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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I have a 95 EX and the front driver side caliper is stuck when brake is applied.

I went and got a rebuilt caliper but did the same thing. I traced the break line back up to the cylinder and find no kink in the line.

I'm stuck as to what is making this caliper stuck when break is applied. Please advise.



Thanks!
MP
 

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I've never heard of a stuck cylinder due to a kink in the line, but I suppose its possible.

My first guess would be the caliper guide pins and holes are worn out, and the caliper is getting hung up. This would result in the outer pad being worn out very quickly, while the inner would be left wearing normally, since the piston wouldn't be stuck.

If the piston really is stuck, you probably have a bad rebuilt. I suppose its possible if the caliper guide pins were really bad, the piston itself could become wedged.
 

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You need to do a little isolation instead of guessing. First have someone hold a little pressure on the brake pedal while you open the bleeder slightly. Does fluid come out and the pedal go down? If so the lines are free and there is a mechanical problem in the caliper but first you need to explain what you are doing and what makes you think the caliper is stuck. If it is more braking on the other side you could be working on thr wrong caliper.
 

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One pretty sure way to tell if a brake is driving is to go for a quick drive without using the brakes, then downshift and coast to a stop(translation... use the brakes as little as possible, but stop relatively quickly. Since you are concerned about the front brakes, use the parking brake to stop the car since it uses the rear brakes only). This will leave any dragging brake much hotter than the others.

Check the lugnut heads first, the the disc itself if you can reach it without removing the wheel, if you can't feel a big difference between the lugnuts on the two sides of the car.

Be aware, if you really DO have a dragging brake, the lugnuts may be hot enough to cause real burns to skin. Just give them a tap or two with fingertips until you get a sense that they are safe to really touch. I found this out the hard way with a dragging rear caliper on my Integra :(
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thank you all for the responses. I should have been more clear as to what I did/doing.

I know for sure the caliper is stuck because I jacked up the front and put the car in gear. The passenger side wheel rotate normally, the left side (driver side) won't. Took it for a quick ride around the block and the left side(driver side) of the wheel is super hot (lug nuts, rotor, caliper and pads) The guide pins are fine, sliding freely.

I bled the caliper with someone holding down the break pedal and liquid does come out the bleeder as normal. When the caliper is stuck, the only way to get it off is to relieve pressure through the bleeder.

Again, if there is a kink in the line, the would result in the caliper retracting slower or non at all - which is my case. But there is no kink at all.

I'm at a lost here. I'll return the rebuilt caliper and see if any thing changes. Please continue to advise.


Thanks!

MP
 

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To further check the line, you can loosen the nut a turn or two for that particular brake line at the master cylinder end. While loosening, look for fluid to come out under pressure.

If loosening the nut frees the wheel, you can be sure the brake line is fine. In this case, I wonder if something has gone terribly wrong in the master cylinder which leaves pressure applied.

If it does not free the wheel, there probably really is something blocking the line. Check the line further.


From your description that opening the bleeder frees the wheel, it sounds like the caliper and pins are fine.
 

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Have you checked the guide pins as SuperDad first suggested?
These can get corroded and not allow the caliper to retract. I got replacement pins and boots from Autozone for a good price, when I couldn't clean up my old pins. Also, put some brake lube on the pins.
 

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As mentioned above replace the brake hise. They can separate on the inside making like a one way valve. Or wiggle it a few rimes when the wheel is locked or loosen the end away from the caliper. If loosening it releases the pressure the blockage is further back toward the master cylandes.
 
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