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Bunch of Dash Lights (ABS/LDW/FCW/VSA) - Cleared on Own - Can Dealer Pull History?

20K views 27 replies 12 participants last post by  korence45  
#1 ·
Hello,
9 days ago my wife drove our 2014 Odyssey for the first time in several days. Within less than a minute of leaving our house, the dash lit up with warning lights (ABS/LDW/FCW/VSA). She quickly returned home and took my car to her appointment. The van seemed to be idling/driving fine. Since I noticed nothing else acting strange that I could troubleshoot myself, I called and made an appointment at the local Honda dealer, but on the way there I drove Advanced Auto thinking that I'd have them check the 3.5 year / 30K miles old battery as sometimes a going bad battery can do strange things. Within a few minutes of leaving my house, the all the lights went out. I continued on to Advanced Auto who checked the battery and said it was good. They also said they couldn't read any codes since the check engine light wasn't on. I restarted the car and decided to drive home and see if the problem returned instead of going to the dealer (in the hopes of saving the time and money of taking it in). We've used the van for several short local trips in the last week without any issues.

This morning, I went to drive the van to work. It had been siting outside overnight and the temperature got down to about 25 deg F, from 60s a couple days ago. Within less than a minute of pulling out of my driveway, all of the warning lights came back on. In addition to all of the same lights from the first time, the TPMS light was also on, which wasn't on the first time. I parked the van at at my house and drove my car to work.

I came home this afternoon and checked the tire pressures. All were low (between ~ 25 & 30 PSI vs. 33 PSI recommended pressure). I inflated them to 33-34 PSI and drove the car and all of the lights went back off. The van is a 2014 Touring with ~ 63K. It's been virtually trouble free in the ~7 years we've owned it (since new).

From what I've seen on this forum and elsewhere is that these faults can trip for a number on reasons on Honda vehicles, many of which are very different and seemingly unrelated. When I called the Honda dealer, the service advisor wasn't able to tell me if they'd be able to get fault codes if the lights weren't on when I brought it in. I really don't want to waste my time taking it in if it's not going to provide new information and I'm not at the point yet where I want to play trial and error with new parts as the van seems to be operating ok as far as I can tell, if I was to ignore the fact that the dash lights were all illuminated.

Any ideas if the dealer can get the history for intermittent warning lights like this? Any other general guidance on how to sort this out? I checked under the hood today and saw nothing obviously wrong. Fluids were all at appropriate levels, and there were no signs of broken wires, missing/loose fuses, worn/damaged components). I'm still thinking about just buying a new battery and seeing if that keeps the gremlins at bay. My only other idea at this point is to see if the dealer can help.

We have no immediate plans to get rid of the van yet and it's our primary family hauler (pre-COVID when we used to do things) so I'd like to have confidence that's it's still reliable. Thanks!
 
#4 ·
how long was it sitting between uses? was a boost required?
did autozone actually load test the battery? or just measure the voltage?
Due to the pandemic, my wife and kids have been at home a lot and the van has gotten very little use this year. We had some routine maintenance done on it at 59.3k miles on 2/28/20, before we drove from Raleigh, NC to Orlando, Fl in early March (1.2k miles). It only has 63.5k now. So in over 9 months, it’s only been driven 3k miles.

With that background, it generally gets used for short trips a couple times a week. It was driven two days before the original incident and several times between the original and yesterday when it happened for the second time.

it’s never needed to be jumped started or showed any indications of a problem - other than the dash lights (no hesitation, no rough idle, no loss of power, no inoperable electric doors/rear hatch, etc). The auto parts shop employee came outside with me, with a battery tester. She connected it to the terminals and ran a diagnostic test. She said “your battery is good” and said “our tester can’t check anything unless your check engine light is on”. I didn’t get many more details from her unfortunately so I can’t state what characteristics of the battery was tested. She never hooked up an ODB tester or anything other than the battery tester.

I have an appointment to drop it off at the Honda dealer tomorrow after work so they can check it out on Tuesday. I’m still wondering if I should buy a new battery before I take it or just take it and see if they recommend a new battery, or something else. I’m still wondering if they’ll be able to see the previous faults since they cleared up on their own.
 
