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I, fortunately, have no experience with bent valves. But let me pass along a couple things I've heard/ learned on this board:
1) Someone recently had starting issues and ran a compression test and came close to your results. His ester or method was bad, and his compression actually was fine.
2) In all the posts I've seen where valves were bent due to timing (belt) issues, it was not all cylinders, usually 2 or 3 (count, not cyl. #).

Not saying it can't be, but I'd be looking to verify before tearing apart.
 

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Yes, six new coils with the NGK irridium plugs that are all connected plugged up and tightened down.
Ok, but test that you are getting a spark.

Don't give up yet!
 

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Just to be sure, when you are doing the compression test, ALL plugs are out, and you crank about 5 chugs worth per cylinder?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Ok no i didn't do anywhere near that many turns. Just 2 or 3 total. And yes i had all the plugs out but on the second go around when i re testedi only had one out
 

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A compression test is good to rule out damage but you didn’t break a belt so there shouldn’t be damage. If it were me I would hand turn that motor clockwise until the crank lines up and double check that the cams are perfect
Also since it was running last what have you replaced or had disconnected? Any check engine lights?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I replaced both cam seals and the crank seal as well as the gasket on the oil filter housing. Replacing the cam seals is where it all went south because when i was re installing the sprocket it slipped. That was the only big snafu im aware of but everything seemed to reset smoothly. As fas as disconnected. I took out the computer to get the motor mount off and prettymuch everything on that rear harness to free up space.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
As far as codes, i had the battery disconnected so that reset all stored Codes and its not starting to get any new ones. I have a decent scanner with live data and some other stuff I'm not really sure how to use.But once again without it running everything reads zero
 

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I'm wondering if you had the plugs in while replacing the cam seals. The rear cam is more prone to jumping when the plugs are installed with compression in the cylinders. One other tip is to complete the install of the timing belt so everything is linked together, with cam sprocket bolts installed but not torqued. Then you go and torque down the cam sprocket bolts, with sprocket holding tool, if you do slip, everything moves in unison and the engine does not get out of time.

But in all honesty, you should never need to replace the cam seals. There is a guy over at driveaccord.net with nearly 800k miles on his 07 Accord V6, he never replaced the cam seals and there is no leak. I don't have cam seal leaks either at 325k miles. The things that leak once you get over 200k miles are oil pump, possibly rear main seal, and the vtec rocker assembly seal. The seal that leaks the most is the oil pump. This goes back to the saying, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. And you need to know when to throw in the towel, spend a little more and have a shop with experience finish it, not "keep trying and don't give up." You aren't giving up, just need a little help.
 

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It is impossible to damage valves in every cylinder just because your rear camshaft jumped. There is something else happened. Check timing again.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Okay so here's the question is it possible that I put the crank pulley or sprocket really on upside down. I understand there's two marks on the crank Spike at the one at top dead center and the other the opposite of that and I have those correct unless maybe when I replace the crank seal or Cam seals I know they're all keyed so they they only go in one way correct or could they go in two ways I'm just trying to see where the mistake could be because the timing is lined up perfect.
 

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I just did my niece's WP & TB, etc. on an '04 Elantra. Simple, straightforward, only one cam sprocket. Had things lined up, marked belt and sprockets, transferred marks to new belt. Everything went flawlessly.

AND YET....when I looked at the marks, I was questioning whether things were properly aligned. After mulling over for about 15 minute, remembered I had to be looking straight on, with my eyeball in line with the center line of the cam/crank, to see that the cast in marks were spot on. Especially true on the Hyundai engine because, while the cam was "foolproof" with a look-thru hole and spot alignment at 12 o'clock, the crank was more common mark-to-mark but at 11 o'clock, meaning looking from above introduced error. I had to all but lay down on my belly to get eye in line.

Flip that around, and it tells me that the marks can look good when they are not, especially if you find yourself "rounding" between notches. And the rear cam on a V-6 can be awfully tough to get yourself into the right position to align your eyeball. Perhaps a smartphone camera can get into the right position and help confirm?
 

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I was reminded of a car from long ago. I had a VW beetle motor that I got as a trade and had receipts for lots of expensive work on it. It didn't run and after breaking it down and considering every option, I checked the camshaft. The sprocket was installed with three bolts. The camshaft was incorrectly bolted on and off by 120 degrees. It was the last thing I would suspect because I had never taken a cam sprocket off. In that car there was no need, but it probably arrived new in two pieces.

The Odyssey has a single cam bolt, and therefore must have a key or pin of some sort so it can only go on one way. Any chance the sprockets might have been interchanged? I would imagine the parts have different markings.
 

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Okay so here's the question is it possible that I put the crank pulley or sprocket really on upside down. I understand there's two marks on the crank Spike at the one at top dead center and the other the opposite of that and I have those correct unless maybe when I replace the crank seal or Cam seals I know they're all keyed so they they only go in one way correct or could they go in two ways I'm just trying to see where the mistake could be because the timing is lined up perfect.
It is hard to tell now what you did wrong. But your first post was describing a normal thing - rear camshaft jumped, all you had to do is turn it back to correct position, and continue your work. Same thing happened to me at least a few times, and there was no "disaster", no bent valves whatsoever.
What you have now looks like bent valves in every cylinder, assuming your compression gauge works properly. Frontporch suggested cam sprockets been interchanged, might be it.
 
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Discussion Starter #35
So in the interest of full disclosure I promise I will tell you guys the truth if that is it but good Lord I hope that isn't cuz that would be very embarrassing however it's kind of looking like at this point no matter what the solution is it's going to be embarrassing but I will take this time to thank everybody for all your help because you've always definitely given me things to look for so I'm doing that now I'm also checking ground 101 because on my scanner when I would hook it up it does a I am readiness test and there's a lot of things that just don't read for whatever reason EGR I think 02 and a couple others I can't remember off the top of my head right now but they all seem to have the same ground in common and it's the same ground the ignition coils have so I'm checking that now and I will keep everybody posted
 

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Discussion Starter #36
One other question on one of the videos I was watching trying to discover where I screwed up at there's a possibility that I installed the washer on the crank pulley backwards cupped in instead of out does that really matter?
 

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One other question on one of the videos I was watching trying to discover where I screwed up at there's a possibility that I installed the washer on the crank pulley backwards cupped in instead of out does that really matter?
Good question. Try making it right and tell us if it makes a diff. You are the experimental test case, it would appear.
 

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- It's not possible to install the crank pulley and the cam sprockets upside down, they are keyed and they go on one way. If engine is in time, then pulley and sprockets come off and go back on, engine is still in time. If rear cam jumped and rotated, you must rotate backwards in the opposite direction and not spin it all the way around. Spinning the sprocket all the way around will cause the valve train to hit the piston tops.

- The washer for the crank gear should face out. That washer is there to contain the belt so it does not move around on the crankshaft. If it's installed facing in, it would still have no bearing on what happened to your engine.

You have to ask yourself and try to recall what were you doing you put on the cam sprocket.
 
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