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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Honda large vehicles often shared complaints of mushy brakes, pulsating brakes, or warped brakes over the last decade or so. Many of those result from the OEM brake system's inability to manage thermal loads for many users. Upgrading to performance brake pads and matching rotors solve that issue. However, for some obsessed folks like me, bigger and better braking is always an infatuation. After about a year's worth of research and test fits, I am happy to report that there is a rather straight forward option for the G5 Odyssey, along with its current generation Pilot, Passport and Ridgeline cousins.

I have accumulated approximately 2600 miles on the van since the install about 3 weeks ago. Took a road trip to South Carolina and then to Fort Lauderdale, FL over the holidays. I painted the calipers using VHT caliper paint and clear coat as I did not want the red calipers to stand out. In the attempts to take it to bare metal, I made many mistakes and it resulted in very poor caliper paint quality. - please don't judge.

Disclaimer: Anytime someone modifies or makes repair to their vehicle, they assume the risk of voiding their vehicle's mfgr's warranty and possibly damaging the vehicle or themselves if proper care is not taken. By following these suggestions, you are at your own risk as I do not assume responsibility of your install or safety.

Difficulty: Intermediate
Time: 4.5 hours (using a post lift). 6 hours if using jack stands and ground.


Parts Needed

  • Brake Caliper mounting bolt - M12-1.25 x 30mm class 10.9 bolt (M12-1.25 x 30mm DIN 961 Class 10.9 Zinc Finish Hex Cap Screw | Fastenal) – Qty 4
  • Brake Calipers – Front pair (NuGeon 97R00867B & 97R00867A OR OEM 58190-2MA10 and 58180-2MA10)
  • Brake Fluid – 600F or similar
  • Brake hardware kit – Qty 1 (Centric 117.51019 or equivalent)
  • Brake hose – Hyundai front Left and Right – Centric 15051088 and 15051087
  • Brake hose banjo bolt washer – Qty 4 (Honda #46472-568-000)
  • Brake Hose/caliper bolt – Hyundai OEM# 58726-1G000 or equivalent
  • Brake Pads – front kit - Stoptech 308.10010 or equivalent
  • Brake Rotor – Front pair ( Centric 127.40075R and 127.40075L or equivalent)
  • Brake Pads Rear (PowerStop Z26-1698)
  • Brake Rotors Rear (PowerStop Evo kit JBR1756XPR)
  • Caliper to knuckle bushing - Uxcell 14mmx12mmx15mm Self-lubricating Oilless Bearing Sleeve Composite Bushings – Qty 4 (to compensate for OEM 14mm to the Hyundai’s 12mm bolt diameter)
  • Stainless Steel brake rotor set screws

Tools needed
  • 10mm brake line wrench (flare nut wrench)
  • 3/8” and ½” drive ratchets
  • Anti-Seize lubricant (Permatex 80078 or equivalent)
  • Assorted sockets 10mm to 19mm
  • Assorted extensions
  • Assorted torx bits
  • Brake bleeder kit (OEMTOOLS 25036) for one-person operation
  • Brake caliper hangers or equivalent
  • Brake parts cleaner
  • Brake parts lubricant (Permatex 24125 or similar)
  • Breaker bar
  • Diagonal pliers
  • Disc Brake pad spreader (like an ATP Disc Brake pad tool)
  • Fluid extractor pump – rated for transmission and brake fluid (Aleko OEXP02 or similar)
  • Small hammer
  • Liquid penetrant – WD40 or equivalent
  • Metal shears
  • Oil drain pan (like a HyperTough 7QDP-19-BLK)
  • Pry bar – 8in or equivalent
  • Screw driver – flat head (medium/heavy duty)
  • Shop rags
  • T-47 Torx bit – 3/8” drive
  • Torque wrench
  • Thread sealant - Loctite Blue
  • Wire brush – steel bristles
  • Zip Ties – 75LBF rated 8in zip ties

If rebuilding the caliper, you need the following or its equivalent.
  • Brake bleeder – Qty 4 (RAYBESTOS S22163)
  • Brake caliper piston repair kit - Qty 2 (Centric 143.34032)
    • There are many videos on YouTube on rebuilding calipers. Follow the process there to change out the seals

My Parts Cost (for front and rear - Total $660 approx)
  • Brake Bleeder screws - $4.55
  • Brake Caliper Bolts - $5.20
  • Brake Caliper Pistons - $9.35
  • Brake Calipers - $150 for front pair. (Salvage yard in 2017)
  • Brake fluid (StopTech 600F) - $16.15
  • Brake hardware kit (Centric 117.51019) - $9.81
  • Brake hose (front kit) - $34.42
  • Brake pads Front (Centric 105.10010) - $43.56
  • Brake Pads Rear (PowerStop Z26-1698) - $46.79
  • Brake Rotors Front ( StopTech 127.40069R & 127.40069L) - $244.98
  • Brake Rotors Rear (PowerStop Evo kit JBR1756XPR) - $86.79
  • Caliper Rebuild Kit - $8.72


