Newbie here, just logged on to access the wonderful tips on changing the air filter. 60K, so it was due. Bought it "pre-certified" at 35K, so it obviously was done at 30K right? Nah....but then the clock light was out the night I drove it home from the stealer...er, dealer....but I digress!
Loved the pics from sueandroy:nice: Job wasn't bad once I got over the "you
gotta be kiddin' me" factor of the cabin air filter placement. Scratched my head, rolled my eyes and got down to it.
I did just a few things different:
1. I didn't pull off the trim pieces or fuse box cover to access the glove box frame screws, but went at it from underneath. It helps that I'm 5'6" and have long fingers. It's good to be a girl.
2. I could not be bothered cutting the plastic frame out with a utility knife. I used a hacksaw, held vertically, while my other hand held the wiring clear. If you keep the hacksaw vertical, you'll hit the metal frame before the wiring, but it's good to be cautious if the wiring has some slack & could wander in. Not much sawing room, but the hacksaw will get a lot of bite for little movement.
3. I also omitted the cotton swab on ruler do-hickey. Long fingers to the rescue again on the jammed leaf crud near the front. And I turned the blower motor on high to clear the box after I vacuumed all I could. Expect a confetti burst of leaves (keep your face clear), but hey, you had the vacuum ready and you wanted the box clean, right?
4. I left the LHS brass finger tight then a teensy turn with the wrench. No need to go to extremes, as I will be going in again in 30K.
Just in case this does not solve the stale/dank smell that sometimes blows through. could someone tell me where the drain hole is underneath the car? I may need to check it for blockage. (I know I need to watch for drips when the AC is running in humid weather, but if it is blocked, I won't see drips!)