#3 ·
Get a second opinion on that 3.5 year old battery. I’m betting it’s the battery.
 
#5 ·
Out of curiosity, and because I could go and get back in 20 minutes, I just went to Autozone (previously took it to Advanced Auto) to let them test the battery to see if they’d give the same answer. Came back “good” but was only ~ 65% charged. But not surprising given a lot of short trips lately. The guy pulled the positive wire off of the battery while the van was running to check if the alternator was working - it was.

So perhaps I’ll drive it to work this week which is about 35 minutes each way, which will give it some time to charge, and some more chances to see if / when the dash lights come back.

Would you take it to Honda (will they be able to read the faults), or should I just wait until it gets worse?
 
#9 ·
I would NOT take it to a Honda Dealer. You will pay and they likely won't tell you anything different. You have a known battery issue (low charge). You need to either put it on a trickle charger or drive it one or two days a week on that 70 mile round trip to keep the battery maintained.
 
#7 ·
if you have a charger, put it on a 2 amp charge overnight.
FLA batteries take longer to recharge, over an AGM.

all those errors would likely be related to voltage, and your brand and quality of battery is unknown.

as you mentioned, the long trip may do the trick to get it back to 90% charge.

if it does end up being the battery, go with a costco replacement, they have the best replacement warranty.
 
#8 ·
It may be worth checking your alternator circuit too. If it started on that cold morning without a jump, the battery probably isn't bad enough to cause low voltage problems unless the alternator or charging wiring is bad. There are various cigarette lighter widgets that can give you a voltage readout (~$10). Or, buy a cheap bluetooth code reader (~$10 for Android, $20-30 for iPhone) and a free OBDII app and you can check the voltage over OBDII.
 
#11 ·
My guess is that it is an electrical issue. It would be very odd if all those systems had issues at the same time. From prior experience, a low battery will cause many warning lights to come on. A battery should last more than 3.5 years. I would check the voltage before you start the car, you should have at least 12.5 volts. . Then check the voltage again with the car running. You want to make sure the voltage is high enough, 13-14.5 volts, to charge your battery. If voltage is fine with the alternator running, I would drive the car on the highway for a while and then when you get back home, check the voltage again with the car off. If the voltage is below 12.6 volts, I would consider getting a new battery.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Disconnecting your battery while the car is running can damage your control module and/or alternator. There are some good videos on YouTube (Scotty Kilmer) that explain. Previous generation alternators can handle disconnection, but modern alternators with variable loading can be damaged severely by disconnecting the battery.

I recommend getting a good brand name 5A smart charger for flooded lead acid batteries. Your battery is not being charged enough and low charge with cold weather can kill it quickly.

And anybody telling you there are no codes stored if the MIL is not on is full of crap. A good scanner can find codes that don't trip the MIL (more Scotty Kilmer videos on that too). The dealer service advisers and parts store clerks either don't know what they are doing or are using a cheap scan tool. Unfortunately, uneducated stupidity is the way things seem to be going.
 
#14 ·
Update:
Drove it ~58 miles round trip to work on Tuesday - no issues at all.

Started it up Wednesday morning to repeat drive to work, but the dash lite back up by the time I got in front of my next door neighbor’s house so I parked it and drove my car.

Since this was the third time and I’d like to get to the bottom of this, I dropped it off at the Honda dealer last night to see what they could tell me when they checked it out today.

Turns out - not too much. They saw temporary codes for an ABS issue and one for low voltage, which they cleared out. Service advisor said ABS issue could be related to battery and wasn’t confident enough to start with that issue until we sort out the potential battery issue.

So... the gremlins survive into 2021. I came home and dug out a battery tender junior that I had from a motorcycle that I no longer own. Pulled the battery out and I’m going to leave it on that for the next few days or until the LED light turns green (assuming it’s able to help). At no point has the battery needed a jump or hesitated to start the engine, so hopefully the battery tender can help.