NOTES (must read first)
  • OEM wheels DO NOT clear the calipers as they are much larger than OEM calipers. Must use aftermarket wheels with a minimum spoke-to-caliper clearance of 2mm. I run MB Wheels - Crux 18 x 8.5 +42mm offset. These wheels clear the 355mm Rotora Big Brake kit on my G1 Ridgeline as well as my G5 Odyssey.
  • I DO NOT recommend using wheel spacers of any sort
  • DO NOT USE the copper washers for the banjo bolt. Use the OEM Honda ones from the parts list above
  • DO NOT USE basic brake pad and rotors with the Brembo caliper modification. Must use matched high-performance rotors and pads
  • RECOMMEND upgrading the rear brake rotor and pads to high performance units to balance the front
  • Using high temp brake fluid is a must to cope with higher heat. It will be easy to boil the OEM Honda fluid in this setup
  • 500ml of brake fluid is more than adequate to complete bleeding of all four calipers
  • Front brake rotors I used are NOT for the G5 Odyssey, but for the G1 Honda Ridgeline. The physical rotor size is the same between both vehicles, but I recommend using the G5 appropriate rotors from the parts list above.
  • Use only Class 10 (10.9) caliper bolts. DO NOT USE class 8 (8.8) from the local auto parts/hardware stores. In the M12-1.25 configuration, zinc plated Class 8.8 has a max torque limit of 70 lb-ft (approx.) and the Class 10.9 has a max limit of 99 lb-ft. The caliper bolt needs to be torqued down to 75.9 lb-ft and using a class 8.8 will place the bolts beyond their max working limits.
  • If the caliper is purchased from a salvage yard, I recommend rebuilding the caliper
  • If you are rebuilding the caliper you need to use extreme care as to not scar or damage the caliper pistons. These 42mm pistons are on backorder and I ordered the last 2 remaining units from Centric (mfg 07/15) between 4 different online retailers who listed as available.
  • Having access to a post lift saves about 1 to 1.5-hrs
  • Clean and dry new brake rotors according to manufacturer recommendations
  • If the brake rotor set screw breaks, drill out the broken piece and chase the threads with a tap.
  • Hyundai Gen R-spec front calipers are trailing, while the G5 Odyssey is leading. Due to same size caliper pistons in each caliper, you will use the DR side caliper on the Passenger side of the Odyssey. PAX side Brembo caliper will be installed on the driver side on the Odyssey – Bleed screws will be pointed up.
  • Use the oil drain pan to catch the brake fluid that would spill from each front corner when swapping brake lines
  • Using the Genesis R-spec flex brake lines is not required, but recommended. If using the OEM Odyssey hose, ensure that you use the Odyssey banjo bolt with new washers.
  • Use a fluid extractor pump to remove all the old brake fluid from the master cylinder and top off the reservoir with new brake fluid.
  • Always keep an eye on the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir and never let it go empty. If it does, then the master cylinder needs to be bench bled separately and reinstalled in the vehicle before continuing.
  • High performance brake rotors are usually directional. Ensure you install the rotors on the correct side.


Front Brakes
  • Ensure vehicle is secure on the lift or on jack stands
  • Spray liquid penetrant on the flare nuts and let it soak

Caliper install
  • Remove the brake hose retaining bolt located on the strut
  • Remove caliper by removing the two caliper hanger bolts
  • Secure the caliper using a caliper hanger
  • Remove the front brake rotor and clean the rotor mating surface with the wire brush
  • Remove 1” of metal from the top leading edge of the dust shield.
  • Apply anti-seize on the hub (rotor mating surface) and secure the correct rotor to the hub using the stainless-steel set screw (do not use old ones)
  • Install the Genesis brake hose to the Brembo calipers, using the banjo bolt washer and torqueing the bolt to 21.7 lb-ft. NOTE: the hook portion that goes into the caliper needs to be in and the banjo should be flush against the caliper, before it is torqued.
  • Slide the Uxcell bushing onto the M12-1.25 bolt and apply Blue Loctite to the exposed threads.
  • Install the Brembo caliper (bleeder facing up) to the Odyssey knuckle using the bolts and torque them both to 75.9 lb-ft. (NOTE: apply only a small amount of Loctite and do not let the liquid dry. Install and torque promptly)
  • Apply brake lubricant on the caliper pistons
  • Install the brake pads and secure them using the brake hardware kit (image below)
  • Repeat the same for the other side

