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Discussion Starter #21
Thanks for all the replies. I too used to think that rotors would "warp" but they're not actually warping. Just Google rotor warping myth. Lots of good info out there. My guess is that my wife made an emergency stop with hot brakes...causing an uneven deposit of pad material on the rotor. I'm hoping to sand down the rotor with garnet paper and clean off the pad residue and fix the issue. I'll report back in a few days and let you know if it worked
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Also honda vehicles have been doing this for as long as I have been driving (25 years). Don't know wtf it is about Honda. But driving habits do play a part I think. And my wife does tend to stop short alot...
 

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We have a 2018 Odyssey. At about 17k miles the front brakes started vibrating very severely. That was about 4 months ago. Dealer wanted to charge for new rotors and brakes so I did it myself. I went with centric premium rotors and wearever platinum pads (only pads I could find at the time).
So now here we are a few months later and the vibration is back.
WTF! I don't want to buy new rotors and it seems like no one around here resurfarces them. I've heard of people installing semi metallic pads might address the issue. Anyone heard of that? Any other ideas?
It’s not pads and it’s not rotors; it’s “hot stops”. It’s how you drive when the road is not perfectly flat. Various vehicles are more or less vulnerable to warping, but all very hot rotors will warp when dead stopped between a set of any kind of pads for more than a few seconds. It’s a simple matter of physics. 70% of the red hot rotor is in the air cooling at one rate, while about 30% is trapped insulated from the air between the pads cooling and contracting at another rate. A very expensive slotted rotor may lessen the effect, but the expense is completely unnecessary. Rotors are cast iron for a reason: they expand and contract less under heat changes. Different cooling rates in one piece of hot metal can creat tremendous forces which cause the metal to warp. “Turning, or cutting away enough metal to make them completely flat again simply makes them thinner and more vulnerable to warping. Making friends and family aware of the issue, I have the buy almost the cheapest rotors for about $20 each, which usually costs less than turning the old ones. To prevent hot stop warping, after you come to a stop after coming downhill or even having to use your brakes a lot, simply give a car length between your car and the car in front of you, and after stopping, let your car creep forward very slowly so the area under the pads moves around the hot rotor. You can learn to do this automatically and gauge the rate of creep for maximum effect for the duration of the stop. If very, very hot, then stop 2 car lengths back. Years ago I priced a pair of front rotors for my Ford van and they wanted over $100 each. You can buy economical and Google how to change them. Usually so simple. Only one trick: some cars use a single very large Phillips head short screw to hold the rotor to the hub. There is a $13 impact driver that you can use a heavy hammer on to do and undo this screw. I have saved mySelf and my family so many thousands of dollars with this hot stop issue. No more warped rotors. They should last 100k plus for the front before they become too thin to be legal. Never let anyone turn them. The new pad wears in and makes them almost perfectly smooth again after a while and I have never seen uneven braking even though they look rough with lines and valleys on them. Try it. Turning costs and just shortens the life of the rotor drastically. If you can, you should do your own pad changes. It will blow your mind to find out what you are paying $250 for them to do. Just be safe and look at a number of u tubes or have someone who knows work with you. After tire off, only one or 2 small bolts per wheel, and 4 or 5 items to inspect, clean and lubricate for a safe, high quality job. I taught all my daughters to help me in high school so they could do their own and their friend’s for extra money for college. A box of nitrile gloves is the only “must have for them.
 

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Thanks for all the replies. I too used to think that rotors would "warp" but they're not actually warping. Just Google rotor warping myth. Lots of good info out there. My guess is that my wife made an emergency stop with hot brakes...causing an uneven deposit of pad material on the rotor. I'm hoping to sand down the rotor with garnet paper and clean off the pad residue and fix the issue. I'll report back in a few days and let you know if it worked
Sorry, but the rotor does actually “warp” under uneven cooling and it actually twists out of shape. With the ire off you can turn the rotor and with a fixed point see it moving in and out. That is what makes the pedal vibrate. Good news. Read my contribution on warped brakes. You never have to have a warped rotor again.
 

