much all the same, therefore, shop by cost. Now we have these "high performance" pads that cost a lot more than the regular pads. The Honda factory pads lasted me at least 100k on my 2000 Odyssey, and would have gone another 25%. The aftermarket pair (Wagner) that replaced them lasted about the same. What I will do and have done for years is to buy pads with shims and chamfers that are not the high performance pads, pads that may be just like the OEM pads. I couldn't have been happier with these parts.

I will turn or replace rotors when the pedal pulses. After they have been turned once, that's it. I do not turn them when changing pads just because they are rough - I just take my time and break the new pads in gently until the stopping power is normal. It has taken me less than 50 miles of easy use to accomplish this each time - maybe 15-20 miles on average.

When I put the rotors back on, I clean the contact surfaces, then try each rotor in all five positions on the hub, and check for minimal runout in each position. I have found the runout to be minimal in only one position. Under .002" is pretty good and you won't feel that on the pedal. I think .004" is the factory runout limit. Once pedal pulsing/vibration starts, it will get worse.

I had slotted rotors on a vehicle that came with them from the factory. Other models of that same vehicle came with non-slotted rotors. Side by side, the slotted rotors quickly made a lot of brake dust compared with the non-slotted rotors. I wouldn't buy slotted rotors if I had a choice. Your wheels will stay cleaner and the pads will last longer.

So - if you are going to race your Odyssey, consider buying performance brakes. My recommendation would be to buy standard brakes with OEM type materials if you just want to drive your car. When I have replaced rotors on foreign cars, sometimes I bought the Centrix brand from RockAuto for no other reason than price vs. brand recognition, and at other times I bought other brands, mostly domestic. I have been happy with all of them. I have come to expect 100k on a set of rotors and pads as a rule of thumb, before they need replacement. I don't grind to a stop. I try to plan ahead so I do not have to brake hard, so I am probably easier on brakes than some. Most of my mileage has been highway miles, so if yours is primarily city driving, you should expect different results.

Change your brake fluid as recommended - like every three years. I have rebuilt calipers at maybe nine or ten years, just "because". They're dirty, it takes a while, but it's not a big deal to do this. I have found the repair kits and parts as needed, for not much money. I haven't ever needed to hone calipers. I used to simply replace the wheel cylinders from drum brakes because new ones were inexpensive. I have never had a caliper leak, but it used to happen fairly frequently with drum brake wheel cylinders. Over the years, I have also replaced clutch and master cylinders, but not as often as wheel cylinders.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
I would go OEM...the rotors warp from driving the van like a sports car in the mountains or riding the brakes too hard. If your rotors are within spec them have them resurfaced If you can so that you can get more life out of them. That's what I did and it's been great from a cost savings standpoint.
So you would pay more to have warped OEM rotors resurfaced, than to buy high quality brand new rotors? Your choice, but that makes no sense to me whatsoever...

The OEM rotors are known to be an issue, that's why they were redesigned. And our '16 EXL had Gen2 rotors on the front (so the latest and greatest) and they were warped. Resurfacing was quoted at $70 per rotor at a local shop, one set of Centric Premiums at $59 each later; all recommended to me here on this forum I might add. ;)

The only thing I would do differently is install Akebono pads in place of the Posi-Quiets. The Akebono's are more expensive but man the Posi's are dirty-dirty!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Looking to do a replacement for brakes on the 2014. Any thoughts on a set of "Premium" Raybestos from Rock-Auto?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
I don’t frequent here often but it seem every time I do there’s bad info about brakes on our gen odyssey’s.
first rotors do not warp. They do pulse and there are two possible reasons. 1. Uneven pad deposits on the rotors from heavy brake application after a hard stop at a traffic light. Look through the wheel spokes and if you see an outline of the brake pad on the rotor this is your issue.
2. Lateral runout typically from a rotor not machined to a tight tolerance or debris between the inside of the rotor hat and the wheel bearing flange. Thi can and should be checked before and after part replacement to determine if clocking the rotor or shins are necessary.
The revised rotors are good quality and those that have issues are either 1 or 2 above. Granted if you live in very hilly areas like eastern sideof the Rockies and use brakes for long descents then stop and have to hold the pedal you might be out of luck. OE rotors and a pad with a COF rating of GG is the best combo. It’s been working for me for 4 years and 65k miles without even one shimmy.
 
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
Top