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Newbie here, just logged on to access the wonderful tips on changing the air filter. 60K, so it was due. Bought it "pre-certified" at 35K, so it obviously was done at 30K right? Nah....but then the clock light was out the night I drove it home from the stealer...er, dealer....but I digress!

Loved the pics from sueandroy:nice: Job wasn't bad once I got over the "you gotta be kiddin' me" factor of the cabin air filter placement. Scratched my head, rolled my eyes and got down to it.

I did just a few things different:

1. I didn't pull off the trim pieces or fuse box cover to access the glove box frame screws, but went at it from underneath. It helps that I'm 5'6" and have long fingers. It's good to be a girl.;)

2. I could not be bothered cutting the plastic frame out with a utility knife. I used a hacksaw, held vertically, while my other hand held the wiring clear. If you keep the hacksaw vertical, you'll hit the metal frame before the wiring, but it's good to be cautious if the wiring has some slack & could wander in. Not much sawing room, but the hacksaw will get a lot of bite for little movement.

3. I also omitted the cotton swab on ruler do-hickey. Long fingers to the rescue again on the jammed leaf crud near the front. And I turned the blower motor on high to clear the box after I vacuumed all I could. Expect a confetti burst of leaves (keep your face clear), but hey, you had the vacuum ready and you wanted the box clean, right?

4. I left the LHS brass finger tight then a teensy turn with the wrench. No need to go to extremes, as I will be going in again in 30K.

Just in case this does not solve the stale/dank smell that sometimes blows through. could someone tell me where the drain hole is underneath the car? I may need to check it for blockage. (I know I need to watch for drips when the AC is running in humid weather, but if it is blocked, I won't see drips!)
 

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I just cracked mine open and dang im really messed up. I was in a rush to get to filter so I do not think i really swiveled. I THINK i actually bent the metal trying to swivel it from one side. now on the left side I cant get the screw in that connects the metal bar to the vynl molding which [I think] gives support to the glove box, thus didnt put in my glove box yet. So does anyone have a clue what should i do. When i position the molding perfectly I see the metal bar's hole in which I want the screw to go... But ever so slightly (just a tiny black mark =/. On the other side how ever i somehow got both the screws in the one to the far right went in easy, but the 2nd one a little to the left went in the slightest bit curved, BUT the thread is still good. I hope someone can help me out though! I'm box less at the moment=/. Oh yeah I forgot to mention [almost] this tutorial is great! Good pictures and perfect instructions. My filter was fully fully black. It was absolutely HORRIBLE at 60k miles (actually 59,8xx).
Thanks
Kumar
 

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puneshop said:
When i position the molding perfectly I see the metal bar's hole in which I want the screw to go... But ever so slightly (just a tiny black mark =/. [/B]
Kumar, did you make sure the little v-shaped metal piece that catches the screw thread is still there? Without it, the screw will just spin freely and never tighten up. If that is there, you may have to fiddle with the metal till you get it close enough. Worst case, replace the metal bar with a new one.:eek:
 

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Yeah I got everything actually in (somehow) for now. i took out the 7mm screw from the left side and i saw that the piece of metal was really bent. so to fix it i just ran the screw from the opposite side.. where the thread of the screw screws in.. and i put somewhat of a cap on the other side to hold it together. I think its only for supporting the glove box (actually I hope) so I think theres enough support for now. I do not think you can get a new metal bar, but if I can what should I be searching for?
Thanks
Kumar
 

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puneshop said:
I do not think you can get a new metal bar, but if I can what should I be searching for?
Thanks
Kumar
I'd guess an auto body shop could help you out, or a salvage yard, if the the Honda dealer can't. (The dealer may not stock body parts.)
 

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Our local bone yards allow you to take tools in to remove the parts you want. That specific bracket should not be hard to find and very cheap to say the least. Call ahead to find one available and inquire about removing that one bracket. 99'-04' Ody's are what you looking for BTW.

:)
 

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I think the last time I changed the cabin filter I just bent the damn thing out of the way and just bent it back.
 

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clock light working again

marcin67 said:
I've been driving without a clock light ever since I got the van.
I decided that neither paying the dealer nor doing it myself is
worth it. But just yeasterday I read through this thread and
some older threads about the clock and I learned that some people fix the clock with just few taps on the dashbord.
I tried it, and after 4 fairly hard taps the clock light started to work.
I am not sure if this will last, but it is worth trying.
This is unbelievable! I recently bought a used '00 and the clock light wasn't working. After reading marcin67's post I went out to the van and smacked it 4 times on the dashboard, and the backlight came on. Hopefully it will keep on working.
This forum has been so helpful to me as a new Oddy owner to figure out all the quirks of my new vehicle. Thanks to all.
 

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Check the tranny fluid color and smell. Your gen tends to have weaker trannies. If dirty do a 3 times drain and fill plus 1 using about 13 qts. of fluid. Drive between sessions to hwy speeds to lock the torque converter. No power flushes...
 

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Found this forum by landing on this thread - absolute goldmine of info. I can't get over what a hassle the 1st time cabin air filter change is for my 04. Any will be tacking this next week when my filter shows up from Amazon.
 

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Does anybody know if the stock Honda cabin filter is CARBON activated or something special?
I ask because I bought an aftermarket filter and it appears to be a simple paper filter, so I wondered if there was any advantage to buying "Genuine Honda" for this part.
 

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Thanks to everyone that contributed to make this a 45 minute job. I just purchased an '04 Ody with 63K miles. I thought it would have been done at least once. Nope. The plastic bar was still intact. The original filter was pretty yucky -- on both sides.

Photos and directions were spot on.

John Grier
San Diego
 

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cabin filter replacement

thanks to everyone for the helpful information of how to replace the cabin filter. i 'll replace mine this weekend.

what i don't understand is what the designers of Odyssey where thinking when they decided to put the air filter behind so many obstacles. I mean come on...does one really need to cut through plastic, unscrew half a dozen bolts (and spend time looking for them) to replace a cheap part like the cabin filter??? is this poor engineering or what?

i like my 03 ody but after seeing where the cabin filter was put i'm starting to doubt the designers common sense. If anyone knows of a good reason why they put the poor thing in such a bad spot please tell me, otherwise i'll just keep bad mouth-ing the engineers...
 

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Just did my second cabin filter replacement.
After following these instructions the first time it took less than 20 minutes the second time. I would of never attempted it with out these directions. Now its just as easy as the engine air filter.
 

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Once again, you guys have all saved me a bunch of cash. I've had my 2000 Ody since May 2003. Never considered the cabin filter untill recently. And since I still use the Dealer (don't know why) for oil changes, I had to sit thru the upsell attempts the other day.

Engine air filter....$55
Cabin air filter......$125

Being EXTREMELY insulted, I jumped on here and found this thread. The engine filter, no big deal. I'm sure I've done that at least once in 6 years. But the cabin? Didn't have a clue.

The bottom line......pics 'should' be attached. Numbers are as follows........
Engine filter.......14.99
Cabin.................21.99 Both from O'Reilly

Lot's of debris from the cabin filter change. Plastic crossbrace was already gone. The B4 pic is after I washed it two or three times.

And I'm considering leaving everything open for mileage comparisons of how quickly the new cabin filter clogs up.
Plus, I like someone's idea of cutting that stupid metal crossbrace and inserting a removable patch of some kind for easier access.

The Dealer 'claims' they checked it, but I didn't think the engine filter was that bad.

Opinions?
 

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