Honda Odyssey Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I used to work on all my cars and very familiar on how to do basic maintenance. My questions is ive heard rumors that changing brake pads on cars with abs brakes arent performed the same way. Anyone out there shed some light or if that statement even correct. I did have a car that i performed back brakes on once and noticed you cant squeeze calipers in on it you had to kinda screw down if that makes sense. If that the reason abs brakes are different? I need to get my front pads dont on my odyssey and being its the family car i dont want any mistakes. Also do the parts stores still do rotor shaving like they used to back in the day?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
349 Posts
Woo, I'll save dv, post and and strongly encourage you to do a searh as there is very good step by step instructiuons on how to change your brake pads on this site. ABS or non ABS brakes are fundamentally done the same way. Self adjusting rear calipers as you describe above have noting to do with ABS, they are just a different type of caliper. Parts stores do still turn rotors you will just have to call around in your area but you may end up buying new rotors as well as pads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I know how to change brake pads. My question is was there anything i need to look out for that's different then how brakes used to be done before abs was introduced to cars?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
176 Posts
I know how to change brake pads. My question is was there anything i need to look out for that's different then how brakes used to be done before abs was introduced to cars?
98% of the time no they are done the same way, on the Honda Odyssey there is nothing abnormal.

The self adjusting calipers are primarily only on the rear and are auctually designed as part of the Parking Brake system , I dont think Honda's use this but not 100%.

I'd advise refinishing your factory rotors untill they are too thin (spec) or replace with quality rotors. Dont buy cheap economy rotors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
194 Posts
There is a difference. But many still do the same old traditional way for both types. The difference is to do with compressing the caliper before you insert the new pads. In the old non abs system, you can just use a c-clamp and compress the caliper and this will push all the fluid up back into the brake fluid reservoir. For ABS systems, it is recommended that you pinch off the brake line, then open the bleeder screw, then use C-clamp to press in the caliper. This method will prevent the fluid pushing back up the ABS system, and instead bleed it out of the bleeder screw. Then close the bleeder screw and release the pinched brake line. This method is preferred because it allows you to bleed out some of the old fluid, but you need to top off the reservoir to the correct level.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
176 Posts
There is a difference. But many still do the same old traditional way for both types. The difference is to do with compressing the caliper before you insert the new pads. In the old non abs system, you can just use a c-clamp and compress the caliper and this will push all the fluid up back into the brake fluid reservoir. For ABS systems, it is recommended that you pinch off the brake line, then open the bleeder screw, then use C-clamp to press in the caliper. This method will prevent the fluid pushing back up the ABS system, and instead bleed it out of the bleeder screw. Then close the bleeder screw and release the pinched brake line. This method is preferred because it allows you to bleed out some of the old fluid, but you need to top off the reservoir to the correct level.
15-20 years ago there was quite concern from the manufactures about squeeze back procedures as you indicate they didn't want the fluid being pushed back up the system. I've found that ABS systems auctually have the fluid break down faster than non ABS brakes, I also have noticed that the Master Cyl fluid gets darker (dirt) faster than the conventional. which means there is more dirt working its way through the entire system.

I will say that I am a firm believer in checking the fluid for both Copper and moisture along with regular flushes

And anything but a caliper push back tool and moderate pressure can cause damage, Visegrips or pliers can damage Pistons and/or seals

Al
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Do not open the system, do not pinch off the breakline (may damage the line) Do it the same was as always. C-Clamp the front calipers. On back you will need to remove the adjusting bar. But then its the same as always. No prob. It takes me 1hr to do all 4
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top