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caution :
All vibrations and shaking are from faulty/ bad transmission
Honda will tell you all kind of excuses or BS like
Bad Tires rotors discs alignment etc
Nothing is true
There are 2 or 3 class actions against Honda
and faulty Transmissions
Good luck
wrong info


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I don't understand what kind of braking conditions would get rotors red hot. If prolonged braking is needed, you should either be going slower, or down shifting, which is what folks should be doing if extended braking is necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Sorry, but the rotor does actually “warp” under uneven cooling and it actually twists out of shape. With the ire off you can turn the rotor and with a fixed point see it moving in and out. That is what makes the pedal vibrate. Good news. Read my contribution on warped brakes. You never have to have a warped rotor again.
What I should have said is that generally rotors don't warp. More likely it's uneven pad deposits on the surface or uneven rotor wear. Warping rotors from heat is incredibly difficult. If I were to measure my rotors with a dial indicator I'm confident they wouldn't be truly warped. Take a look at the link below or Google warped rotor myths.

[/URL]
 

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Discussion Starter #28
What I should have said is that generally rotors don't warp. More likely it's uneven pad deposits on the surface or uneven rotor wear. Warping rotors from heat is incredibly difficult. If I were to measure my rotors with a dial indicator I'm confident they wouldn't be truly warped. Take a look at the link below or Google warped rotor myths.
 

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After putting up with shuddering and generally overall weak brakes for 12 yrs on a '99 Ody and a few yrs on an '05, when my new to me '07 needed brakes I pulled out all the stops 'pun intended' and went with drilled and slotted rotors with EBC Yellowstuff pads. Not cheap, but %200 better stopping power, especially on long downhill stops which were previously notorious for shuddering vibrating stops.
Fair warning. NOT low dust! But it's worth it for the safety of knowing that you can stop in a emergency.

Nearly 2yrs and 30000 miles later with no shuddering brakes. I WILL BE replacing these with another set of the same.
 

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We have a 2018 Odyssey. At about 17k miles the front brakes started vibrating very severely. That was about 4 months ago. Dealer wanted to charge for new rotors and brakes so I did it myself. I went with centric premium rotors and wearever platinum pads (only pads I could find at the time).
So now here we are a few months later and the vibration is back.
WTF! I don't want to buy new rotors and it seems like no one around here resurfarces them. I've heard of people installing semi metallic pads might address the issue. Anyone heard of that? Any other ideas?
See my comment below on hot stops.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
After putting up with shuddering and generally overall weak brakes for 12 yrs on a '99 Ody and a few yrs on an '05, when my new to me '07 needed brakes I pulled out all the stops 'pun intended' and went with drilled and slotted rotors with EBC Yellowstuff pads. Not cheap, but %200 better stopping power, especially on long downhill stops which were previously notorious for shuddering vibrating stops.
Fair warning. NOT low dust! But it's worth it for the safety of knowing that you can stop in a emergency.

Nearly 2yrs and 30000 miles later with no shuddering brakes. I WILL BE replacing these with another set of the same.
Thanks. I'll check these out the next time I change pads. For now I'm going to try scuffing up the rotors with garnet sandpaper and see if that does the trick. Can't hurt for $5.
I do like Honda's, and have owned 5 of them (12 if you include motorcycles and ATVs) and EVERY single car/truck has had this issue. In the past I've had great results with akebono pads and brembo (not cross drilled or slotted) rotors. Just couldn't find them for the Odyssey.
 

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CORRECTION: I have the EBC USR slotted rotors on this van. I was remembering the dimpled and slotted rotors I put on my '08 Volve S60 with the Yellowstuff pads, that convinced me to try them on the Ody. Also, this was just the front brakes only too.
 

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I put on StopTech slotted rotors and EBC Green Stuff pads on the front over two years ago, and braking has been quiet, vibration free, and effortless since (after repeated issues with the stock setup on my 2012 EX). However, those pads are dusty, but not hard to wash off the wheels with regular soap. I really don't know how much is the pad and how much is the heat escape from the slots, but even family members with particularly bad driving habits can't mess it up now.
 

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What I should have said is that generally rotors don't warp. More likely it's uneven pad deposits on the surface or uneven rotor wear. Warping rotors from heat is incredibly difficult. If I were to measure my rotors with a dial indicator I'm confident they wouldn't be truly warped. Take a look at the link below or Google warped rotor myths.

