[james9793]

Hello All,

I was wondering if anyone has used AMSOIL in any of their vehicles? With my limited research on it, it seems to be pretty amazing stuff. One claim was 4 mpg more than conventional oil in a Toyota Corrolla. Also, I'm a conventional Castrol user, and I am thinking about going synthetic Castol. Any thoughts?

Delivery of 2001 White EX on 5/2/2001. Can't wait!

 

[hip]

Originally posted by james9793:
I'm a conventional Castrol user, and I am thinking about going synthetic Castol. Any thoughts?

I'd stick with conventional Castol, if heard so many arguments for and against synthetic oils its become ridiculous. The claims are great, reality is always different. Bottom line, unless car requires the synthetic, you won't ever realize any payback if you change it according to car manufacturers requirments, not enough ROI. The best and most cost effective thing you can do for any vehicle is use a good quality oil (you're doing that) and change it regularly. Why waste money on synthetic? Save your money for an Ody toy you can enjoy.

 

[huntlarry]

I say do your own oil analysis. Buy a test kit ($15-20), sample your oil at 3K intervals and see when the sampling company suggest an oil change. ALWAYS change the filter at HONDA recommended intervals (7500). Many over-the-road trucking companies use this method with their trucks. Synthetic oil blows away the "dino" oil in these test. Again, do you OWN test and compare cost.

 

[jninan2k2]

You can use whatever you want...but just for insider info...honda's oil is formulated by mobil1

 

[BenjiBoy168]

You can use whatever you want...but just for insider info...honda's oil is formulated by mobil1

Wow this is the most extreme case of dead thread revival I've ever seen

Honda's oil is not by Mobil1. Honda's oil is by ExxonMobil...

 

[Sloppy]

Bottom line is synthetics out perform conventional in every way. Remember that synthetic oils can be run over twice that of conventional oils. So if you're put off by the cost of synthetics, just remember that you only need to change your oil and filter at half the time.

You do typically get a slight increase in gas mileage and you do get better protection (corrosion, foaming, sludge, detergent, film strength, oxidation...).

When you take the total costs into account, synthetics are the cheaper way to go.

If you want extra piece of mind, take an oil sample at 5000 miles and send it in for analysis. They'll tell you EXACTLY when it's time to change the oil using data, not opinions or savy marketing!

While you can argue which synthetics are better, you'll never win an argument that conventional oils can outpeform synthetics!

Switch to synthetics - the sooner the better.

 

[BenjiBoy168]

Bottom line is synthetics out perform conventional in every way. Remember that synthetic oils can be run over twice that of conventional oils. So if you're put off by the cost of synthetics, just remember that you only need to change your oil and filter at half the time.

You do typically get a slight increase in gas mileage and you do get better protection (corrosion, foaming, sludge, detergent, film strength, oxidation...).

When you take the total costs into account, synthetics are the cheaper way to go.

If you want extra piece of mind, take an oil sample at 5000 miles and send it in for analysis. They'll tell you EXACTLY when it's time to change the oil using data, not opinions or savy marketing!

While you can argue which synthetics are better, you'll never win an argument that conventional oils can outpeform synthetics!

Switch to synthetics - the sooner the better.

And don't forget that synthetics also typically cost 3-6x what regular motor oils cost MotorCraft Synthetic Blend (a highly regarded dino blend) $2/qt...Mobil1 $6. And not to mention that Mobil1 recently went away from PAO GpIV oils to GpIII oils like everybody else.

Oh and I've seen motors with many hundreds of thousands of miles, run regular motor oil from the very beginning. Are you planning to keep your car til 319K miles like a 93 Accord I know of? Is your tranny going to last that long? Then what makes synthetic worth it??

I'm not arguing synthetics are "better" but I'm arguing you're never going to see it. The J35 does not sludge, does not have forced induction, and has no problems. It does not benefit that much from synthetics.

 

[0dyfamily]

Are you planning to keep your car til 319K miles like a 93 Accord I know of?

Not to drift, but only 136k on my '93 Accord, zero oil consumption, near-perfect compression (see sig) with perfectly running motor...should've kept it, should've kept it, should've kept it.... :dammit:

...and we did it on dino oil, too...

v/r, OF

 

[ccs2k2ody]

I'm done with Mobil1 and XOM with the bait and switch tactics. After I'm done with my current stash of Mobil and Castrol, the next OC will be with whatever is on sale. I am done with paying for marketing campains when I can get the same protection with a quality dino that may be on sale.

 

[ncelk]

Amsoil 5w20 in ours since the first oil change.

I am currently at 26k on it. The Amsoil has performed very well, BUT I would not expect to see a 4mpg improvement by using it.