On the work order, it basically just said to charge the battery and see what happens. Good news was that the dealer didn’t charge me anything today which I was pleasantly surprised by. Maybe 2021 will be better than 2020....?
 
#28 ·
Update: Drove it ~58 miles round trip to work on Tuesday - no issues at all. Started it up Wednesday morning to repeat drive to work, but the dash lite back up by the time I got in front of my next door neighbor’s house so I parked it and drove my car. Since this was the third time and I’d like to get to the bottom of this, I dropped it off at the Honda dealer last night to see what they could tell me when they checked it out today. Turns out - not too much. They saw temporary codes for an ABS issue and one for low voltage, which they cleared out. Service advisor said ABS issue could be related to battery and wasn’t confident enough to start with that issue until we sort out the potential battery issue. So... the gremlins survive into 2021. I came home and dug out a battery tender junior that I had from a motorcycle that I no longer own. Pulled the battery out and I’m going to leave it on that for the next few days or until the LED light turns green (assuming it’s able to help). At no point has the battery needed a jump or hesitated to start the engine, so hopefully the battery tender can help. On the work order, it basically just said to charge the battery and see what happens. Good news was that the dealer didn’t charge me anything today which I was pleasantly surprised by. Maybe 2021 will be better than 2020....?
Did you ever find out what the problem is? How did you fix it?
 
#16 ·
That load tester looks like a good tool to have and it’s nice and affordable at ~$20. I’m wondering how that would compare to what the auto parts store uses or the dealer. I was hoping the dealer was going to be more helpful than they were.

I put the battery on the Battery Tender Jr yesterday around mid-day and it had a green light on it this morning, indicating that it was fully charged up now. I plan on trying to drive the van at least a few days and seeing if the gremlins are still around.
 
#17 ·
I am sorry but you have wasted way too much time on this. It IS your battery. If you drove 58 miles and still had a low voltage, you need a new battery period. Not many report their Ody batteries lasting well into the 4th year. 3 years is pretty much it. These vans are really hard on the batteries and the Honda factory or replacement ones suck. Look up dozens of threads on batteries and put yourself out of this misery and get a decent Everstart Maxx from Walmart and be done with it.
 
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#18 ·
I agree with wasting time!

I was prepared to buy a battery the first time this happened but didn’t want to throw a part at a problem that I didn’t fully understand the root cause of.

What had thrown me for a loop is that 3 places which could sell me a battery (in fact the only reason they exist is to sell parts/service) have not simply said to buy a battery?
 
#19 ·
The thing that makes us all so confident in urging you to "just replace the battery already" is our familiarity with the electrical system and typical battery life of a power hog like a Honda Odyssey. Members here have seen and/or lived this countless times. It's unlikely there are very many parts counter guys/gals who can match that,and honestly, I think you've been lucky to not encounter someone who just wants you to load up the parts cannon and start blasting away.

Hopefully your problem falls into the category of "completely typical" and a new battery solves everything. 🙂
 
#20 ·
You would think that with as tech as these vans are, they could shut of some lights during the day. In my EX-L, every time I open either front door, the headlights come on. (If left in auto) if you leave the interior lights on "door" they come on during the day as well. These vans know how bright it is out when running (they adjust the light level of the screens and change from daytime to normal headlights) why can't they do that all the time?

I work out of my van. I am in and out of it dozens of times a stop. I need to remember to turn the interior lights off and the auto headlights as well. Then turn everything back on again at night.

And dig out my phone to see what time it is because they forgot to put a clock on the dash.
 