[/URL]
^ What he said ^

Those who say that rotors get bent due to heat and warp often are wrong. You can’t resurface warped rotors without loosing significant amount of metal. It almost always just the brake pad material being transferred to rotors as the issue


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Need to check your wheel balance, tie rods and ball joints. There is no reason brakes should go back that quickly.
Our 2014 Odyssey did the same thing at around 15k - 17k miles; and at 27,000 miles, the van hasn't been driven for months, because the front end feels like it will shake/rattle and fall apart when applying brakes on the freeway. The brakes have been shot since we bought the van from Honda dealership at 7,000 miles. Most of our friends at our church have odysseys and they all have had brakes replaced at around 15,000 - 20,000 miles. We are not alone - we don't know of any families or friends that haven't had to replace brakes after 1-2 years of ownership on their Odysseys either. Brand new replacement Honda OEM brakes from the Honda dealership all do the same thing - even with "new and improved top hat designs" and all these other silly marketing slogans of a "greatly new and improved B version."

These OEM Honda brakes are crap, period.

From my understanding, in my experience, these premature braking failures are due to bad design/engineering/quality, however, there are some senior members on this forum that swear up and down and point to some type of "bedding" that wasn't done properly. Apparently, you are supposed to perform some "brake bedding procedure" which involves superheating the brakes multiple times on the highway (going from highway speeds down to a stop, and repeating over and over until you start smoking your brakes) and if you don't perform this procedure, then the premature failures will happen. I know it's bizarre, and although we have many Ford F150's at work that routinely drive past 150,000+ miles on the original Motorcraft brakes (I'm in charge of the fleet maintenance), these Hondas must have some type of brake bedding procedure or you will buy new brakes every 15k - 20k of miles.

Yeah, terrible quality.

What is interesting however, is that I've never heard of brake bedding procedures, and I've never done it, and I've never had this issue with any vehicle(s) we've ever owned since I was born into this world. I'm talking about hundreds of vehicles over the course of my life at work and in personal usage - I've never done this, nor heard of it, yet, this is supposed to have been done on these Hondas or you are S.O.L and screwed because you've failed to perform this procedure that hardly anyone's ever heard of.
 

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Here is my experience: My 2007 Entourage had exactly the same problem. I read somewhere that these heavy minivans should have been built with larger rotors to take the high heat generated from slowing them down on long hills. Vented/slotted/crossdrilled rotors and ceramic pads helped me go about 30,000-40,000 miles between changes. When I bought a 2010 Odyssey, I had the same problem but the Akebono-price point rotors didn't last long before horrible shuddering began. This time I decided to spend more, and went with Brembo, and so far, so good. If I get warping before another 30,000, I will try Wilwood (if they make rotors for Hondas) or the new OEM Hondas that were mentioned here. Good luck to us all.
 

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I've heard only good things about the centric rotors...so I'm thinking it's the wearever platinum pads that are the issue.
I've personally used Centric rotors on Honda's and BMW's in the past, all with excellent results. All were sourced from tirerack.com.
This is not to say that you couldn't have encountered a bad batch of rotors, but that's significantly less likely than having an uneven pad deposit applied onto them from the funky pad material.

I've had good luck with OEM Honda brake pads for Odyssey applications - they are relatively inexpensive, and work well both during repeated stops (hot) and and first thing out of the driveway in the dead of the winter (freezing cold).
I would recommend getting and installing a set of OEM pads, after scrubbing the rotor surface area (on both sides!) with some sand paper. Then re-bed the pads, and see if your shaking-under-braking goes away.

The other possibility is that you got either rust of some other debris stuck either on the inside of the rotors vent planes, or have rust build-up on the perimeter. That would be more likely in northern than southern climates, but I've had that happen once (rust) on one of my fun cars that wasn't driven regularly.

HTH,
a
 

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Yup got caught up in the updated hat design craze, but they still ended up warped. Aftermarket is the way to go, or Honda just needs to spec out better brakes instead of cheaping out.
 

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I went with Frozen Rotors (Vented Hat) and Porterfield R4S pads on my 2011. No bed in procedure just normal driving around town and avoided sudden stops for 250 miles (Frozen Rotors procedure). No problems with around 40k on them now. The pads put off lots of dust. I did bleed the system too and went with Dot 4 fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
So I just wanted to post an update. It turns out the rotors were not physically warped. I initially took the rotors off and sanded the Sh*t out of them by hand with sandpaper. I put them back on the van and initially everything felt good and I was pretty happy but at higher speeds I still noticed the shudder. I wish I had spent more time sanding or maybe done it with an angle grinder or something. The shudder continued to get worse so I went out and bought some cheap semi-metallic pads on Amazon (brand is R1 Concepts). After about a week of driving the vibration was gone.
 
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