I use Amsoil in the van, Mobil 1 in the Pilot and Mazda.

Oil analysis shows great for Mobil 1 and Amsoil. Practically, I have not seen a difference in how they perform.

 

[Sloppy]

Run a conventional oil with an oil analysis and then a synthetic with an oil analysis. Then look at the results of when you can change it... then you can make a decision based on your driving habits (and not from the "oil rumor club").

I'd rather spend time driving the car rather than worrying about when to change oil. So I use synthetics as I know that I can go over double the life of conventional oil. Better engine protection, better performance, with less oil changes. You will NEVER get better protection from a quality conventional oil than from a quality synthetic. So it's a win-win for me!

If you're not going to capitalize on the advantages of synthetics then it isn't worth it. But for me, it's WELL worth it in terms of time, cost and peace of mind.

Try it and see if it works for you. If it doesn't, then just switch back to conventional oils. I was AMAZED by how much better the viscocity of synthetics held up against conventional oil.

 

[BenjiBoy168]

But for me, it's WELL worth it in terms of time, cost and peace of mind.

I think you missed the part in my post about cost...

And the part where I said there is no doubt synthetics "perform better"...

Not to drift, but only 136k on my '93 Accord, zero oil consumption, near-perfect compression (see sig) with perfectly running motor...should've kept it, should've kept it, should've kept it.... :dammit:

...and we did it on dino oil, too...

v/r, OF

Argh...I'm on the same boat with my 99 Accord. Still love that car, miss driving stick really badly. When I got my compression test done it was showing 195 200 185 191. After 145K, car didn't skip a beat. In fact, with my 3000 mile dino oil changes the motor got quieter in the time I owned it, and the oil came out cleaner each time. That's compared to my dads 97 Camry, which started burning copious amounts of oil after the Mobil 1 went in.

 

[wild willy]

I've used Castrol regular oil in every car I have owned with out problems...........

 

[Sloppy]

And I guess you missed the post about "be run over twice that of conventional oils" or "over double the life of"...

There's no point in arguing over opinions folks! Let's deal with fact - quality synthetics outperform quality conventional oils. If you change your oil too frequently then it may not make sense to pay for quality oils no matter the type!!!

But let's make this VERY simple -- run your conventional oil and take an oil sample to see when to change. Then do the EXACT same with a synthetic oil. Compare the two results and make a decision based on your own driving conditions. See how simple that was! This way you'll save money, your time and help the environment!

But if you enjoy doing oil changes, then please buy the cheapest oil you can find and knock yourself out.

The "double the conventional oil" just refers to a starting point. Let's end this pain and just take a sample instead of joining the "oil rumor club".

 

[3M+J]

I've used Castrol regular oil in every car I have owned with out problems...........

Is that 'cause your wife owns the van?

 

[wild willy]

Is that 'cause your wife owns the van?

You lost me

 

[egads]

But would any of this make a difference in the long run? That is the real question. I've had a couple of cars (one Honda, one Mazda) with well over 200k, and never payed any attention to the brand of oil. The Mazda would rat tat tat if the wrong weight was used (it had to be 5w even over 200k) but the brand or synthetic did not matter in either case. Neither had any engine issues. At this point manufacturers seem to know how to make engines. Transmissions well.......

 

[Zwolfe]

I tend to use synthetics because I'm never dead-on oil changing.

Now back in the day when I did 3k changes religiously I always used regular ol' Valvoline and never any problems.

For instance, the last interval on the 95 EX Odyssey, it was driven 9K miles before an oil change.

And the wife usually drives it 78MPH each way to work, 80 miles each day. So it's not like she's particularly easy on it. I do not drive that fast, all the time.

I've got to the point where I just change the oil, filter & transmission fluid all at the same time while I'm under there already anyway.

Overkill on the transmission fluid, but the transmission sure loves it. Always silky, beautifully smooth. I don't use ATF-Z1, either. I never use ATF-Z1, I have ancient chinese sekrits (Kendall, baby!).

 

[ccs2k2ody]

And the wife usually drives it 78MPH each way to work, 80 miles each day. So it's not like she's particularly easy on it. I do not drive that fast, all the time.

She isn't particularly hard on it either. Highway miles are a lot easier on oil than lots of short trips or stop and go.

 

[Zwolfe]

She isn't particularly hard on it either. Highway miles are a lot easier on oil than lots of short trips or stop and go.

Yea I know stop n' go is harder. But it would be a lot easier on the engine if she was going 70. From 65 up it takes about double the R's each MPH than from 1 to 65.

It's a 140hp 2.2L 4cyl, espeically with going through all of the hills in West Virginia the engine can get pretty wound up to sustain that 78MPH.