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Okay guys I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey EXL with entertainment system no navigation. I don't think that has any bearing on this but I've read a million of these posts and it always gets included so there it is. I've been a member body club for a long time I've got a ton of help from this site you guys are amazing. All that being said I stepped outside of my comfort zone a little bit attempted to do the timing belt\water pump with the addition of doing the camshaft and crank seals and in doing this I attempted to cost cut by not buying the tool that holds the cam pulley still because YouTube said I could do it with a screwdriver. You know how this ends the screwdriver slipped my rear cam pulley spun about 90° out of time and it won't go back either way because it hits like a spring or something I'm not sure what it hits but it goes and goes and then it just won't dig if it gets too hard and it's not compression I don't know what it is because I'm really kind of a novice like I know enough to get to this point but I don't know enough to get out. is a valve spring compression tool and option here and if so just any kind of direction would be really helpful.
 

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Replacing cam seals is a waste of time, they will outlive your van.

You should be able to rotate back this camshaft. It feels like it is under spring load, but it is normal.

Just forget about cam seal, and carefully rotate camshaft back. Only if it stops firmly, that would be a sign of problem, meaning that valve is hitting piston. Otherwise you are fine
 
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I suggest you wait a bit for others to reply, but based on the previous reply, it sounds like you will be okay. I assume you knew to buy and install the Aisin timing belt kit, and nothing else.

Also, since you have an EX-L, please consider muzzling your VCM, to prevent major engine damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
yeah the first reply makes sense because I kept wondering like how did I get past that point you know what I mean like okay fine I'm tourquing down the camshaft pulley and the screwdriver slips all right but how did I get past this wall that I can't get back through it didn't make sense to me so I'm going home right now man I'm about to try it and I will keep you all posted on second thought it might be a good idea to wait for someone else to second this option. We shall see.as for the vcm muzzler from what I understand that eliminates the Eco-Drive part right where it runs on just three cylinders instead of six. Do those three cylinders alternate or is it the same three cylinders every time I really don't know much about it to be honest and I know odyclub is loaded down but it's never been something that I really been overly concerned about so I didn't do that much research.
 

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Do those three cylinders alternate or is it the same three cylinders every time I really don't know much about it to be honest and I know odyclub is loaded down but it's never been something that I really been overly concerned about so I didn't do that much research.
It is same 3 cylinders. Also when this happens, the closed cylinders have ALL valves closed and that causes vaccum to be formed inside the cylinder head and it could suck in the engine oil through the cylinder ring causing the plug fouling and at worst the cylinder ring/wall damage requiring expensive engine rebuild thus better to disable the VCM function all together. Also, when the system enters and exits the 3 cylinder mode, the excessive engine vibration is absolved by "active" engine mount which is VERY expensive to fix and they DO go bad often.
 

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So, you were doing this with the belt off, and now you need to resynch your three timing marks. Slow-steady-clockwise, and make sure (that's absolutely, positively certain) you are using the correct marks for alignment. Look at a South Main Auto TB change on Youtube for good practices.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah I watch South main audio a lot that's probably the number one instrument of my destruction I didn't go clockwise though. Is that a thing like what's the big deal about that?
 

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I think clockwise is recommended because its the normal rotation of the motor. it does matter for turning with the timing belt on because it is designed to have the belt under tension on the non-tensioner side. Not sure that you could actually slip the timing belt, but maybe there is another reason CCW is not recommended. I can't see it mattering much for a camshaft. Are the guides rollers bearings?
 

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After reading this thread, my suggestion is that you stop now and have your vehicle towed to Honda or a reputable neighborhood import shop. It sounds like you've rotated the cam enough to jam the valves into the top of the cylinders, at least you've misaligned the timing marks.. Tell them what you did and hope they have someone on staff who knows the 3.5 well enough to properly clock the motor and reinstall your belt. Just my suggestion. Failure to properly reinstall the belt or misaligned timing marks will instantly destroy the motor should you try and start it. If that does happen, it will be bad, really bad. You could sell the van to me for $100 and I'll send a truck. Otherwise, just put it in the back yard and eventually a tree will grow inside. Hope that does not happen. Good luck.
 

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OP > Based on post 7, this is going south. TB job even some knowledgeable folks don't mind getting it done. If you have not gone through several videos and have not read or use the well-written TB job doc on this forum, then its time to get it done or find a mobile mechanic to do it at your place...

Procedures are just what they are when it comes to rotation, marks, etc. Reversing and then saying so what is like old discussions where someone asks do you really need to change each component of the TB kit. This is an interference engine. Handle with care. Good luck.
 
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I would like to offer some encouragement as this is a DIY job, but I think your use of "destruction" may be why others are suggesting you seek a mechanic. It is a big job and there is a lot at stake if it is not perfect. Kind of like making lug nuts finger tight. It may look good, but there is a lot that can go wrong.
 

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There's no need to panic and drop everything and run. Give a few tries at getting the three timing marks aligned. If you can do it, you're good. If you can't, tow it, call a mobile mechanic or a friend or relative who's more experienced. Just don't start it up if the marks aren't aligned after the "rotate by hand tool" test.
 
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I believe I've read on this forum (I could be wrong) that if the crankshaft is rotated anticlockwise 90* from TDC, the cams can be turned without valves hitting the pistons. Doing this would allow positioning cams at the correct mark, then turn the crankshaft to TDC.
 

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if it were me, with my limited experience, I would feel confident either using what willyfixit proposed or just removing the spark plugs so that the only thing you are fighting against is valve springs in the camshaft. no compression to worry about. Would you be able to damage anything turning the crank sprockets by hand and moving the crank with minimal force to get things lined up for the belt replacement?
 

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Would you be able to damage anything turning the crank sprockets by hand and moving the crank with minimal force to get things lined up for the belt replacement?
I wouldn't think so.

(You say "crank sprockets" but I think you mean the cam sprockets?)

Slow and steady wins the race.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well I was able to spend the cam sprockets back have everything lined up top dead center went and purchased a compression tester and every cylinder only read about 30 lbs. Thought maybe if there's a problem with a compression tester whatever cuz everything seemed smooth turn it over by hand there was nothing stopping it but after I got the job completed got it all put back together it will not start it turns over sometimes at the end lets out a it sounds like an exhausted gasp like it's tired you know what I mean. So now I'm sitting here thinking about parting thing out I don't know what to do this is bad and getting worse. So if somebody taught me off a leg here please tell me what to do I'm lost. Unfortunately at this point a mechanic isn't an option I'm the best I have.
 

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I don’t have any answers but it would probably help to provide a little more detail. You are completely assembled again with a new timing belt and tensioner... when you turn the key the engine cranks but does not fire? At this point you have a battery/starter capable of rotating the motor but not much more? You said a compression test was done so the plugs were out. Any chance something not fully assembled? Coil connections on top of plugs?
 

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Yes, six new coils with the NGK irridium plugs that are all connected plugged up and tightened down. I'm searching for the easy answer here and I just don't have one like I said the other compression test that they all tested it 30 lb which is nowhere near what it's supposed to be and it just seemed weird number and they all every cylinder tested it at and I'm like why would all the valves be bent or why would it all come to 30 it just doesn't make sense. I'm like 5 minutes removed from this so I'm still a little morose and not sure what to do next.
 
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