Connecting front brake lines to the Odyssey Hard lines
  • Using the flat head screwdriver, remove the retaining clip and ensure the hose is dislodged and can freely move up and down.
  • Remove the OEM flare nut from the OEM flex hose using the 10mm flare-nut wrench and remove the OEM caliper and hose out of the way.
  • Quickly hang the Brembo caliper and install the flex hose to the OEM hardline and tighten the flare-nut to the hose. Tighten to 12.3 lb-ft.
  • Reinstall the retaining clip and ensure the hose is secure and not twisted (image below).
  • Secure the flex line to the strut by using two zip ties to secure it to the mount (as pictured below). NOTE: ensure that there is enough slack in the hose between the caliper and the strut under full turns and that the hose is not strained or pinched under full steering lock (like image below).
  • Repeat the same for the other side.
  • Use brake parts cleaner to clean any brake fluid residue on parts.
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Rear Brake pads and rotor change
  • Use the appropriate Torx bit and remove the electronic actuator from the caliper body (picture below) and set it aside (ensuring it does not fall down)
  • Remove the caliper from the caliper bracket and hang the caliper using the caliper hanger
  • Remove the pads and the caliper bracket by removing the two caliper bolts
  • Remove the brake rotor and clean the hub’s mating surface and apply some anti-seize
  • Reinstall the new brake rotor and secure it with the stainless steel set screw
  • Inspect the rubber boots and the guide pin. Remove the pins, clean them and apply a coat of brake lubricant and insert it back into the boot, ensuring there are no air pockets within the boot.
  • Remove and discard the old brake pad clips from the caliper bracket and clean the bracket using the wire brush.
  • Remove the debris, clean the areas with brake parts cleaner and apply a coat of brake parts lubricant
  • Install new brake hardware clips to the caliper bracket, install it to the knuckle and tighten the caliper bolts to 80 ft lbs and install the pads to the caliper bracket. Use Blue Loctite on the bolt prior to installation. (image below)
  • Insert the T-47 bit into the rear of the caliper and turn the bit clockwise (when looking at the caliper from the rear) till it comes to lock. Do not place too much force in turning it past that point. (image below)
  • Place the brake spreader tool into the caliper and depress the caliper piston, ensuring not to damage the piston boot (image below)
  • Clean the caliper piston surface and carrier and apply a think coat of brake lubricant over them
  • Install the caliper over the pads and tighten the bolts to 26 lb-ft.
  • Install the electronic actuator over the caliper, ensuring the splines line up and clock the actuator to line up and secure the bolts. Use Blue Loctite prior to securing the bolt.
  • Repeat it on the other side.
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Bleeding the brakes
  • Bleeding sequence is as follows. Though it seems unconventional, this is the sequence advised in the service manual
#1 Front Driver Side​
#2 Front Passenger Side​
#3 Rear Passenger side​
#4 Rear Driver side.​

  • When bleeding the Brembo calipers, start from the inner bleed valve and then move the outer bleed valve.
  • Bleed the fluid till the fluid is clear, ensuring proper amount of fluid is left in the master cylinder reservoir
  • I used the two person method, but using the one-person-bleed-kit would also suffice
  • Top off the fluid to the max line, check for leaks, clean up, install the wheels and take it for a slow speed test drive
  • Recheck for leaks and rectify as needed.

Bedding the brakes
  • This is a very critical step and you MUST follow the brake pad mfgr’s recommendation of the bedding process.
  • Now you can be satisfied with firm pedal feel and confident braking. Plus, it looks cool.
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This is a beauty of a post. Nice work!
Also, didn’t like your factory 19”?
 

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This is quite a task, obviously you were bored.

At most, I would have done steel braided lines, new pads and rotors, and good fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This is a beauty of a post. Nice work!
Also, didn’t like your factory 19”?
Thank you. Late Summer of 2020, my wife decided to curb the front passenger wheel and bust the tire in the process. Though the van was not even 2 years old but I had almost 55K miles on it and had to switch to new tires in another 10K, which would have been in another 5 months. I decided to go down in size so she wont curb any more wheels. However, she was crafty and ended up curbing the new wheels in few months (the curbed wheel is in the picture in my above post).

I wanted to do the Brembo project on my Ridgeline, but opted to keep it for the Odyssey and ended up getting a Rotora BBK for my truck. The picture of the truck below is before it was lowered and the second picture is during my install of the KWs, but shows the rear brake caliper.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Excellent. Thanks for this 🤙

Can you share the Brembo PN cast into the calipers?
The cast numbers are 20.A124.05 2A and 20.A124.06 2A. The Hyundai OEM part numbers are 58190-2MA10 and 58180-2MA10.

This is quite a task, obviously you were bored.

At most, I would have done steel braided lines, new pads and rotors, and good fluid.
I wont say I was bored, I would say that I was impatient with the braking. In all honesty, the rotors were left over from my Ridgeline project that I never went through and the calipers were bought as a test fit project as they were only $75 a piece few years back. Now the prices are insane for these.