#21 ·
With today's vehicles, low voltage raises all kinds of hell. You probably need a battery. The battery in my truck was dying and I knew it. It also needed a state inspection, so while it was down there i got them to run a diagnostic on the battery, and they said it was good. Now this is an '07 truck with the original battery, okay? So I asked them to check again, and while I stood there they checked and said it was good. Two days later it croaked and i put a new one in it. I mean, I was going to buy a battery at the shop and they turned me away, saying it was okay. So I bought one at Autozone, the most powerful one they had for it. The old battery was smaller but the new one completely filled the large battery tray!
The point is you just can't trust the checks they do on a battery.
I was going to suggest a couple of things that I'll go ahead and post because it might help somebody sometime. First, take the terminals off to see if they and the posts are corroded, and clean/grease accordingly - there's a battery cleaner spray you use and hose off. Then check all the ground connections to the body or thicker steel brackets, etc. Look for bare, braided cables that screw to the firewall and engine block, etc. If you see green/white corrosion, you'll have to clean/lube, using the battery cleaner and spray lube. if not, get in the habit of spraying them all once a year with spray lube. 'Corrosion-X' is great for this but don't get the 'Heavy-Duty' - it's too gooey.
 
#22 ·
Well, charged the battery over the weekend, drove it Saturday without issue, but the gremlins returned this morning so I went to nearby auto store (Advanced Auto) tonight and bought a new battery (DieHard Platinum AGMBattery, Group Size 24F, 710 CCA- which is basically the same specs as the one that it replaced).

So now I wait to see if gremlins stay away or if I need to dig deeper to find them.

As a side note, had a not so nice surprise after I parked in my driveway and tried to lock the van after getting the new battery installed - the van was completely dark without any power what so ever. After getting over the shock of driving home with a new battery without any issues and then immediately finding it had no juice, I popped the hood to troubleshoot. Turns out the associate at Advanced Auto installed “terminal protectors” (felt donut looking things) on each battery post. These stupid things didn’t allow the wire clamps to tightly secure themselves onto the battery. On the 5 mile drive home, the positive cable just popped off. Luckily I detected this issue in my own driveway where I had tools to immediately address with minimal inconvenience. This is why I don’t like people touching my stuff. :)
 
#23 ·
So the gremlins came back yesterday morning, and the dash lit up with all the same warning lights after several days and a few hundred miles without issues after replacing the battery. The lights went back out on my drive home from work, but I still dropped it off again at the Honda dealer last night (hoping that they could trace it down better this time).

This morning they called and said that the van needed the VSA modulator replaced ($1584 parts + labor). Ouch. I does look like I may get off lucky as we purchased an extended warranty when we bought the van new in 2014. It wasn't through Honda directly but after checking, the service advisor said that it would be covered. It's the first time I've used the warranty so it looks like I'll be glad we bought it. We should be able to pick it back up tomorrow.
 
#25 ·
The next cheapest part would be the alternator. I would try that first before the VSA modulator. Since you have a warranty, no harm no foul but if it was money out of pocket, the alternator would be next one to look into.
 
#24 ·
If the new modulator doesn't solve the issue, I would recommend looking at the alternator again and checking all of the wiring associated with the battery and alternator as 191145 suggested. I recently changed the timing belt and water pump on my Odyssey and, after putting on the new timing belt BUT before putting on the covers and drive belt, I started the van to check for coolant leaks and to make sure it ran okay (i.e., alternator not functioning). The engine started up and ran great, but the dash was lit up like a Xmas tree. Once I had everything back together and the drive belt was installed, all was fine. Without alternator = dash lit up like a Xmas tree. With alternator = dash lights as should be and runs great.
 
#26 ·
Agree on the looking at the alternator, if needed. Intermittent electrical issues are not easy sometimes to track down. I'm an engineer by training (Industrial, not electrical), but I work with electrical engineers who troubleshoot manufacturing equipment and sometimes part replacement can be the only way to narrow in on a problem. That approach can get expensive quick, so I hope the technicians at Honda were able to have some confidence in the fault codes they saw this last time. The service advisor seemed confident, but I'll wait and see. Still waiting to pick up the van. They found a few other things too that I'm having done while it's there so it's not ready yet. Hoping to get it back today.
 
#27 ·
Since it's been a little while, I wanted to provide an update. After having the VSA modulator replaced at the dealer, the issue has not returned. So... unless the gremlins come back again (we haven't driven the van too much since the work was done), I'll assume the dealer's diagnosis was correct - which is hopefully the case. Thanks for all the feedback.