I have had braided lines and they do not make an ounce of difference.
 

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There's a lot of science that goes into properly sizing and modulating an effective brake upgrade system. Master cylinder size and capacity, diameter of brake lines, brake pad area, brake friction materials, number of caliper pistons, etc. will all affect the brake bias and effectiveness of a proper upgrade. I used to have lengthy and interesting discussions about this with Steve Ruiz, founder of StopTech. There's a lot more to it than just physically installing larger hardware.
Would be interested to see empirical data of before & after braking performance, brake bias, etc. and hear more about how you determined what brake hardware and componentry you used.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
@WheelMaker , you have a very valid point and that was one of the questions I expressed to folks at Rotora and StopTech back in 2018, when I was seriously looking into a BBK setup for my G1 Ridgeline as an option.

I had an opportunity to speak with Erik at StopTech and his recommendations and technical details were very helpful. I went with Rotora, purely based on the deal I was able to strike with them. Stoptech only had 380mm rotors for the BBK while Rotora had a choice of 380mm or 355mm for the G1 and I went with the 355mm so I can use the 18in wheels.

One thing they both recommended were these
  • No need to upgrade master cylinder, higher capacity reservoir, brake fluid, brake booster, or repgramming the ABS modulator.
  • I can buy just the front BBK if I wanted and reassured that the brake bias will not be affected with the stock one in the rear.

The above remarks by both was very alien, and thus hard to digest, as I have done rear brake upgrade on my '89 Accord (drums to disks) and upgraded my front rotors and calipers and that necessitated that I swap out the master cylinder and the proportioning valves to maintain the bias and behavior.

In the mid 2000s, Honda introduced EBD to manage the brake force distribution dynamically. This rapidly filtered down the vehicles and thus I had it in my '08 Accord. Combined with the VSA and EBD, combined with ABS, the computer is able to manage braking much faster and better than just the hardware and driver combo.

I do not have any empirical data to share in regards to my readings or calculations as I have none. I have went down the rabbit hole of determining the characteristics using brake force calculator and understanding that much of that is reliant on the coefficient of friction of the brake pads and that is an information that many manufacturers, including Centric, were unwilling to share.

That said, this is what I have
  • G5 Odyssey front brake caliper piston area is 3617.28 sq.mm and rear is 1451.47 sq.mm (55/45 - F/R weight distribution).
  • G1 Ridgeline front brake caliper piston area is 3039.52 sq.mm and the rear is 1256.00 sq.mm (58/42 - F/R weight distribution).
  • G2 Ridgeline front brake caliper piston area is 3542.31 sq.mm and the rear is 1451.47 sq.mm (58.6/41.4 - F/R weight distribution).
All run 320x28 mm rotors front rotors and 330x9 mm rear rotors.


Rotora G1 Ridgeline (355mm rotor) front brake caliper piston area is 5262.64 sq.mm and rear is 2292.2 sq.mm
- the front area is 1.73 times and rear is 1.83 times larger than OEM G1 Ridgeline
Stoptech Ridgeline (380mm rotor) front brake caliper piston area is 5262.64 sq.mm and rear is 2461.76 sqmm
- front is 1.73 times and rear is 1.96 times larger than OEM G1 Ridgeline

Genesis R-spec front is 5538.93 sqmm (mated to a 340mm rotor)

G5 Odyssey front brake pad size is 9265 sq.mm
Rotora front brake pad size is 10,824 sq.mm
Genesis/Brembo pad size is 7602 sq.mm
* Above calculation is an average and the method of calculation is the same.

Given the information above, there is not really a cut and right answer to your question as many items are either unknown or hard to accurately represent and test in the real world.
Thus my recommendation is to go with a higher temp brake fluid, high performance rotor (as opposed to some oem blank) and a mid level brake pad with middle ground friction at the front and upgrading the rears for sure with a matched high performance setup to yield a more confident and consistent braking. Another reason why I also waited for 2500+miles to see how the van behaved and ripped the fronts apart to inspect about 1200 miles and then make this recommendation.
 

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curb the front passenger wheel
I might just avoid upgrading to 19” this curb rash is inevitable.

the wheels you have in there looks great!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I might just avoid upgrading to 19” this curb rash is inevitable.

the wheels you have in there looks great!
My wife is just bad in driving. She curbed my 18" wheel as well. As long as you dont drive like my wife, I think you will be safe even with 20" wheels. I liked the 19s, but prefer the 18s due to New Jersey roads.

Thank you. The wheels fit the van well, but also I am partial to the darker grey and black wheels.
Here are few shots from the time I had the wheels installed; and my Ridgeline with darker wheels.
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Looks great!
 

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Great project 👍
 
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